Dual Alternators (yes, this again.)
#1
Dual Alternators (yes, this again.)
.
I wanting to add a dual alt. setup to my 78' f150 with a 351m.
Already done the 3G swap, & it works admirably well.
But I desire a duel system. The second is for auxiliary reasons.
I'm plenty capable of wiring this system in,
heck I've built my own wiring harnesses before.
I just need help on the brackets/mounts & Main pulley selection.
Is there a bone-yard set-up I can cobble together.?
Or
Will I have to go full custom.?
_
P.S. It would be a bonus if I could get Dual-Groove pulleys on the alternators.
_
I wanting to add a dual alt. setup to my 78' f150 with a 351m.
Already done the 3G swap, & it works admirably well.
But I desire a duel system. The second is for auxiliary reasons.
I'm plenty capable of wiring this system in,
heck I've built my own wiring harnesses before.
I just need help on the brackets/mounts & Main pulley selection.
Is there a bone-yard set-up I can cobble together.?
Or
Will I have to go full custom.?
_
P.S. It would be a bonus if I could get Dual-Groove pulleys on the alternators.
_
#2
I had a hard time finding dual-groove pulleys that had the same size/depth sheave for my 3G. In the end I used one that didn't have the right sheave and turned it on my lathe to make it right. I show how I did that here: Alternator - ???Gary's Garagemahal.
Also, I discovered that the sheaves I was intending to use on my crank pulley's were of differing sizes. With a lot of searching I found one that had the same size sheaves. But, I don't remember what it came from, although I think I stated what it was off of some place in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilemma-34.html. Good luck!
Also, I discovered that the sheaves I was intending to use on my crank pulley's were of differing sizes. With a lot of searching I found one that had the same size sheaves. But, I don't remember what it came from, although I think I stated what it was off of some place in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilemma-34.html. Good luck!
#3
I had a hard time finding dual-groove pulleys that had the same size/depth sheave for my 3G. In the end I used one that didn't have the right sheave and turned it on my lathe to make it right. I show how I did that here: Alternator - ???Gary's Garagemahal.
Also, I discovered that the sheaves I was intending to use on my crank pulley's were of differing sizes. With a lot of searching I found one that had the same size sheaves. But, I don't remember what it came from, although I think I stated what it was off of some place in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilemma-34.html. Good luck!
Also, I discovered that the sheaves I was intending to use on my crank pulley's were of differing sizes. With a lot of searching I found one that had the same size sheaves. But, I don't remember what it came from, although I think I stated what it was off of some place in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilemma-34.html. Good luck!
Well, I thinking on using this one.
But I haven't sized mine yet to know for sure.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...MobileSwitchNo
#5
It doesn't say what size of belts it uses. You have to match belt width on the alternator pulley with the crank pulley. And, the crank pulley has to have sheaves the same diameter since the alternator's pulley has sheaves of the same diameter. But the stock 351M crank pulley doesn't, in my experience.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
.
It's still all still drawing board stuff @ the time being.
Heck, I'm running on a single belt right now.
But sense the truck is running stock electric gear.
There has been no real draw on it.
-
Now I am running a marine deep cycle batt. with a 58-Farad capacitor bank inline to the starter.
& I've added 6-Gage Grounds from the Batt. to the
Alt. case, Starter case, Radiator support & around a 16-Gadge to the starter solenoid body mount.
Now just about every bulb have been switched to good LED's &
not those cheapO's one gets @ the truck stop.
The flashers/hazards have been switched to solid state as well.
I do still have the halogen headlights but, I hardly run them due the fact I have two LED 60° flood lights for driving @ night & they only consume 36-Watts combined.
& sometime later I'll install a PMGR starter to draw even less amps than the stock one.
I'm planning on adding a second deep cycle batt. if not a small bank of them later on.
I do know the Alt. won't like charging a bank of deep-cycle batt's plus the truck's needs.
So that's part of the reason for adding a aux. second sys. to the truck.
Like I said, I can safely wire this sys. in.
Just need some help designing a dual 3G bracket/mount.
I've been thinking that some kind of single plane mount for two T-mounts mated back-to-back could work better in the space provided.
Just haven't sketched any ideas up yet…
It's still all still drawing board stuff @ the time being.
Heck, I'm running on a single belt right now.
But sense the truck is running stock electric gear.
There has been no real draw on it.
-
Now I am running a marine deep cycle batt. with a 58-Farad capacitor bank inline to the starter.
& I've added 6-Gage Grounds from the Batt. to the
Alt. case, Starter case, Radiator support & around a 16-Gadge to the starter solenoid body mount.
Now just about every bulb have been switched to good LED's &
not those cheapO's one gets @ the truck stop.
The flashers/hazards have been switched to solid state as well.
I do still have the halogen headlights but, I hardly run them due the fact I have two LED 60° flood lights for driving @ night & they only consume 36-Watts combined.
& sometime later I'll install a PMGR starter to draw even less amps than the stock one.
I'm planning on adding a second deep cycle batt. if not a small bank of them later on.
I do know the Alt. won't like charging a bank of deep-cycle batt's plus the truck's needs.
So that's part of the reason for adding a aux. second sys. to the truck.
Like I said, I can safely wire this sys. in.
Just need some help designing a dual 3G bracket/mount.
I've been thinking that some kind of single plane mount for two T-mounts mated back-to-back could work better in the space provided.
Just haven't sketched any ideas up yet…
#7
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#8
A properly-built 3G can put out 160 amps, regardless of the number of batteries. It isn't the number of batteries that determines the current/time needed to charge, but the amount of energy used from them that has to be replenished. So, unless you have a huge draw, like a killer sound system, one should be fine.
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