Mine are worn and need to be replaced. Has anyone done this job. If so how did you get the old bushings off? My book says to take basically the fron end off and move forward. My shop has done it by taking off the rivets and bolts attaching the cross memeber. Any suggestions would be of help.

Dennis

 

I ground the rivets off and replaced with grade 8 bolts when putting the brackets back on. Biggest piece of advice is when you are putting it all back together, only hand tighten the bolts until both brackets are back in place and all of the bolts are back in. Grinding the rivets took about a week (only did one or two a day when working from home at lunch time). After all of the rivets were ground off, replacing the bushings didn't take long at all (less than an hour).

Good luck!

Matt

 

I just removed the nut from the arm and cut the bushing out. Then placed the new bushing I bought from pep boys in a vice and cut a 1" V out of it. Sprayed the area with WD-40 and pounded it in place. This is a crude way of doing it but I was tired of hearing the banging of a worn bushing. It has been about a year now and the drivers side is starting to make the same noise as before...so It should last a year if you do it this way.

 

That's an option, and the bushings are cheap enough that it won't break the bank. I did mine (a 94) last summer and instead of using rubber, I used poly bushings, so mine should last AT LEAST the next 10 years. I'd rather do it once and be done with it...

 

Explorer 1994 Radius Arm Bushing

Just finished, here is how I did it:

1. Jack up car, place jack stands under frame on both sides; remove tire, brake caliper (hold up with an old coat hanger not by the hose), lower shock bolt on the side on which you are working; undo sway bar bushing mounts on both sides, let hang.

2. Use a torch to heat the bolt/nut combo, spray with penetrating oil, remove nut. (If you don't do this the oxidation on the threads might just ruin any chance of fitting the nut back on.) Keep a spray bottle of water handy as the rubber does burn. Ventilate for your own health. Driver's side is right under the fuel lines and filter or pump AND near the front drive shaft rubber boot. Use a piece of flashing to protect from heat. Passenger side is right next to the y-pipe so heat isn't an issue replacing but the heat probably caused your passenger side to fail before the driver's side.

3. Use a come-along (cable winch) wrapped around axle support outboard from spring to pull assembly forward. Attach other end to frame near bumper. Use floor jack under axle support to adjust level, radius arm should pull out of rear bracket. Note that I did not remove the spring mount.

4. Getting the radius arm back in is a PITA. A second come-along between the two radius (radii? ;-p) arms will help pull the end inboard toward the hole as it probably shifted outboard when removed. Remember the second radius arm is still installed. Get it lined up, release tension on first come-along and radius arm should go back in hole.

5. Remove come-alongs. Take one of them and attach to the front axle assembly (possibly where the radius arm meets the assembly there will be room) and hook to frame towards rear. Use the come-along to pull the radius arm fully into the hole and compress the front bushing. Now install the rear sleeve, bushing, washer, and nut. Tighten. Look for thread damage before placing nut on shaft. Fix any thread damage before you mess it up.

6. do the other side in a similar manner.

7. Fashion a heat shield out of steel flashing for the passenger side to keep the blasted heat from ruining your new bushing.

8. Drink a few.

Good luck,
Mike

PS Whole job took me about 4 hours in the garage and part of that was running to two friends' houses to get two come-alongs.

BTW, the nut on my 94 Exploder is a 1 1/8". Be careful with an impact as the threads on mine were really rusted. Removing the nut without heat may damage the threads on the arm and that would not be fun to replace.

 

I think cutting the rivets and replacing with bolts is the best solution, especially if you use standard replacement bushings. YOU WILL BE DOING IT AGAIN LATER!!! I cut the rivets with a sharp chisel and large hammer. Not too bad considering all else.

The poly replacements are a good idea too. Mine are 4 years old now and showing no signs of wear at all.
Dialtone

 

Where did you get the poly replacement bushings?

 

I picked mine up at Auto Zone. Now I just have to install the darn things!

 

Pep boys. $12 total.