Hello all, I have a 2008 1st generation F250 6.4l. It has 78K miles on it. I have had zero problems with it. I mean Zero.. It has always had a dirty tail pipe since day one. It regens at exactly 670 miles, everytime. I believe the DPF is cracked resulting in it regening at 670 miles by computer default mileage. Anyway, deleted at 45K miles and went to H&S. I love the truck so much, but have been reading about failures. So, here are my plans for upgrades and feel welcome to tell me I am crazy or suggest other solutions. It is not going to be hot rodded, just want a truck that will last. If I thought the truck would only have a 125000 engine, I would send it down the road. SO>>> I plan on.
EGR delete
FASS pump and filtration
No limit cold air intake
CCV reroute to can
H&S atmo waste gate dump
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto intercooler
new radiator hoses and belts.
That is it! Comments please.. Been saving up and ready to go.
Thanks all!

 

That list is about as close as you can get to bulletproofing a 6.4.

 

I would add a coolant fiter, airdog and oil bypass filter to your list.

i would also use the severe duty service interval.

I would also use a fuel lube additive live opti-lube.

congrats on now problems thus far.

make sure you use all the ford recomended additives such as coolant additive, limited slip additive, etc.

if you idle a lot, get an idle speed control kit which will boost idle speed to 1100 which will help with oil presure to rockers.

 

Thanks SpeakerFritz.
I am leaning towards a FASS T F 16 150G, read a bunch on both air dog and FASS. Chose Fass. Hope that is OK.

I use Ford fuel additive
Change oil every 5000 miles and fuel filters at 10,000 miles
Did a coolant change at 50K miles.
Thanks for the input on the coolant filter, looking at that now.
Changed rear/front end lube to mobile 1 synthetic with additive in it at 50K
Changed Transmission fluid to full synthetic at 50K
Truck is 90% all freeway. No idling

Too bad we have to do all of this to keep them alive. But, love the truck
Brad

 

keep an eye on oil level...some have reported growing oil level due to regen's.

you probally have good success since you are all freeway miles. us city folks have a lot of stop and go, lots of idling, more short trips to the candy store than long trips that would let the beast breathe.

I also did not mention the front end body bushings...between them going out and excessive frame flexing...its caused radiator compression and leaks. the frame bushings are easy to replace if they were never removed and re-installed with an impact gun. I put a front hitch on my truck to box in the front chasis and hopefully reduce the chances of the truck using the radiator as the chasis end.

 

I bought mine w/53k 2 1/2 yrs ago, now has 145k.
Deleted only w Gearbox Z at 96K.
Normal oil and filter changes at 5000 to 7000 mi intervals.
Two batteries last week. ATF changed twice (first gear engagement now has a 5 second hesitation that started a year ago and hasn't really changed).
Lower radiator hose, thermostats and temp sensor changed this spring due to temp spikes while towing (fixed!)
But now I'm getting concerned about rocker arms and dread having this done.
Good luck w yours.

 

Im doing my rockers now.


There are a zazillion hoses, connectors, mechanical brackets , etc that had to be removed.

I had to break the locktight on all chasis cab bolts so I could jack up the cab on any given side depending on what I was trying to do.

I disconnected the steering bolt

so basically the drivers side was pretty easy to remove the covers for. I found a bunch of badly worn tips and 1 rocker laying on the floor.

the pax side was a little messy to get to. lots of hoses, connectors, brackets, etc. had to jack that side of the cab up and reposition the cab depending on which valve bolt I was trying to get to.

on the pax side, the side and bottom bolts were easier to get to from the wheel well. the four top bolts from the engine compartment.

on the driver side....I was able to get all the bolts out from the engine compartment.

so now, the covers are off and this weekend Ill start on the rockers.

bought a ignition trigger shwitch to attempt to roll the motor over to move the rockers into the correct torqure position. there is a proceedure on those.

I was wondering what more I would have to take off to replace the fuel pump since most of the fuel failure repair items are being replaced as part of this job since the lines are 1 time use.

once I get all the rocker off...I need to inspect and magnetic wand probe all the lifter holes for metal. there is a rocker bearing and rocker bridge somewhere in the motor.

i wish I could do the lifters but that would mean too much work for an in place repair.

also bought 2 sets of push rods, stock and stage 1 molly. not sure which I will use yet.

 

Thanks SpeakerFritz. I wish there was a way to determine if the rockers need servicing. Something like a noise test, maybe a scope into the valve covers. Something either than a complete tear apart. I have been read where others with over 100K miles have had no wear. Also read it is from not using CJ4 oil or excessive idling. My truck has 77000 miles and about 1950 hours and have used the correct CJ4 oil.

 

well there is a noise test that will tell you you are at the max wear of the tips....max meaning you could wind up with a slipped ball bearing and fallen of cracked rockers.

the test is to listen to you engine from the engine intake area. if you hear a thump, thump, thump noise that means your valves are not fully opening and closing.

another test is when using 5W40 oil, if your engine sounds like some one is shaking a tool box.

other indicators are

increases of fuel in oil due to poor combustion...the fuel lines the cylinder walls and gets mixed with oil,
increases of blue smoke due to poor combustion,
poor fuel milage,
idle performance problem (mine would wrench after 50 seconds if I didnt bump the idle up to 800).
shudder in the drive train when the torque converter locks (4th/5th gear) at about 40 MPH when you let off on the fuel.....the engine is able to rotate smoothly when pedal is pressed becuase fuel is being injected...but with the pedal released...the lack of proper air due to limted intake valve height causes suction which causes and engine shudder.

one problem to watch out for...if you drop an intake rocker...you get loud thump...thump noises as well as aggrevated symptons of the above. BUT, if you drop an exhaust rocker....engine could hydro lock due to taking in air and fuel...but not being able to exhuast it correctly.

another problem of dropped rockers is if the push rod pops out of the lifter hole...the push rod could mangle the lifter . if you drop a rocker and the push rod is still inserted in the lifter, thats a good thing. if you see about a half inch wear mark on the top of the push rod about an inch below the ball, thats also a good thing becuase it means your lifter is still working correctly and the push rod did not pop out of the lifeter during engine operation.