I have a 1996 explorer that started making a high speed spinning sound when you let off the accelerator at 30 mph or above. If you put it neutral the spinning sound will go away, or if you press on the accelerator. I thought maybe the torque converter, but a transmission mechanic said probably not, I'm still not convinced. He thought maybe the transfer case. Has anyone ever heard of this.

 

I recently had a new torque converter put in my exploder after it started making a whining noise in neutral. When the transmission was shifted to reverse and the brake held with no gas the engine died. If I let off the brake the truck took off backwards much faster than normal.

 

I am new to this forum, but when I read your post had to respond.

I also have just recently experienced the problem that you described as a high speed, high pitched spinning when taking foot off of accerator, and when you put on the brake or back on the accerator, it stops... I have a 1998 Explorer and this all started after having it in 4 wheel drive low after the snow strom here a few weeks ago... seems like to us that 4 wheel drive is still trying to engage when were moving, thus making this high pitched spinning noise.

talked with my mechanic and he seems to think that it is just that my 4 wheel drive did not disengage completely the last time we used it, so we went back through the steps of correctly disengaging the 4 wheel drive ...

stopping the vehicle, placing it in neutral, foot mashed on the brake and then moving the 4 wheel drive switch back to the auto position. then we backed up a bit and herd the 4 wheel drive kick out ( loud thud) since doing this the noise has stopped. Not sure if it was that or not, but since it started after the 4 wheel drive being used, and then stopped when we disengaged it correctly.. seems to be help. no more noise...

hope yours is the same and as easy to correct.

Christina

 

My 97 XLT has the same problem. Drops out of gear with a loud whirring noise when coasting but has no problem up hills or whenever the engine is under load. I've been getting around it by shifting to neutral until things seem to sync up again and then back into (d)rive.
The BIGGEST problem I have though is that I rarely get reverse. My driveway points uphill and when I shift into reverse to back down it I just get the whirring sound. 90% of the time I get the same problem on the flat also - no reverse, just the noise. Doesn't seem to matter if the tranny is hot or cold.
This is the 'Control-Trac' auto-selecting 4WD. I've experimented with the In/out of 4WD in park to see if it is stuck in 4x4 - no joy.

Help!

-Ian

 

In that 97 XLT, put the tranny in manual low and point it down hill. With no gas, see if it has engine braking. There is a common problem with the valve body gaskets blowing out because of loose bolts. Not a hard home job or about $800 at dealer. If you continue to wait damage will be done to the clutches and the tranny will have to be pulled $$$$$$$.

 

Ok - I went out to the top of a hill, brake on, put it in (N) shifted to 4x4 Low, put it in (D)rive and rolled down the hill with no gas. There is definitely engine braking going on.
After shifting between 4x4 low and 4x4 high a few times and sometimes reversing (vaguely hoping to facilitate shifting out of 4x4?) it seems a tiny bit better. I seem to be getting reverse more often (60% of the time) but it still drops out of gear coasting in (D)rive. If I keep my foot *slightly* on the gas it seems to be OK.
I think my next step will probably be a transmission flush.

 

First I have...

1997 Ford Explorer
V6 Control Trac 4X4

I have had this problem before and repaired it and have it again. First before I give details on what I know about this issue let me make a clear statement of the symptoms of my problem.

1. loud spinning sound when "coasting", does no occur at very low speeds but does at speeds over 30 or so mph.

2. spinning sound volume is directly related to speed. If going fast it is louder that if going slower.

3. sound occurs in all gears, Drive, second and first.

4. sound occurs in 4 wheel high, 4 wheel low and auto mode. no matter what gear the transmission is in. Drive, second and first. The only exception is when the vehicle is in 4 wheel low in 1 st gear. This seems to be because the vehicle does not reach more than 30 mph easily.

5. reapplying the gas pedal makes sound go away and reengages the drivetrain. As long as you are on the gas it doesnt make sound. Sound starts 3-8 seconds after you left off the gas.

6. I can totally avoid this sound by using both feet to drive and instead of "coasting" I keep a little gas on while applying the brake.

7. If I "coast" in reverse the sound is present and reapplying the gas does not reengage the drivetrain. But the above 2 foot method can avoid this as well.

