97 7.3 OBS
Replacing harness and gasket and would like to do pig tails also. What brand? Some aftermarket are a one piece which sounds good but I read somewhere that they had seen the wiring incorrect and damaged motor. Would not be hard to ohm out to confirm its correct. OEM kit is like four time the cost and more places to fail. What has been working?

 

OEM and done.

 

If you're going to do gaskets and pigtails you would be money ahead to upgrade to the SD gaskets. Only one plug and larger pins on the GPs.
I recently did mine and bought from Riffraff Diesel.

 

Clean truck I like it, I used Dorman VC and they worked good, and with lifetime warranty whats not to love, the OEM work too but they had the tendancy of undooing them selfs every once in a while.

 

Not the eBay ones. The last set I got had a glow plug connector full of plastic from casting. I had to reuse part of the old harness

 

so all I need is two superduty valve covers, OEM harness, gasket, pigtails, solder, flux, and time? Whats the main benefit with the swap? Larger pins/less resistance? Any other wires in main harness heading to firewall that need to be kept?

 

you don't need valve covers


I would just get the dorman one which eliminates the internal connector
More Information for DORMAN 615201




People like it too
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-0-50-mod.html

 

The Dormans are what I replaced with the SD gaskets, they only had 10K on them when the GP pins burned again.
To the original poster, you need two SD gaskets, two under valve cover harnesses and two harness pigtails. To install you need a good soldering iron, solder and heat shrink tubing. I taped my harnesses back together with black tape and added a few rounds of red to match the original.
The upgrade gives you larger glow plug pins which are the weak point of the original gaskets.

 

I carry two (that's right, two) spare Dorman VC gaskets and UVCH... I guess you could say that's how much faith I have in them.

I have had my truck for 20k miles and have burnt three gaskets up. The only reason I stay with them is they always burn up before the warranty is out so I get new ones for free. As soon as I have a couple extra jingles in my pocket, I will do the SD swap with OEM Ford parts. Only way to go in my opinion.

 

97 7.3


Its been taking 10 to 15 seconds of cranking to fire off.
Recently replaced valve cover gasket and wire harness, replaced pigtails. resolved injector high side open bank issue.


Two new batteries fully charged.


Wait to start - Yes
Tach moves - Yes
Smoke from tail pipe on cranking - NO
Crank case oil full - Yes
Fuel in bowl - Yes
Fuel pressure during cranking - 48psi
ICP disconnected - No Start


Auto Enginuity scan during cranking
ICP pressure during cranking builds to around 600psi then she fires off. takes about 10 seconds or more. 725 psi during idle
ICP Duty Cycle during cranking is 35.5 and drops to 12 to 14 at idle


KOER code p1211 injection pressure high/low
P0476 Exhaust psi control valve range.


Buzz test passed


KOEO code P0605 at one time it had a CTS diesel programmer but since removed.


She has been starting and running like a champ for the two years I have had her. Shut down at highway speed then would only start if you crank for 10 seconds or more. The flow chart pointed me to the ICP so it was changed last weekend with a new one from Riff Raff. Took about the same 10 seconds or so to fire off. Idled for a few minutes and then shut down and attempted restart. now I am in a no start situation. did not have laptop to rescan for KOEO codes. Also after a day of sitting the HPOP drains down to about 1.5" from the bottom by measuring with a makeshift dip stick.


So what it appears to me is the slow start was because the time it took to build required oil PSI. How do I know if I'm loosing oil pressure at an injector or HPOP is going out? I'll rescan this week for codes.

 

By your ipr duty cycle. It should be 12-13 at idle and no more than 30% or so when cranking