How to remove electrical connection on trans cover
#1
How to remove electrical connection on trans cover
Got it off. Easy to see when the grease is really cleaned off. How do these shift forks look to the informed. I have no idea what they should look like except from pictures. The fork pictured is The PO was charged for a shift kit about 4,000 miles ago but doesn't mean it was actually done.
It appears that the shiny area on the fork is MUCH bigger than the other. The thin one is more like a ridge that has been worn. I don't know what is normal. Thanks for any advise. And if I need to remove them what is the best way? Everything is in neutral. The thin shift fork is on the middle shaft and appears it is the type that will come off easily as it is open on the end.
It appears that the shiny area on the fork is MUCH bigger than the other. The thin one is more like a ridge that has been worn. I don't know what is normal. Thanks for any advise. And if I need to remove them what is the best way? Everything is in neutral. The thin shift fork is on the middle shaft and appears it is the type that will come off easily as it is open on the end.
#2
You should really keep your posts together in one thread so that it shows all the background info leading up to where you are now: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ail-plugs.html and https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ail-plugs.html
That being said, the shift fork in your second picture above needs to be replaced, it looks like the 3-4 shift fork. Tap the roll pin out and the shift rail will slide out of the hole on the back of the cover where the rubber plugs were. Be careful not to lose the detent ball when you pull it out. Then when you put it back together you replace the rubber plugs with the Dorman freeze plugs I gave you the number for in your previous thread.
You should not have to remove the steel plugs on the front of the cover (catalog illustration #30 from your previous thread) but if you do you have to replace them with the correct part that is listed in the catalog. The dorman freeze plugs will not work on the front because the shift rails move far enough forward when shifting into fourth gear that they will knock the plugs back out.
That being said, the shift fork in your second picture above needs to be replaced, it looks like the 3-4 shift fork. Tap the roll pin out and the shift rail will slide out of the hole on the back of the cover where the rubber plugs were. Be careful not to lose the detent ball when you pull it out. Then when you put it back together you replace the rubber plugs with the Dorman freeze plugs I gave you the number for in your previous thread.
You should not have to remove the steel plugs on the front of the cover (catalog illustration #30 from your previous thread) but if you do you have to replace them with the correct part that is listed in the catalog. The dorman freeze plugs will not work on the front because the shift rails move far enough forward when shifting into fourth gear that they will knock the plugs back out.
#3
Sorry about the threads. I started prematurely with the connection and got that removed and I hated to start ANOTHER thread as you are the second person to tell me this and I agree with you both. I have the freeze plugs you recommended and will put those in when I have cleaned the top shift plate.
Thank you for the help and I will order the fork now. Looks easy to do. The shop that I think screwed the old man PO show they did a shift kit about 3,000 miles ago. Does not appear to me it has been opened in forever. Regardless I will fix it properly.
Thank you for the help and I will order the fork now. Looks easy to do. The shop that I think screwed the old man PO show they did a shift kit about 3,000 miles ago. Does not appear to me it has been opened in forever. Regardless I will fix it properly.
#4
#6
Yes, you will have to order one using the part number for illustration #30 in the catalog. As mentioned above the Dorman freeze plugs will not work For those holes.
I'm surprised it isn't the middle one knocked out since that is he shift fork that is worn. The good news is that's where a lot of your oil leak probably came from.
To install, you can just insert the new dished plug and tap in the middle of it with a ball peen hammer to expand and seat the plug. I like to put a little #2 Permatex around the outer edge before installing to help seal it.
I'm surprised it isn't the middle one knocked out since that is he shift fork that is worn. The good news is that's where a lot of your oil leak probably came from.
To install, you can just insert the new dished plug and tap in the middle of it with a ball peen hammer to expand and seat the plug. I like to put a little #2 Permatex around the outer edge before installing to help seal it.
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#8
My vendor that shipped the fork did not have the front top cover plugs so I ordered them from another source. In the meantime I have had no success moving the center shift rail. I even removed the front plug so I could access it with a brass punch and it won't budge. All roll pins are out. Nothing is blocking the shaft. Perhaps it comes out from the front plug side? I have hit the shaft through the hole as hard as I care to without some advise. Any help before I get out the BFH.
I even put some PB Blaster on the shaft retainers hoping to get it to slide out.
I even put some PB Blaster on the shaft retainers hoping to get it to slide out.
#9
No, not unless it broke into a bunch of pieces.
If the roll pins are removed, the shift rails should tap out. Shouldn't matter which direction, I tapped mine out the back. Refer to this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
If the roll pins are removed, the shift rails should tap out. Shouldn't matter which direction, I tapped mine out the back. Refer to this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
#10
Thanks for the link. You had mentioned earlier about being careful of the detent ball. I never saw when this spring and head came out from somewhere. Was there a detent ball in there when it came out? Do you know where it goes? The diagram on the Midwest link you gave me is to small to tell.
The link mentions pressing the detent ball down to install and I can not see any. Sorry, I am trying.
I got aggressive with the rail and it will barely budge either way. Should I heat it up? Thanks again for your help. Lost without it. Sandy
The link mentions pressing the detent ball down to install and I can not see any. Sorry, I am trying.
I got aggressive with the rail and it will barely budge either way. Should I heat it up? Thanks again for your help. Lost without it. Sandy
#11
It appears that the part in the picture above goes where the roll punch is. The top has a slight worn grove from the rail. It appears that these are the only pieces that go in there.
I got aggressive with the center rail and it will barely budge either way. Should I heat it up or any other suggestion?
I got aggressive with the center rail and it will barely budge either way. Should I heat it up or any other suggestion?
#12
#13
I don't think many are looking at this thread because of the title. The fork move freely on the shaft and nothing is holding it. I put it in my vice with rubber jaws and used a 4lb sledge with a metal punch and a brass punch first. Moves about 1/16" either way. I think this rail must be bent before one of the securing points. It is going to have to be pressed out or beat to death. I am taking it to a transmission shop monday that a friend is personal friends with the owner. Will let you know. Merry Christmas Sandy. Thank you for all your help and suggestions. We tried.
#14
As of this post you have 236 views...you're doing fine. They only way you will get more visibility is if you make the subject "how to improve mpg" or " free beer."
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.