I'd delete my previous post but not sure how to. Sorry for so many threads. I've made my mind up I'm going with holly red pump from oreilly auto parts. Question is. I have a cheapo e fuel pump installed by my rear tank from previous owner. I'll remove it and replace it with the holly pump or should I mount the holly pump in the engine? I need block off plate for the old mechanical pump but how to I plumb the holly red pump?

 

holly pumps are pushers, not pullers.
you need to mount them closest to the fuel source as you can, usually right after the fuel switch valve on a 2 tank system.
these also need a water separator before them.
these pumps are not ment to push diesel,
they can, and will, but the innerds do corrode and can lock up without warning.
im on my 3rd holley black pump. and I will be getting a FASS system or equivalent when this one dies.
if youre buying from a drunken irish, be ready to get raped.
I buy mine from Summit

 

Well fudge. People were saying good things about the red. Which e pump would be better to use then? Mounting in the engine is soo much easier tho haha!

 

I don't buy the reds, I buy the blacks and regulate them.
I literally have about 7 of these pumps installed on various types of vehicles and vessles.
they work great, until they don't work no more.
the problem is that NAFTA has destroyed the quality of products.


ive been debating on going with a 99-03 SD pump.
but it will need a separate return line.

 

So your suggesting holly black? My other question is do I need do anything with the return line?

 

I'm not spending 200 on a black holly pump right now haha! The red holly or blue is available at oreilly or the Mr gasket 12d pump which is diesel rated would I have to do anything to the return line or just leave it how it is?

 

im suggesting you leave the stock mechanical pump on and use the search box more LOL

 

I'm tired of air problems lol.. and every time I think I found a good item there is always someone with negative reviews which makes me rethink it and ask more questions.

 

FYI air issues are not likely pump related,
its the inability and lack of proper maintenance.
you can spend over 800 on the baddest pump out there, but if you cant replace an olive, youre still going to have issues.

 

From what others experience it seems to be exact same problem im having. The truck will run fine I stop to get fuel 10mins max and entire engine full of air. Tried the cold water test on the injector pump. Replaced check valve on the fuel filter housing. Installed clear hose on return line. Fixed few leaks on supply line.

 

Not to mention the injector pump was replace by previous owner right before I bought her

 

Look... Get yourself a $7 squeeze bulb(inline primer bulb) and a new $25 mechanical lift pump.
Install the mechanical lift pump, and then cut the line between the lift pump and the fuel filter.
Install the squeeze-bulb in line between the lift pump and fuel filter, using some 3/8" rubber fuel line.

It will basically stop all 'air intrusion' issues if they stem from fuel draining back to the tank.

I've done this on 3 trucks so far with excellent results. The primer acts as a check valve(they are actually /two/ check valves), and if you do run out of fuel some where, you can prime the system easier.
You can also feel with just a squeeze or two whether you have fuel or air coming in.

As far as replacing the lift pump, it's cheap and easy. Do it, because you may have a leak inside it. Or simply that the flapper check valves inside are failing.

 

I delete all the stock crap, and did my own supply and return lines.
my fuel lines are all stainless braided lines with AN fittings.
with my holley black pump regulated to 7 psi at the filter head.
I have a custom return cap system, and a leak free truck.


I also ran them on the passenger side frame rail.

 

If I do the bulb method it will work if the lift pump is working correct? If the lift pump isn't getting good contact with the cam lobe the the bulb won't help much correct? And yes the lift pump is cheap but changing it seems difficult with getting the cam position correct. I don't want to damage anything is my issue. I also read that the lever could be different on the replacement part due to manufacture changing it because people were installing it on top of the lobe instead of below it. That's what I researched

 

I'd love to redo all the fuel system but I don't have the time or money. Remember I bought this truck for 400 and drove her many miles no issues. I just want her to run and not leave me stranded draining the batteries trying to prime the system.