Now having said all of this I have had this problem before. It is the transfer case.

I had this problem a year and a half ago and bought a used transfer case from my local junkyard for $500 and replaced it myself. It solved the problem. I recently am experiencing the same issue again and have been told by 4 transmission shops that it is the transfer case and it will be about $1100- $1200 to replace it with a rebuilt one. I am leary about doing this if the problem is going to come back in 18 months or so. In fact the best warranty I can find on a rebuilt transfer case is 18 months. huh? A new one from ford is $2100 so that is out of the question and I am not sure but I think it only has 1 year warranty.

The transfer case in question is the 4405-008 made by Borg Warner. The ford part number is f77a-7a195-ga. I called Borg Warner and was told I can only buy it new from Ford. I have done a lot of research on this problem since this is the second time I am going through this.

I was able to find an interesting article published by the ATRA, Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, that was printed in a magazine that they publish called "Gears". It can be found in the September 2002 magazine. In an article entitled, "Diagnosing the Borg Warner 4405 Transfer Case" by Mike Weinberg, President, Rockland Standard Gear Inc. I copied the important info here.

---This unit is prone to certainmechanical problems that are beyond the scope of most shops to repair. The most common mechanical failure is acomplaint of a loss of drive accompanied by a ratcheting noise coming from the transfer case during coast or deceleration or when in reverse. Careful questioning of the driver will reveal that this condition was preceded by an occasional thump from the transfer case at a constant road speed of 40-60 MPH.When you disassemble the transfer case you will find that the range hub and range fork will be damaged, but replacing these items will not solve the prob-lem. The range hub is helical cut gearing and will stay in mesh under load, but will move out on coast due to thethrust loads generated by the helicaldesign. Adding power will cause thegear to return to the correct position.The bottom of the teeth get chewed upand the constant pressure on the forkcauses it to burn up. The real cause ofthe problem is an offset in the centerlinedistance, putting the shift rail at anangle, which allows the range fork tomove out of position. The cases aremagnesium and we do considerablemachine work to correct this problem,which is beyond the equipment found inthe average shop. If you see units withthis damage, you will usually seeoblong holes in the cases where theshift rail rides. It is cheaper and moreefficient to buy a unit that has this problem corrected than to tackle it yourself.---

This article basically says its a known issue and has a fix. I personally believe that if its an engineering flaw it should be covered by a recall of some sort. I will be contacting Ford about such a claim.

I also found a site that seems to be selling a fix that should minimize costs associated with repairing this problem. Omega Machine and Tool, Inc. is selling rear case halves that their website seems to indicate fix this problem comkpletly. Do your own research though first. Here is the link ---http://www.omegamachine.com/html/BW4405_rear_case_repair.html---

Anyways I know this is a long post but I thought I would try and summerize everything I have learned through this process. Too bad its winter time or I would have torn mine apart already and look at it myself. Hope this helps someone else out there. Please respond if you have any other info that I didnt include that may be useful.

Thanks,

Joe

 

First of all Joe, thanks for such a clear and helpful response. Looks like you've identified a problem that quite a few of us have run into. My truck's symptoms match yours completely.

I have a couple of questions concerning swapping out the transfer case:

1> In the workshop manual it looks pretty straightforward but how much clearance do I need under the truck in order to drop the case? I only have your basic two-car garage to work in.

2> Like you, I'm getting pretty good at driving this thing with minimal 'whirring'. I may have to keep doing this until the weather warms up. I know the TC is shot but how much damage, if any, is this doing to the actual tranny?

3> Any other tips on TC removal and installation?

Once again, thanks so much for all your help.

-Ian

 

Ian,

Changing out the tranfer case is pretty straightforward. These are the basic steps involved.


Removal

1. Note: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy.

Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).

WARNING:
THE ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLY TO THE AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM MUST BE SHUT OFF PRIOR TO HOISTING, JACKING OR TOWING AN AIR SUSPENSION VEHICLE. THIS CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY TURNING OFF THE AIR SUSPENSION SWITCH LOCATED IN THE REAR JACK STORAGE AREA. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN UNEXPECTED INFLATION OR DEFLATION OF THE AIR SPRINGS WHICH MAY RESULT IN SHIFTING OF THE VEHICLE DURING THESE OPERATIONS.

