This is about the second time or so that i've posted, but anyway I want to replace the U-Joints on the TTB axle shafts. But I'm not sure if its possible... So my question of course is it possible or does the whole axle shaft assembly have to be replaced?

 

Yep you can. buy a hanynes or chilton manual for your bronco and year model. then you got instructions.

 

I've already got the Hayens manuel but I didn't see anything that told me how to do the U-Joints... do they have snap rings on the outer side, or do i just beat one side out and then the other? I know how to get the axle shafts out but its just getting the U-Joints out that I am concerned with.

 

They can be stubborn to remove. The locking clips are internal and are hard to see if you have tons of rust like I did. Remove the clips and place the yoke ears between the open jaws in the vice and hammer down on the other yoke to pound the caps out one at a time. This method has worked well for me to remove ujoints. I did however run into a major rust problem in which I could not remove the caps once pounded out, (totally rusted to bearings and spider journal) had to grind flat spots on cap place in vice and use a 3 foot pipe on another spider journal and work PB Blaster in while rotating to remove.

Alternate method is to use a 3 in 1 ball joint ujoint tool to press out. You can rent for free at Autozone.

Rust never sleeps. You can do it, Good Luck

 

Another alternate method that is super quick is the nice friendly torch. Used it on my drive shafts and had them out in 2 seconds. Just cut the middle out then tap the ends out.

 

Also, Think about upgrading the U-joints to something like CTM at http://ctmracing.com/ or ones from OX. I don't have web site for them but here is a picture

 

DAMN!!! Thats Bad ***... also i was reading in Four wheeler off road and they have some kind of new axle thats all space age looking and i wanted to upgrade to that i just don't know where to get it

 

Is the TTB A Dana 55 or something or is it a 60?

 

Stock TTB in a bronco is Dana 44. The best option for the Dana 44 stock type carriers is the spicer 5-760x ujoints which are a direct replacement for the 5-297
joints that came in it. They are $20 each vs.$185 each for the CTM. Multiply that times 3 and that is $60 vs almost $600.

 

And then you would multiply that $60 by how many times you break those week links, which will ultimately end up to about the same as the one time price of the $600 set of good U-Joints. I have thought about going the cheap route and buy those $20 parts, BUT My Atlas II transfer case and KluneV under drive unit will eat them alive.

 

The inner axle shaft on the stock TTB axles will break before the CTM ujoints especially if the D44 diff is locked. Then the Hub or knuckle would be the thing to go if you had custom axles made. Anyway, the Spicer 5-760x aren't as likely to break in an open Dana 44 or with a LS anyway. Plus if you don't grease those CTMs every 1000 miles, they will have to be rebuilt. You could put an inner slip shaft from a Dana 50 in it and eliminate the c-clip using a spring between the shafts. I don't have any experience with the Ox joints but I haven't heard anyone that has used them that likes them.

Tite4x4, what tranny are you using with the Klune V? How did the drive shaft length workout?

 

That's why I'm waiting until ARB comes out with thier 35 Spline Air Locker, and then have the custom axles made to fit. Then I'll work on the hubs and knuckles, when I cross that road. Bassically I'm trying to prevent future breakage. But nothing is full proof. Granted even the strongest of parts can break.

I have the E4OD tranny, that I'm about ready to rebuild with all the updated heavy duty parts installed. The previous shops that had rebuilt it for me in the past did not take this into consideration. They could be built to handle all the torque & HP that I have.

The new custom drive shafts worked out perfect after the installation of Atlas II/KluneV. The front was about 3" longer and the rear was about 3" shorter than the stock shafts. I had upgraded the U-joints to 1350 and the rear shaft is of the 1 ton veriaty, and the front has thicker wall material. Guy at Tom woods had assured me that this would be just fine for what I have.

BTW rlh - What don't those people like about the OX U-Joints?

 

Tite4x4, one concern is that Ox has been close to bankruptcy and support for their lockers etc. is questionable. There also have been concerns about the materials that the lockers are made of. Do some good detective work before deciding to go with them.

 

BTW - I am not planning on getting thier locker. That's why I mentioned ARB air locker earlyer. but thanks

 

Yeah, I understand why you are waiting on the ARB 44/35 to be released. Those are intriguing!