98 Ranger Lower Ball Joint questions
#1
98 Ranger Lower Ball Joint questions
I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 with a sqeaky passenger front end. I determined it is coming from the lower ball joint. I placed a screwdriver on the various components and listened to the creak, the lower ball joint is loudest. Although the ball joint looks solid when I try and move the tire to determine play. After doing some reading on the forum it doesn't look like a nice job.
I was wondering if the spindle has to be removed as suggested? Looking at the set up, If I were to take the front axle CV joint out would I have enough room to press out the ball joint in place? Or would it be easier to drop the lower control arm to get access to the joint?
I took off the brakes and rotor last night to get a better look. The removal of the hub doesn't appear to easy either.
Any help or comments would be appreciated.
I was wondering if the spindle has to be removed as suggested? Looking at the set up, If I were to take the front axle CV joint out would I have enough room to press out the ball joint in place? Or would it be easier to drop the lower control arm to get access to the joint?
I took off the brakes and rotor last night to get a better look. The removal of the hub doesn't appear to easy either.
Any help or comments would be appreciated.
#2
The problem with taking the LCA off is that you have to remove the Torsion Bars too. I don't think that that is fun. The shop I brought mine to did them on a lift with the LCA still connected to the truck. I wish I had tried it. All they had was the same ball joint press I could have rented for free at Autozone and an air compressor/impact wrench. They removed the wheel, caliper, rotor, pulled the ball joint out of the spindle, and cranked the heck out of that press until the damn thing came out. Like I said, it looked like a lot of fun and I wish I had tried it. Then they pressed the new ones in put it back together, and greased it up, and oh yeah, the ***** forgot to push the boots all the way on. I ended up cutting them trying to get them all the way on and since Moog doesn't sell them sepearate, I'll probably end up doing the ball joints again real soon.
I believe you'll want to use some nice Moog K8695T's on your truck, it's the same as mine. Once you do the job, get an alignment too. I wouldn't take it on unless you are fairly mechanically inclined though.
-Jim
I believe you'll want to use some nice Moog K8695T's on your truck, it's the same as mine. Once you do the job, get an alignment too. I wouldn't take it on unless you are fairly mechanically inclined though.
-Jim
Last edited by Ken00; 01-06-2004 at 08:20 PM.
#3
Well I took the truck into the dealer today. I thought it was the lower but they said the upper is seized. They also said that both sides have to be done (go figure). They want, are you ready, $1385 to replace all the ball joints. Three hours for the uppers, four for the lowers plus parts.
I told them to replace the two lowers only. I will do the uppers. They look a lot easier to do.
I told them to replace the two lowers only. I will do the uppers. They look a lot easier to do.
#4
Originally posted by dbradey
Well I took the truck into the dealer today. I thought it was the lower but they said the upper is seized. They also said that both sides have to be done (go figure). They want, are you ready, $1385 to replace all the ball joints. Three hours for the uppers, four for the lowers plus parts.
I told them to replace the two lowers only. I will do the uppers. They look a lot easier to do.
Well I took the truck into the dealer today. I thought it was the lower but they said the upper is seized. They also said that both sides have to be done (go figure). They want, are you ready, $1385 to replace all the ball joints. Three hours for the uppers, four for the lowers plus parts.
I told them to replace the two lowers only. I will do the uppers. They look a lot easier to do.
#5
My driver's side ball joint is going bad, dealership thinks it's the lower balljoint. The good news is, it's actually covered under my aftermarket warranty. When I get it done, should I try and make them do both sides? Obviously I want them to, and it would make sense that you should do both, but what should I try to convince them? I'm hoping that they'll want to do it anyway (they get full reimbursement from the warranty co.).
#6
#7
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#8
How often (under normal on road conditions) should ball joints be lasting? My 98 Ranger 4X4 goes through lower ball joints like candy....at least once a year and sometimes twice a year I hear that familiar old creaking and squeaking and it's starting to convince me not to buy another ford truck...
I had to replace my first lower ball joint at 62K and have had to replace both sides at least 3 times since, I'm now at 116K. Frustrating.
(just a note, these ball joints have been installed by 2 different Ford dealers and one private mechanic so I don't think it is an error by the shop doing the work....)
__________________
98 Ranger XLT Supercab
3.0L 4X4
I had to replace my first lower ball joint at 62K and have had to replace both sides at least 3 times since, I'm now at 116K. Frustrating.
(just a note, these ball joints have been installed by 2 different Ford dealers and one private mechanic so I don't think it is an error by the shop doing the work....)
__________________
98 Ranger XLT Supercab
3.0L 4X4
#9
Don't know how long they SHOULD last, but definately should be longer... It's pretty common with the newer Rangers and Explorer's with the similar platform. I just had my first balljoint replaced at 83k miles, it was the drivers side, lower. Makes me glad I bought a warranty, as it only costed me $100 deductable and they're also fixing the fading disply on my stereo.
How much does it normally cost to have the balljoint replaced?
Brian J Wilson
How much does it normally cost to have the balljoint replaced?
Brian J Wilson
#10
well a mere 10K miles ago the left lower ball joint cost me 220.15 at a Ford dealer....now it appears both side are in need of replacement again.
I beleive I may purchase a different vehicle as opposed to fixing this one again, especially since I have similar problems with 4X4 never working. (I have paid for that one three times now and that does not include the time the dealer fixed it free and wrote off the parts as defective)
I just hate to have a car payment again, it's been almost 2 years without....:-(
Brian Jolie
__________________
98 Ranger XLT Supercab
3.0L 4X4
I beleive I may purchase a different vehicle as opposed to fixing this one again, especially since I have similar problems with 4X4 never working. (I have paid for that one three times now and that does not include the time the dealer fixed it free and wrote off the parts as defective)
I just hate to have a car payment again, it's been almost 2 years without....:-(
Brian Jolie
__________________
98 Ranger XLT Supercab
3.0L 4X4
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