2.Raise and support the vehicle.

3.Note: If disassembly is required, drain the transfer case.
Drain the transfer case.

Remove the drain plug and reinstall when transfer case is completely drained.

4.Remove the four skid plate bolts and remove the skid plate.

5.Note: To maintain initial driveshaft balance, mark the rear driveshaft yoke and axle flange so they can be installed in their original positions.

Index the driveshaft yoke to driveshaft rear axle companion flange.

6.Index the driveshaft yoke to the rear transfer case flange.

7.Remove the four rear bolts and disconnect the rear driveshaft.

8.Separate the driveshaft from the transfer case.

1 Remove the four bolts.

2 Carefully remove the driveshaft.

9. Index the front axle companion flange to the front driveshaft

10. Index the front transfer case flange to the front driveshaft.

11. Separate the front driveshaft from the transfer case.

1 Remove the six bolts and retainers.

2 Carefully disconnect the front driveshaft.

12. Remove the front driveshaft.

1 Remove the bolts.

2 Disconnect the driveshaft from the transfer case.

3 Carefully remove the front driveshaft.

13. Remove the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).

1 Remove the electrical connector.

2 Remove the nut.

3 Remove the VSS.

14. Disconnect the shift motor electrical connector.

15. Position Hi-Lift Jack with Transfer Case Adapter under the transfer case.

16.Note: Use a long extension to remove the five transmission to transfer case bolts. Reposition the transmission exhaust heat shield, and remove the staked wiring harness.

Remove the five transmission to transfer case bolts.

17. Lower the transfer case.

Reinstalling is the exact reverse of these steps of course. Oh yea and make sure you refill your new case will gear oil.

As for clearence I did mine with a standard floor jack and 4 jackstands. I gues I would say I had the truck about 2 ft in the air.

I am really not sure what if any damage is being done to the tranny while running it in this condition. I would guess little or none.

I am a network engineer for a living so dont tkae my word on too much. My knowledge comes from hours of thought, research and frustration.


Hope this helps. Check out my next post for info on where to buy a transfer case that has been rebuilt and rengineered to correct and avoid this problem in the future.

--Joe

 

Oh yea by the way the problem that I indicated in my last post about it being an engineering issue. I made some phone calls and it seems you can buy a rebuilt transfer case from a company called Rockland standard Gear, NY, 1-800-227-1523.

They claim that they have these rebuilt transfer cases and that they have corrected the root engineering issue so that the unit doesn' fail again in a year or so as mine did.

The end user cost is $1095.00 plus a 200 dollar core charge but I talked to Cindy at extension 113 and she said that I may be able to get it cheaper through a shop. She is really knowledgeable about this issue and a pleasure to speak with. You get a 1 year unlimited milage warranty on this unit.

Hope this helps. I know its a steep price but I am thinking about it.

--Joe

 

Oh yea oh97explorer is the same guy as flytripper lol

 

A little unrelated, but I opened my 4405 to replace the rear shaft bearing. Unit had run a lont time before I bought it with very little fluid. Rear shaft had a lot of up down play that I thought was the bearing. Opened the case and found the the flange the bearing mounted in was worn, not the bearing. All I could do was shim the bearing and hope for a few more miles. Since then I have heard others with the same up down play problems. Be sure to check for this play on any used units. Still looking for a good $200 replacement.

 

opera,

let me know what you want to do to repair that transfer case for $200 or less. the omega machine co has case halves for around $140. If that is what you need. or send me an email.

 

I'd be interested to know how easy/practical it is to split the case as it may be an option for me also. I've rebuilt DOHC 4 cylinder Honda motorbikes before - and they have about twenty million parts, but I'm still a bit leery of specialized tool requirements etc. Not to mention all my workshop books say not to go in there. On the other hand there isn't much to lose I guess.

$200-ish plus a gasket/seal rebuild kit sounds like it might be do-able. Let's keep this thread going

-Ian

 

There's a 4405 on Ebay right now for $200. Wish I could afford it but maybe one of you can get it. Here's the URL:
http://tinyurl.com/ypvhq
just paste it into your browser or search on "ford transfer case", or item number 2456358244. there's less than two days left on it.

-Ian