Add parking sensor to '04 F-150?
#1
Add parking sensor to '04 F-150?
I have a 2004 F-150 Supercrew Lariat. It did not come with the parking sensor option, that is, the system that provides an audible alert to objects at the rear of the truck.
Does anyone know if it is possible or practical to add the Ford system to the truck, after delivery? Any idea about cost?
I'm having some problems with electrical systems and don't want to go third-party products unless I have them installed by the dealer. They have failed to solve my door sensor problems in two trips, though the alarm system no longer goes off when the vehicle is sitting in my driveway (g). A complication is the Lojack alarm I had installed, but that was done at the dealer's, so Im trying to keep my changes to what I can have the dealer do. Right now, the open driver's door does not turn the radio off, as it should. they probably need to replace that door sensor (again).
Thanks for any ideas or info on the parking sesor/backup system.
-- Jim
Does anyone know if it is possible or practical to add the Ford system to the truck, after delivery? Any idea about cost?
I'm having some problems with electrical systems and don't want to go third-party products unless I have them installed by the dealer. They have failed to solve my door sensor problems in two trips, though the alarm system no longer goes off when the vehicle is sitting in my driveway (g). A complication is the Lojack alarm I had installed, but that was done at the dealer's, so Im trying to keep my changes to what I can have the dealer do. Right now, the open driver's door does not turn the radio off, as it should. they probably need to replace that door sensor (again).
Thanks for any ideas or info on the parking sesor/backup system.
-- Jim
#2
I fully understand about 'tampering' with the stock electrical system.
You might want to go to a small shop that does stereos, etc. where they can install a simple backup alarm system.
If properly installed, with one wire attached to your backup light wire, it will not 'interface' with any electrical part. If you do it that way there is no way it could interfere with stock, or even allow a poor service writer to claim it does.
If you put in the factory alert, it interfaces under the dash, and requires that you have the correct harness, (you probably do,) and that they open your dash, thus adding to the complication.
I added one to my truck in about twenty minutes, most of that time adjusting it to the level of sensitivity I wanted. No possibility of it causing problems with any other system.
Best of luck,
Chris
You might want to go to a small shop that does stereos, etc. where they can install a simple backup alarm system.
If properly installed, with one wire attached to your backup light wire, it will not 'interface' with any electrical part. If you do it that way there is no way it could interfere with stock, or even allow a poor service writer to claim it does.
If you put in the factory alert, it interfaces under the dash, and requires that you have the correct harness, (you probably do,) and that they open your dash, thus adding to the complication.
I added one to my truck in about twenty minutes, most of that time adjusting it to the level of sensitivity I wanted. No possibility of it causing problems with any other system.
Best of luck,
Chris
#3
I'm not sure why you would want the dealership installing things on your truck when they obviously didn't do the last job correctly.
Chris is right. Find a good aftermarket unit and splice it in to the reverse lights and find a ground location. Easy as pie. I just installed a 4 sensor unit on my Expedition. You can't really tell it is any different for a stock setup.
Chris is right. Find a good aftermarket unit and splice it in to the reverse lights and find a ground location. Easy as pie. I just installed a 4 sensor unit on my Expedition. You can't really tell it is any different for a stock setup.
#4
Jim: Just a small point of information. I am going to install a sensor this weekend myself and going to utilize my round trailer plug and connect to it with slip on connectors to get the reverse power source and ground.
That way if there is any issues with factory wiring you can unplug it and there has been no permanent tie in.
That way if there is any issues with factory wiring you can unplug it and there has been no permanent tie in.
#6
Tank: went with the Autopark 2000- simple to install, in-expensive reg 59-69 dollars but can be had for a lot less by shopping on web. Tried to tell you where to get it but the prompt when I sent it told me I could not name the web site. Sorry Do not want to violate the rules of this site and not sure how to e- mail it direct to you.
#7
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#9
About the autopark... I have one on my truck, I have another, brand new, on the bench.
Not so good.
Super easy to install, not too good in use. If anyone steps up on your bumper, It's goodby to autopark.
It also won't 'notice' a ten inch steel pole that's about to kill your bumper, if it's on a corner.
Finally, sometimes it does not work. No particular reason. Maybe it's not in the mood.
Now the good part. It couldn't be easier to install. If you have almost normal hearing, don't even run the speaker into the cab. Put it under the bed. Makes for a five minute install.
The other good part, is if you have the beeper in the back, it makes enough racket that people get out of your way in parking lots.
When it works.
Chris
Not so good.
Super easy to install, not too good in use. If anyone steps up on your bumper, It's goodby to autopark.
It also won't 'notice' a ten inch steel pole that's about to kill your bumper, if it's on a corner.
Finally, sometimes it does not work. No particular reason. Maybe it's not in the mood.
Now the good part. It couldn't be easier to install. If you have almost normal hearing, don't even run the speaker into the cab. Put it under the bed. Makes for a five minute install.
The other good part, is if you have the beeper in the back, it makes enough racket that people get out of your way in parking lots.
When it works.
Chris
#10
#11
Sorry, my wife's Nikon bit the dust, Zoom toggle broke inside. I may fix it tonight, if I do I'll post a pic.
