I have a 1966 Ford F100 currently with a Ford 390 in it. I want to change it to a 460. (looking for more power) Can anyone tell me what changes i am going to have to make, or were I can get the motor mts to do this swap. Will the engine mts form a '68 model fit?? Also what about headers, what year will I need. this is all for a 1966 Ford F100 two wheel drive.

 

I have a 73 F 100 that had a 390 in it. I pulled it out to put a 460 in. You will need the engine stands from a 74 to a 79 F 100 to F 350 that is 2 wheel drive. You will need either a 351m/ 400 or 460 bell housing for a standard, or a c6 for the same. You will need a radiator. Make sure you get all the brackets and pulleys for the accesories you want to run with the engine. I'm not sure about headers, but exhaust manifolds must come from either a truck or a van. Car manifolds will not work. By the way...I live in Waco, so I'm not far from you. Feel free to email if you have any more questions. I know that the 74 to 79 stuff will interchange, because I have one friend with a 65, and another with a 67 that made this swap. 74 to 79 is a direct bolt in.

 

Polcat. . .
Good choice man! I've run several 460s myself & I've installed many in "client builds" I have done over the years. 2 points of caution for ya'. . . .

1 There's street builds and there's competition builds and they are NOT the Same. Street engines do BEST when they turn 5200 or less RPM after 5200 they do not flow well without radical modification & Hi Per specialty parts. If you are not going to build the engine as a comp engine, don't bother with the headers.

2 Do not half build nor "over" build street engines. Either "Blue Print" and tweak what the OEM gave us to work with by dialing it all in in relatively stock trim, or go for the really big bucks and build a comp package. In between street & comp is a limbo or no mans land. . .

I agree with Docholidays' assessment, but with some additional ideas. . .

You can run a Passenger car cast iron manifold on the driver side, it works fine, BUT as he said you must run a truck exhaust manifold on right side because Passenger car manifold exits into frame at an angle which is impossible to connect anything to. Using the factory cast iron manifolds provides more back pressure in the exhaust and I think 460s run better with correct back pressure than without it. My "Slick shows a clear & direct los of performance with a high rise Intake manifild & headers of nearly .5 sec ET in the 1/4 mile. I have a "Street Engine" in a Street Truck.

FoMoCo made a C5 transmission which is a truck & van version of the C4 that has a bellhousing which is NOT the front pump cover (as it would be with C4). IOW there are 2 circles of bolts instead of 1 (like C4 has). By using 351M/400 C5 bell housing on any C5 transmission,(C5s came on any engine FoMoCo put in Trucks & Vans from around 74-79) or getting a C5 from 78-9 351M or 351M/400 Van or F series you can use this lighter more efficient A/T. I had a C6 at 1st, but swapped it for a better C5 in my '66 460 powered F100 SWB/CC.

You can use the prescribed "truck" engine frame stands, mounts & insulators like Doc said, that is the set up I prefer, but they're big bucks new at FoMoCo parts counter & getting harder to find in salvage yards. I prefer the OEM set up because they're cross bolted and even if the insulators shred or rip apart then engine WILL NOT ROLL OVER in your engine bay. . . .period!

I'm almost finished. . . I reccommend you add a crankcase "bung" or drain hole & plug in lower rear portion of oil pans' front sump on your 460 if it's a passenger car engine. If not you don't when you go to drain & change you're oil you will wish you had added a rear drain because the Passenger car pan ends up with the drain in the center of that wide F series engine X member. . . . oil cacades all ovet the place, you got to make a drain trough or gutter so you don't bateh the chasis and your shop in dirty engine oil and all that, plus you can't get your hand or a wrench in there hardly. . .
You could buy a truck pan but I'm tellin' ya the best "fix" above. Last I heard New Pans @ FoMoCo were $220 or something like that. . . .

You can buy installation parts or Kits for this swap. They're available from a Texas Company, L & L Products which I believe is http://www.landlproducts.com

If you want/need to know more E-mail me I'll be glad to share with ya. There'a a lot more details & other "little things" you may care to know or discuss. . . . Like timing in specific year engines or use of X or H type equalizers & how they affect reversion and so forth. Also which engine you have makes a big difference in what you should/can do and what it will req' to maximize it's performance parameters.
FWIW I squeeze 17 O.A./Avg mpg from 460 my own F100 has, it also runs legitimate 12.6s @ large MPH @ Sanctioned, NHRA, 1/4 Mile Venue. Blow Ties & 'Stangs hate me.

FBp. . . .

 

Hey guys thanks for the info that realy helps. I have a pretty radical 390 I am runnig right know just have to finish with gettting ahead repaired after accidentally porting through a water jacket. I am looking at building into a competititon engine and barely street legal. Probably get it up to around 500cubic inch. I got a stout driveline right know(yeah I know I need a new c-6 to fit the 460), just looking into the future to start saving and putting this together. I have to pretty much get the engine and drive train. the only accessory i will be running will be the the alternator. I have a electric water pump drive that I can use. Hey doc if you know anyone getting rid of a 460 cheap let me know?? I probably won't start this project tell later this year wanna get a few runs on my 390, looking to build a engine to get around 700hp!! I am only getting 450hp out of my 390, just will take to much to get 600hp out a 390 and to expensive to build a 427 so I have decided to change

 

Ford Boy Pete, In your opinion what is a good recipe for a street 460? I have a 73 swb F 100. I'm running a c6 with 3L00 rear gears. With the high gears in the rear, I would like to build my engine for low RPM's. I don't do any towing, and very little hauling. I currently have headers on mine, but I have a set of van manifolds in the garage. I have dual 2 1/2" pipes and flowmaster 40 series mufflers. I installed a dura spark distributor and I have an msd ignition module. The engine and tranny came from an 83 model van and is bone stock as far as I know. I am thinking about getting some 68 model 429 heads and installing the straight up timing chain and gears with an rv cam. What do you think?
Pol Cat, there is a wrecking yard near me that has a 74 model F 150 with a 460 and c6 in it. It would have the engine stands and every thing you need. Want me to find out what they're asking?

 

Hey that would be great if you could, if it an't to much I might beable to do something let me know!! thanks!!

 

hey guy i just put a 460 in my 66 and i run into the problem with engine mounts i had to buy engine mounts through jeg and they got them through a company named trans adapt they required a little drilling but they are by far one good investment good luck to ya

 

I have a 66 f100, and can purchase a 96 f250 with a 460 c6 I would like to install this motor tranny in my 66 is this a ok year donor vehicle for my swap.

 

The motor will fit on the early correct ford 3 piece set or and aftermarket set.

The 96 is EFI and will not convert to carb without a head and intake change or an adaptor to mate a carb to the EFI lower intake.

Is the donor truck and automatic?

Garbz

 

It is an automatic trans, That brings more questions, I plan on running aluminum heads intale and a carb on the motor. will the tranny shift without the computer fron the 96.