Well got my phone in to see what's all going on behind the engine after my air Injection delete that I did not finish yet . And it appears the PO Removed the metal tube from head to head ? It's the big bolt hole in the upper right correct ? So the head is sucking in air through the uncapped hole ?

Edit: i traced the tubes back that i cut , and they seem to not go in the head . Now that I think of it my memory i read somewhere my year or engine did not have tubes in head just in exhaust ?

 

The Air Injection port is the larger of the two side by side holes.

It takes a 5/8ths bolt, coarse thread (11 threads per inch) recomended stainless steel at least an inch long.

Some are filled enough with carbon that they will seal with bolt only.

Excessive carbon will make the bolt hard to start.

Some use a longer bolt & grind a taper into its end.

Some people use a copper washer as a gasket.

Some holes that are facing front of the engine have threaded inserts to mount accessories.

 

here is a close up of the bolt hole which I believe is for air pump. Looks like it is dead ended ?

I got another good look at the tubes I cut back there and they went from exhaust- then to device which was mounted next to distributor cap i believe(air diverter valve ?)

 

The cross over tube is flanged. The smaller hole is for the "hold-down" bolt.

 

This is where the air injection hole would be.


It looks like it has a plug compared to my old E7 heads with “in head” air


Have you tried to stick a straw or pocket screwdriver in there to see if it is actually open or capped off? I assume you have either have headers or stock manifolds without air tubes?

 

I will try to stick something in there .

Yep i have headers.

She smells strong guys. I mean rich as can be

And my fuel mileage is down

I just took off from a stoplight and smells like burnt something.

Only mods are headers , full exhaust. air pump delete , and EGR is not hooked up . Still electrically connected. Vacuum disconnected . Vacuum lines that went to air diverter valve ? Are just taped up as well as EGR. I got plugs so need to cap those off better than tape. Heck I wonder if EGR is stuck open or something .

I also have 15w-40 delo in the engine right now. If that makes a difference .

I just got 7.5 MPG. Now granted a lot of short trips , but all highway when i still had leaky manifolds EGR and air injection intact i got 18.5 on a highway trip !

Could my little cat be causing a ton of backpressure? It looks pretty toasty . Is a magnaflow universal cat. It loked like in the reviews guys were puttting the same model cat on their hot rods so i figured it would hold up .

Here's a pic of tailpipe carbon and catalytic converter.

 

Why are you running such thick oil? I didn’t use anything more than 10W-30 in my 5.0L

If you were getting 18mpg, why would you do that stuff?

No. That converter is fine.

 

You could procure an AIR pipe and flip it around to block off the ports. Works fine. EGR can leak, my 4.9 did. So I just blocked it off.

You might have one or multiple bad injectors. Check the O2 also.

What gears, tire height, trans?

 

3.55 gears . Stock 235/85/16 Cooper discoverers . E4OD .

I had a gnarly exhaust leak before is why I did all this stuff . put headers and full exhaust . Havent welded bung for EGR yet in headers (if i decide to on the fence ) and just deleted air to clean up engine bay and get rid of air pump now have idler pulley.

I was running 5 weight before but saw a video where an old logger swears by 15-40 diesel in his old gas rigs and i just thought id try it. I know that's probably a little of the mpg drop.

I just replaced all injectors a couple thousand miles ago . One did have a cracked cap but i was committed and didnt want to wait to get replacment . Maybe that mistake is coming back to get me.

I suppose O2 could be bad ? Its in driver header o2 port. So only reading off one bank of exhaust .


I've got the 5/8 bolts and copper washers I would like to go that route. I saw a thread where the guy grinded and filed one down to get the carbon out!

 

Slightly heavier oil will not make the economy that poor. I have that in my 4.9 due to the flat tappet camshaft. It has a bit more ZDDP for cheap. I would run 10/30 with a solid additive pack that was not $10/qt. VR1 and GTX Classic are available but spendy.

Start with fuel pressure check, fresh injectors, and a fresh O2.

Just saw fresh injectors. Were they new? Remans?

 

They were Reman injectors I believe. It was like 400 some bucks a couple years ago for all 8 . I replaced fuel pressure regulator, filter and fuel pump at the time. Fuel pressure was perfect . This was all done maybe 2000 miles ago

O2 sensor gotcha ! I dont have a o2 related CEL only for EGR if that makes a difference

engine has tons of power in my eyes . So i would think not fuel pressure ? No sluggishness like I had before I fixed all the fuel pressure issues. It was a dog before

 

Is the intake sealed off where the EGR bolts on?
Is your spout connector in place?

 

Long time I haven't seen this subject discussed, I'll keep tabs on this one, there's some good info in here.

 

I'll have to check spout connector .

No the EGR is still all there minus the tube to the exhaust, and the vacuum . Still electrically connected and everything. I was under the impression that it will stay closed with no vacuum hooked up ?

I'll change the o2 , I do believe it is only about a year and a half old and maybe 2000 miles on it. I have only one code, EGR related.

Good idea on fuel pressure test . I wonder if fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is done for and I'm sucking fuel into intake . But changed that 2-3 years ago and only a few thousand miles on that as well .

 

I had a leaking EGR valve on my 4.9. Caused the idle to be about 100rpm too high.

Your O2 is a three wire, just find your ground and power. The last is your signal. Monitor it for voltage. Should float around 0.3-0.7V pretty rapidly.

FP test smart and easy.