TL/DR: Drive shaft/yoke- What years are compatible with a 96. I dont have the old one for reference. caveats I need to be mindful of?

Edit: this may help
1996 F150 4.9EFI 5spd 2wd SWB Dual Tanks

Well 3 months into my ownership of my new daily driver I get to introduce myself to the 87-96 crowd. I have to say I'm surprised it took this long before I needed​ urgent​ help. I'm normally found on the Bullnose forum. So howdy! Nice to meet y'all, just wish it was under better circumstances

I'm 300 miles from home (in transit). Last night I took off from a traffic light​,heard a clunk and lost my go. My drive shaft decided to run away from home! I coasted to a stop and sure enough it's nowhere to be found. I walked up and down the highway for over an hour and it is nowhere be found.

So I've never replaced one before and need to know what I need to do so. I'm on the side of the road, in the rain, so while I have searched and read post from this site, I honestly don't have the time to research like I normally works. So I'm asking the collective wisdom of this great forum to help me figure this out.

Junk yards are my only option. I should be able to find one I've got to measure to see what length I need. I don't have the old one to see what i need to replace.

So things I know I don't know:

1) I'm assuming there are splines in the yolk. How many
? What year and drivetrains should I be looking for?

2) Ill need a new Universal joint (probably the cause of the failure)- are there any special tools I need other than basic sockets?

3) Are there any seals I need to check? Any fluids? Grease?

I know very little about this procedure, so please assume
I'm an idiot and break it down for me. I'm freaking out a little on the inside. Money's getting tight and I have to get to my next job tomorrow.

I borrowed an old employee's car, I'll be driving out to the truck shortly to take measurements. I can take pictures of need be. There doesn't look to be any damage to trans or pumpkin.

Thanks so much in advance,

Charlie

 

In case I missed it, is it a 150 250 or 350? Basically I'm pretty sure as long as its the same wheelbase with the same transmission or transfercase if its four wheel drive and has the same rearend. You should be able to use a shaft from 86?-96

 

I'm sorry. I didnt put it in there. F150. I changed my sig before posting but I spaced on putting it I the post.

 

Mudsport96 -. Thank you for the quick reply. I can't rep on mobile for some reason. Anyway...

I'm not at the truck right this second but in my mind I thought the drive shaft was not dependant on the rear end gearing. I assumed it bolted into a flange of sorts. I need to go take a closer look. Do I have this wrong in my head ? I wish I could find a diagram online. I'm trying to remotely assess my home CPU for the shop manual

 

Well being it's an F150 it will only have the 8.8 rearend. Its not gearing dependent, but I THINK 250s and 350s could have either a Sterling rearend or a Dana 60 so the driveshafts could possibly have different lengths.
But a 150 only has a ford 8.8 so now its just down to 2 wheel drive or 4, and cab style and bed style?
​​​​​​​ As for tools pretty sure its a 12 mm 12 point bolt that holds the companion flange on but from a junkyard the shaft you get should have it attached. So I would get a shaft and find someone with a hydraulic press to swap the ujoints out, then stick the new shaft in.

 

1996 f150 4.9 5spd SWB dual tanks. I'm sorry for the delay. I didn't realize you were still waiting on that info. I edited the original post but should have responded inline. I'm a bit frazzled so things aren't firing on all cylinders upstairs at the moment.

Another mental error....I don't know what I was thinking about the gearing when you said rear end. Again, please forgive my idiocy today.

I'm glad you mentioned the 8.8 though. My 83 has a 9" so I will make sure to avoid those. My knowledge doesn't extend much past the early to mid 80's bullys

 

Oh wow. I didn't realize I needed to have the ujoints pressed in. I'll start calling around. I guess machine shops is where to start?

 

The important part is going to be locating a driveshaft from exactly the same combination of wheelbase, transmission, and rear differential. The real world situation is that something in a 1984 to 1996 2WD F150 with a SWB will likely fit. I would not walk past an AT equipped truck without checking the fit, but a manual equipped truck would stand a better chance. The pre 1984 trucks may have had a different diff and the driveshaft length may have changed. The splines into the transmission are consistent across all Ford F150 transmissions if memory serves correctly. There should be no need to change U joints if your replacement shaft is in good condition and as mentioned, you can unbolt the flange from the 8.8" diff with a 12 point 12 mm wrench. I would suggest using a rubber hammer to hit the box end wrench I hope you are using as a sort of improvised impact tool as those bolts are usually threadlocked.

 

Thank you Ray. The u joint issue has been what's stumped me since it was mentioned. Only a couple places opened that will press them and it's going to run me $200 which I don't have, was trying to find another option.

I'm glad you mentioned it because I was going to ask if there wasn't any play in the joints if I could reuse it. Anything other than play in joint is there anything else bi should be looking for to help determine if the new one is usable?

 

I've used a shop press, u joint press, and hammer to replace u joints. All three worked out fine. But as stated, if the joints seem okay they likely are. I'm not sure I'd change them until possibly a more convenient time to do so.

 

That's like "Twilight Zone" stuff. Before you go too far in finding a DS, have you inspected the driveshaft flange on the rear axle for damage? If the flange is bent, the bolts broken off, or it is some way broken, then replacing just the DS won't do you much good.