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Tips and tricks for steering box replacement?

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  #16  
Old 01-12-2017, 04:42 PM
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Many praise the Redhead. Unfortunately my budget was unable to absorb the cost from other recent buck$zooka purchases. I went with an A-1 Cardone reman unit (I don't think you can get them new any more). I've been very happy with it and it was about 1/3 the price. When this one dies I will hopefully be able to get a Redhead.
 
  #17  
Old 01-12-2017, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveH-CO
Don't let the steering wheel go around-and-around on any airbag equipped vehicle, when you pull the steering box, or you can damage the clock spring. Run the seat belt through the wheel and buckle it up.
Great point! I completely forgot to mention that. I used my seatbelt to hold the wheel in place so I didn't mess up the clockspring.
 
  #18  
Old 01-12-2017, 05:00 PM
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I have read that one of the the very best penetrating oils is a mix of ATF and acetone.
Did you test it during your R&D? I would think that issue is the acetone would dissipate very rapidly.
 
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:05 PM
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No. Never tested homemade concoctions... just formally sold goods from manufacturers, primarily obtained on sales calls as a comparison of "theirs" versus "ours". I would often swap the potential customer two cans of ours for one of theirs and then could test the "other guy's" stuff both at home and on our friction testing machines for later demonstrations.
 
  #20  
Old 01-12-2017, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveH-CO
Don't let the steering wheel go around-and-around on any airbag equipped vehicle, when you pull the steering box, or you can damage the clock spring. Run the seat belt through the wheel and buckle it up.
I never thought of that however my key was out and column locked
 
  #21  
Old 01-12-2017, 09:30 PM
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Sounds like I'm gonna do both then. Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll just lock the steering wheel and use the seatbelt just in case. I'm still confused on why it's necessary tho.
 
  #22  
Old 01-12-2017, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
Many praise the Redhead. Unfortunately my budget was unable to absorb the cost from other recent buck$zooka purchases. I went with an A-1 Cardone reman unit (I don't think you can get them new any more). I've been very happy with it and it was about 1/3 the price. When this one dies I will hopefully be able to get a Redhead.
That explains the core charge
 
  #23  
Old 01-13-2017, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Dude-Ford
Sounds like I'm gonna do both then. Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll just lock the steering wheel and use the seatbelt just in case. I'm still confused on why it's necessary tho.
The clockspring is a spring winding. It is the connection between all of the electronic stuff on the steering wheel (radio, cruise control, airbag sensor, etc.). If it winds too tight it breaks. If it's too loose then it could become misaligned...and breaks. Keeping the wheel straight so that you can line up the gearbox when it's straight will keep the clockspring aligned so that it doesn't potentially break or get damaged.
 
  #24  
Old 01-13-2017, 08:45 AM
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The reason you want to loop the seat belt through the steering wheel with the column UNlocked is so that you have the play necessary to get the splines to line up when reinstalling the steering shaft. UNlocked gives you movement you very much need. Seat belt keeps the wheel from going all exersist on you.
 
  #25  
Old 01-13-2017, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Karlow
I have read that one of the the very best penetrating oils is a mix of ATF and acetone.
Did you test it during your R&D? I would think that issue is the acetone would dissipate very rapidly.
yes it works very well and just as good as PBBlaster does IMO
 
  #26  
Old 01-13-2017, 03:32 PM
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I use acetone/ATF 50/50 as well and it has done right by me.
 
  #27  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeF250
The reason you want to loop the seat belt through the steering wheel with the column UNlocked is so that you have the play necessary to get the splines to line up when reinstalling the steering shaft. UNlocked gives you movement you very much need. Seat belt keeps the wheel from going all exersist on you.
Roger that
 
  #28  
Old 01-17-2017, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
You can get the box out with the pitman arm still on no problem. I realize now that I didn't mention it earlier but I had my gearbox in a vise when I pulled the arm off. Not enough leverage with it in the truck and I was afraid of what I might damage if something let go or I slipped (including me). I clamped it in a vise when I used the puller to get the arm off.

I had to let it sit overnight to get all of the ATF out of it before shipping it back as the core. If your gear isn't too shot you should be able to move it with your hand. Repeatedly going lock to lock will help expedite the fluid draining process.
Do you remember the size of that big nut that mounts the pitman to the box, the one with like 200ft/lbs?
 
  #29  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:45 PM
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pretty sure mine was 1 & 5/16" It took some effort to get loose, my electric impact wouldn't touch it. breaking bar, extension pipe, and a piece of square tubing over the Pittman arm to hold it worked for me.
 
  #30  
Old 01-18-2017, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeF250
pretty sure mine was 1 & 5/16" It took some effort to get loose, my electric impact wouldn't touch it. breaking bar, extension pipe, and a piece of square tubing over the Pittman arm to hold it worked for me.
Ok thanks, installing it tomorrow morning. Stay tuned.
 


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