i have a 2006 f150. recently the engine started running not too smooth so i decided to change the coils and plugs, motorcraft original ones (previous owner replaced the coils only with some crap after market ones). i was lucky to get them all out. at this time i also replaced the fuel filter and replaced the oil with motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend oil. after a few days, i started to get the dreaded ticking. after reading some posts i decided to replace the VCT solenoids through the openings in the valve covers. installed new seals as well. noise continued. I figured maybe the oil was the problem, since i changed from conventional to synthetic blend. i replaced the oil but the issue continues. it sounds like the loudest i hear the noise is on the bottom of the motor. but listening closely i can hear the noise from both valve covers. what else can i do to diagnose this more properly. i bought this truck used and the engine sounded amazing, now it sounds like its about to fall apart!

 

Make sure you dont have a loose spark plug or leaking exhaust gasket. The roller rockers are bad for failing and will cause a tick noise as the seized roller drags on the cam lobe.

 

I agree with longbed. Pull the plug coils and look for soot or any sign that the plugs are loose. You can even gently put loosening pressure on them with a 9/16 deep socket, to see if there are any loose ones, but don't exceed about 5 ft lbs testing. I'm going to say just use a deep well with an extension and try to loosen the plug by by gripping the extension and turning it that way. If you can't loosen it that way, it's tight enough.

If all is good, look for soot around the exhaust manifolds and see if the noise gets quieter as the truck warms up. That is a dead ringer for an exhaust leak. If it gets worse, as the truck warms up, then it is probably something inside. Now we need to figure out what inside. Rev the motor to about 1800 - 2000 rpm and see if the noise is still there. If it goes away, it is likely phasers, if not than it is something else.

BTW, it probably isn't anything you did, at least not from a thing like changing the oil, but I guess if you were really curious, you could put the same oil you used to use and see if that changes anything. Wouldn't hurt I guess. That being said, It probably just happened.
Hope this helps.

 

I am also going to add that the specification for spark plug torque is 25 foot pounds on 3 valve engines of the 2006 model year. If you did not torque them you should put on anti-seize and torque the plugs to spec. That will rule out plugs as being the source of the ticking for sure. Ford reccomends a nickel-based anti-seize, FYI. Not sure how important that is, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

 

I will try to check the plugs again. Reving does not change anything, it rattles just faster, and i pretty much changed the oil back to conventional as soon as the issue started. Also now im noticing a minor leak by the oil pan, DAMN motorcraft oil!

 

Post a video with sound

 

If the ticking is still there, than it likely isn't vct or Phaser related.


Here is my guess: If the plugs are tight and oil pressure is good, it is an exhaust leak or there is a bad tensioner causing oil to the top end to starve and now you have a seizing/worn rocker (Ford calls them followers).


Really inspect the exhaust for leaks. If nothing, locate the tick with a dowel or mechanic's stethoscope. If it's inside the top of the engine somewhere, you will just have to open it up to find it, no bother *****footing about it at that point.


When I got that far, I just resigned myself to replace everything on the top end, meaning phasers, chain, adjusters, followers, timing chain tensioner , tensioner arms and guides and an oil pump. Might as well when you are that far in it.


Buying online I got everything for around 1300 bucks, plus about 300 in extra tools that I didn't have (and I have a lot).. I used all Ford parts except the timing chain itself, the lower crank sprocket and the engine seals. Tensioners must be Ford. Phasers must be Ford. Chain guides must be Ford. As my issue was due to a low oil condition I replaced all followers and adjusters (rockers and lifters, for the informal). I also had to replace the passenger cam, so good news for you if it isn't trashed, you can probably get everything for around a grand if you shop smart. Oil pump was a Melling M360 high volume pump. It is a real bear to get in, and it cost me about 2 hours, but it was worth it. I might have gone a bit overboard, but the truck is whisper smooth now, and I know that's the last time I go in.


Believe me, You will have hours and hours in this thing if you do what I did, at least 20 if this is your first time and you do everything slowly, check everything and reassemble following the Ford method. There is so much stuff to take off, that you will just want to replace everything and do it once.


For tools you will need a full SAE and Metric socket set in at least 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive (I mean full- to cover 5mm to 30mm, deeps are helpful too), a full SAE and Metric wrench set from 8mm to 22mm, an impact gun for the crank pulley, 2 pry bars, one small one big, a 1/2 inch breaker bar, 3/8 and 1/4 inch extensions between 3 and 8 inches, a hemostat to retrieve bolts lost or needing to go in, an 8mm flex head ratchet wrench for the oil pump bolts, a 1/2 drive socket at least for the crank pulley, a pulley removal tool, and the Rotunda cam follower tool or equivalent, plus inch pound and foot pound wrenches. It took 3 torque wrenches to cover everything for me. Oh yeah, and a big a** hammer and monkey wrench to knock the fan nut off. You may be able to get away with less, but it will cost you time.


If you aren't ready for that, then it may be trade in time.


If you are ready for that, then I highly suggest you check out Ford Tech Makuloco's site on youtube. He has a great 4 part series on how to do the job the right way. A video is worth 1,000,000 words. Also, FYI, if this is a 2006, then I can assure you that you CAN pull the pass cover without pulling the AC lines or pulling the mount and dropping the engine down, even with a 5.4 (I'm assuming yours is a 5.4). I did it, and all it requires is pulling the wheel well liner out (remember those 5mm sockets I mentioned) and loosen the accumulator and push it almost off its bolts. Cover comes right off, no problem, and the lines really aren't as in the way as I thought they'd be. Might as well replace the passenger front (Bank 1 sensor 1) O2 sensor since it is right there; wish I had.


Another shortcut is to follow my guide on replacing the followers. Just search my posts. By doing so you can save putting in 18 of the 24 followers, and still be confident nothing was harmed in doing so.


Torque everything. Do not skip any steps. Follow Ford tightening specs and sequences (including covers, which are mighty laborious to do on 04-06 vehicles) and you will have a quality job that lasts for years.


Last tip, I got the pump on Amazon (130 bucks; you can do better, they are 99 sometimes, I just couldn't find the right place and needed to get it ordered), and other parts from Tasca and Freedom Racing, depending on who had what cheaper, and who had the latest revision (followers are from Tasca because of that). I got a Motorcraft water pump on Ebay (pulled from new engine) for 30 bucks and I used Gates hoses and belts from my local NAPA. I also had to get a Gates ribbed idler pulley for the belt as mine was noisy, but you will be luckier I hope.


Good luck, and hope this was helpful.