The autopark you bolt to the license plate bottom. Looks good, don't step on it if you climb up on your to reach over your tailgate.
There is an adjustment for sensitivity. It makes two different sounds, fast and faster when something is closer.
It makes a distinct sound when you put it in gear, quite loud. As I say, outside mounting works for me.
I bought two, planning on putting the second one under the front to watch for parking blocks. Seemed like a good idea. I removed them from the sturdy packing and tested them both on the bench. They worked great. I put one on the back of the truck and while it screamed it's little head off about my other cars, and the garage door, it ignored my wrought iron power gate. Couldn't 'see' it from three feet. Reacted to pedestrians, usually. The other night a rather portly woman didn't set it off from six feet behind me. But the chirp when I put it in reverse caught her attention and she got the heck out of the way. I never bothered to put on the other one, since I decided to put a front and back camera in. (still being shipped, will post results on that when it's installed).
The autopark is a neat, cheap, elegant solution. The one I mounted just isn't reliable enough to trust, and while I could swap it for the one on the bench, well, I don't care that much since I'm going video.
Chris
The autopark you bolt to the license plate bottom. Looks good, don't step on it if you climb up on your to reach over your tailgate.
There is an adjustment for sensitivity. It makes two different sounds, fast and faster when something is closer.
It makes a distinct sound when you put it in gear, quite loud. As I say, outside mounting works for me.
I bought two, planning on putting the second one under the front to watch for parking blocks. Seemed like a good idea. I removed them from the sturdy packing and tested them both on the bench. They worked great. I put one on the back of the truck and while it screamed it's little head off about my other cars, and the garage door, it ignored my wrought iron power gate. Couldn't 'see' it from three feet. Reacted to pedestrians, usually. The other night a rather portly woman didn't set it off from six feet behind me. But the chirp when I put it in reverse caught her attention and she got the heck out of the way. I never bothered to put on the other one, since I decided to put a front and back camera in. (still being shipped, will post results on that when it's installed).
The autopark is a neat, cheap, elegant solution. The one I mounted just isn't reliable enough to trust, and while I could swap it for the one on the bench, well, I don't care that much since I'm going video.
Chris
#12
#13
Monitor isn't here yet. I bought a Tview TM72sl a couple months ago, that's a seven inch color monitor, usually attached on the back of a headrest to let the kids watch dvds. Couldn't find a cool place to put it. Wasn't going to lay it face up on the floor, or put it in my folding console. Has three ways to mount it, none seemed right. So I tossed it aside, to sell on e-bay or whatever, and ordered a
In dash 703L 7 inch in dash TFT lcd from some company in Canada. I also ordered a two single din face plate to replace the single din that I have my Kenwood installed in. Not crazy about mounting the Kenwood and the monitor toghther, but Crutchfield, where I bought the mount, says it will work.
I also ordered a couple of cameras, one for the rear bumper, another for the front, down under the dam, so I can watch concrete bumpers sneak up on my wheels. Here abouts there is no curb parking, and the concrete bumpers and limit pipes are not even close to standard. Most people just ram the concrete blocks or listen for the 'tink' as your front bumper hits a pole. No thanks.
The problem is 'mission creep'. I started out to only spend about 100.00 on this job. The monitor set me back 70.00, and one camera is 30.00. But since I had to get the 'in-dash' monitor, about 160.00 and decided to add two cameras, 30+50, plus about 20 for the two din mount, without laying an inch of wire I'm out 270.00 plus the wasted money on the Tview and the two autoparks. Ouch.
Then, if I want to add DVD, (I don't) thats probably another 100-125.
Oh well, all my other mods came in under budget, I guess I can blow this one.
Fixed my wife's Nikon today ( zoom switch busted inside, had to use a little epoxy) so I will take a shot of the autopark installed, and as soon as I have the video in I will get her to shoot that.
Chris
In dash 703L 7 inch in dash TFT lcd from some company in Canada. I also ordered a two single din face plate to replace the single din that I have my Kenwood installed in. Not crazy about mounting the Kenwood and the monitor toghther, but Crutchfield, where I bought the mount, says it will work.
I also ordered a couple of cameras, one for the rear bumper, another for the front, down under the dam, so I can watch concrete bumpers sneak up on my wheels. Here abouts there is no curb parking, and the concrete bumpers and limit pipes are not even close to standard. Most people just ram the concrete blocks or listen for the 'tink' as your front bumper hits a pole. No thanks.
The problem is 'mission creep'. I started out to only spend about 100.00 on this job. The monitor set me back 70.00, and one camera is 30.00. But since I had to get the 'in-dash' monitor, about 160.00 and decided to add two cameras, 30+50, plus about 20 for the two din mount, without laying an inch of wire I'm out 270.00 plus the wasted money on the Tview and the two autoparks. Ouch.
Then, if I want to add DVD, (I don't) thats probably another 100-125.
Oh well, all my other mods came in under budget, I guess I can blow this one.
Fixed my wife's Nikon today ( zoom switch busted inside, had to use a little epoxy) so I will take a shot of the autopark installed, and as soon as I have the video in I will get her to shoot that.
Chris
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