chenge of a distributor on 4.9L 300 Cu
#1
#2
Hello Yaesu, welcome to the forums.
Any time you mess with the distributor, you should check the timing.
Either way, for us to help, you need to provide more information. Your issue is very vague at best.
For starters, why did you think it was the distributor?
What year is your truck?
Does it start and run with the new distributor?
Why do you still think there is a problem?
Any time you mess with the distributor, you should check the timing.
Either way, for us to help, you need to provide more information. Your issue is very vague at best.
For starters, why did you think it was the distributor?
What year is your truck?
Does it start and run with the new distributor?
Why do you still think there is a problem?
#3
#4
Hi, Let me give you more info.On saturday the engine suddenly stopped on the road.It was cranking but did not start.I towed it to my house.We checked spark with my friend.There is no spark.Changed distributor still not spark,changed coil but spark didnt come back.Mechanic said it is wiring problem or computer it will be to expensive to fix .he said 1600$ to fix.So i decided to detect and fix problem myself.Have background in electronic engineering.About van : Ford Econoline E-150 1988 4.9L 300Cu .
I was at work and didnot have much time to mess with truck.During holidays will look closer what to do.And wanted to know about timing and how to set it correctly on this engine.And if anyone has schematic diagram of ignition that would be helpful too.
I was at work and didnot have much time to mess with truck.During holidays will look closer what to do.And wanted to know about timing and how to set it correctly on this engine.And if anyone has schematic diagram of ignition that would be helpful too.
#5
First things first, you need to rule out that you didn't shred your timing gears. They're fiber, and they can disintegrate after a lot of miles, which will make the engine suddenly die.
To test this, take the cap off of the distributor. Then, turn the engine over a few times and be sure that the distributor rotates appropriately with the engine. If it does not move, or moves in small amounts randomly, then you more than likely lost your timing gear teeth and will need to remedy that problem.
If that's the case, you'll need to drop the oil pan and clean out all the pieces of fiber and teeth. Then, remove the radiator, pull the harmonic balancer, remove the timing cover, and then pull off the timing gears and replace them with new ones. The 300 is a non-interference engine, so there should be no issues with the engine and you should be able to button it all up and fire it right back up.
If it's not the timing gears, then you could always try a different ECU from the junk yard. However, just randomly dying on the spot seems like a strange symptom for an ECU. At least, in my experience.
To test this, take the cap off of the distributor. Then, turn the engine over a few times and be sure that the distributor rotates appropriately with the engine. If it does not move, or moves in small amounts randomly, then you more than likely lost your timing gear teeth and will need to remedy that problem.
If that's the case, you'll need to drop the oil pan and clean out all the pieces of fiber and teeth. Then, remove the radiator, pull the harmonic balancer, remove the timing cover, and then pull off the timing gears and replace them with new ones. The 300 is a non-interference engine, so there should be no issues with the engine and you should be able to button it all up and fire it right back up.
If it's not the timing gears, then you could always try a different ECU from the junk yard. However, just randomly dying on the spot seems like a strange symptom for an ECU. At least, in my experience.
#7
Ok good.
Yes, that more than likely means it's okay. Unlike most other engines, there is no chain, so the timing cannot skip a tooth. The 300 is gear to gear, so skipping a tooth would mean some pretty catastrophic damage to the timing gears.
If the engine turning properly turns the distributor, then yeah, sounds like it's solid.
Now, when you put the distributor back in, how did you put it in? Did you put it in the same way it came out? Or did you reset the timing to base 0 and start from scratch?
It's very possible that you simply stripped the distributor gear pin (which I've done, and it's an instant engine kill) and the old distributor was pointing in any of the random directions. So, if you put it back in the way it came out, you'd be pointing the new distributor in the wrong direction and you'll need to set the timing from scratch.
Yes, that more than likely means it's okay. Unlike most other engines, there is no chain, so the timing cannot skip a tooth. The 300 is gear to gear, so skipping a tooth would mean some pretty catastrophic damage to the timing gears.
If the engine turning properly turns the distributor, then yeah, sounds like it's solid.
Now, when you put the distributor back in, how did you put it in? Did you put it in the same way it came out? Or did you reset the timing to base 0 and start from scratch?
It's very possible that you simply stripped the distributor gear pin (which I've done, and it's an instant engine kill) and the old distributor was pointing in any of the random directions. So, if you put it back in the way it came out, you'd be pointing the new distributor in the wrong direction and you'll need to set the timing from scratch.
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#9
Yes, it's quite simple. However, I'm not sure if it's different on an EFI (although I don't think it is).
1: Remove the #1 spark plug and rotate the engine clockwise until you feel compression in the cylinder. This will insure that it's on the compression stroke.
2: Bring the #1 cylinder up to the very top. You can do this by placing a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turning the engine until it peaks out. Or, I just shine a flashlight down the hole and look at it. You can see when it's at the top.
3: Look at your timing marks. The timing mark on the balancer should be at the 0 timing mark on the engine (or close to it). If it's NOT, then your harmonic balancer is slipped and it should be replaced before continuing.
4: Rotate the engine slightly until the timing is where you want it, generally around 10°. So, the mark on the harmonic balancer should be pointing to the 10° tick on the engine.
5: Point the rotor on the distributor in the direction of the #1 spark plug post on the cap.
6: Insert the distributor into the engine. You may have to try a few different angles or rock the engine slightly to get it to go in.
7: Remove the rotor from the distributor.
8: Look down the distributor and rotate it slightly until the closest arm on the stator (the six armed star down at the bottom) is lined up between the two marks on the magnetic pick up.
9: Put everything back together and fire it up.
After that, you can remove the SPOUT connector and check your timing with a timing light, but it should be very close to where you want it.
1: Remove the #1 spark plug and rotate the engine clockwise until you feel compression in the cylinder. This will insure that it's on the compression stroke.
2: Bring the #1 cylinder up to the very top. You can do this by placing a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turning the engine until it peaks out. Or, I just shine a flashlight down the hole and look at it. You can see when it's at the top.
3: Look at your timing marks. The timing mark on the balancer should be at the 0 timing mark on the engine (or close to it). If it's NOT, then your harmonic balancer is slipped and it should be replaced before continuing.
4: Rotate the engine slightly until the timing is where you want it, generally around 10°. So, the mark on the harmonic balancer should be pointing to the 10° tick on the engine.
5: Point the rotor on the distributor in the direction of the #1 spark plug post on the cap.
6: Insert the distributor into the engine. You may have to try a few different angles or rock the engine slightly to get it to go in.
7: Remove the rotor from the distributor.
8: Look down the distributor and rotate it slightly until the closest arm on the stator (the six armed star down at the bottom) is lined up between the two marks on the magnetic pick up.
9: Put everything back together and fire it up.
After that, you can remove the SPOUT connector and check your timing with a timing light, but it should be very close to where you want it.
#11
#12
by the way didnt see any cylinder marks on distributor itself. There is only one sign on cap "1" . Thats all.how to set rotor pointing to 1 st cylinder?
#13
#14
The distributor should have a clamp and then a bolt that goes through the clamp. It's nothing fancy. That's all it needs to stay in place.
The clamp on mine is about 1/2" thick and about 1" wide/long.
This is an aftermarket one, but it's very similar:
That's all it needs.
The clamp on mine is about 1/2" thick and about 1" wide/long.
This is an aftermarket one, but it's very similar:
That's all it needs.
#15