You have all been so helpful and yet I am still incapable of changing out my DPFE sensor. I finally tracked down a DPFE sensor for my 00 Ranger XLT (2.5L). Started to pull the old one off after disconnecting the battery. Ran into a spot of trouble however when I found I simply could not get the darn vacuum hoses off! It's almost as though they are melted onto the DPFE. I tried pulling one off with a screwdriver and succeeded in tearing it but still couldn't get it all the way off. Any suggestions? I am considering cutting them off if there is enough length to still attach to the new sensor, but thought there might be a better suggestion than that... Again, my thanks to all.

Heather

 

If you are talking about the hoses that run from the DPFE to the exhaust manifold, they are not actually rubber vacuum hoses. Since they see very hot temps, they are a special high temp hose to handle the heat. You should consider buying new hoses to replace them along with the DPFE.

 

Anybody know where you can buy those hoses? Mine are looking ratty. The 2.3 motor is known for gumming up the EGR valve and I plan to take it off and clean it (second time I've done this) soon. You can clean it if you're careful not to get solvent on the diaphram that holds the vaccum inside the EGR valve. While it's off you can test it to make sure it is closing (no air going by) and opening (allowing air to flow). Using a the proper vacuum pump works and also allows you to see if the EGR will hold a vacuum for a length of time. There is another trick, but get your wife or girlfriend to help as it won't look right with two guys doing it. While one person sucks on the tiny vaccuum port the other person should be able to blow air through the main port, and not when no vaccum is present on the tiny port. I also take off the EGR tube to the exhaust and clean the carbon out of that. Might as well replace those two "rubber" hoses while I'm at it but I need to find the proper material. About ready to do a complete throttle body cleaning again. The throttle body comes off easy (4 bolts, unplug the throttle cable, unplug the TPS sensor and IAC). You'll be real surprised how much carbon is in there on both ends. The IAC can also be cleaned by removing it. Also, look in the hole that the IAC hitches up to. It's really just a big square air box that allows air to bypass the butterfly at idle via a smaller hole. Tons of carbon in there too. Replace any gaskets on this stuff that looks like it won't re-seal. By the way, anybody know if you can use RTV copper silicone to re-seal the EGR, IAC, or etc if the gasket is too bad?

 

Just a tip on removing hoses in general, always try to twist them first, it can make it much easier than just pulling/prying them.

 

Spraying the ends of the hoses on the DPFE fittings with penetrating oil is also a good trick. Let it work in for a little while, just like a stuck nut or bolt.

I agree, if the hoses are torn, cracked, brittle, etc. you should think about getting new ones. At least make sure you cut the ends off the old ones so you have some decent ends to put back on the fittings.

Critter, I would look to craft my own gaskets, rather than spread silicone sealer around the IAC and EGR. Autoparts stores sell small packages containing "sheets" of various gasket materials and thicknesses, out of which you can cut your own...

 

Yea, cutting off the ends of various hoses is a good trick. In fact, I don't think I've ever replaced (I might have at one time) the radiator or heater core hoses on my 94 2.3l with 240,000 miles on it. I have, however, cut off the ends of them one time when I replaced the water pump. Hoses mostly get bad where they are clamped. Not that this is a good idea, hoses are cheap. At one time I did replace the hoses for the PCV valve as they were gettings stiff and not making a good seal. Also, those PCV hoses are known to slip off he PCV the way it sits by the right side of the motor, so even with the new ones I used hose clamps to secure them to the PCV valve. Another "cut the hose" trick works well with the overflow hose for the radiator. That little cheap hose will kink a hole in it's self right where it slides onto the radiator overfill line right next to the radiator cap. If you've got a hole in this hose the radiator won't be able to suck fluid from the overflow should it get low. Not good. I'll check the prices on new gaskets that are made for the IAC, EGR, and intake where with hitches up to the manifold. If they are too high I'll probably fabricate like you said. The last time I cleaned the EGR I used copper silicone, but I always was iffy about that. The throttle body to intake gasket on a buddies truck (same year, same motor) was in good shape so we re-used it. We had to replace the TPS sensor on his motor and it was impossible to get the two little screws off it to remove it without taking off the throttle body, which luckily is a ten minute job. We still couldn't remove the screws so we took a propane torch and melted the TPS's plastic body away around the screws, then grabbed them with pliers to break them loose. If anybody does this watch out that you don't really melt the TPS away bad. It turned out that the butterfly had a plastic slot on the end of it that the TPS fitted into so it would turn with it. Luckily his didn't melt away since there is an air gap around it and that plastic is meant to take some heat. I don't know about anybody else but I use never seize on all bolts and nuts that I take off on a project, so the next time there is less chance of stripping or breaking a bolt or nut. PB Blaster is great for getting things loose if you can't get something to move. This stuff is magnetic and will climb into threads and such. Much better than Liquid Wrench but it smells real bad.