Guys, I maybe been driving my truck now with the new motor for maybe 30 miles, I noticed where I been parking it has like 4 huge stains, the pans leaking valve covers gaskets leaking, trans leaking, trans lines covered in oil, steering box leaking ALOT, I dont know whether to cry on my knees over this bit or not,.. Any ideas where to start?

 

1st one I'd do is the one that you have to dig the deepest to fix and then just work your way out.

 

Where to start? Replace any gaskets that you can while keeping the engine in the truck, these trucks after sitting or even after age will need new gaskets. Just an fyi, do not buy the crappy rubber valve cover gaskets. mine did not fit right and now mine leaks a lot unfortunately.

 

You said new motor, who built the motor?

 

Just realized your post says new motor, well start by checking how tight your bolts are. If they are tight I´d contact the dummy that rebuilt it

 

Well the dummy would be me, I bought it as a short block, i did everything else the, the driver side valve cover leaks at rear corner, and the valve covers are the cast aluminum, I can wipe the oil pan down and not drive it and it will be soaked overnight, I checked all my bolts there all tight, I flattend the pan rail holes before I installed the pan,

 

The pan shouldn't leak over night, the oil level doesn't come up high enough to reach the top of the pan.. Unless it's over filled?. Oil may be coming from another location.

 

Thats the million dollar question, where is the oil coming from ive found power steering fluid, trans fluid and engine oil.. But is it really possible to get these old motors to be leak free?

 

With all of the leaks, it sounds as though you didn't torque the fasteners, or you have distorted parts. The intake manifold is notorious for leaks. Do the head and intake surfaces match?

 

New motor that leaks you say?? Time for a retorque on EVERYTHING with new gaskets. It suck to have to do so but take everything off and start with retorquing the heads and work your way up. Changing the head gaskets is optional but if your torque is way off, I'd get another set and put fresh gaskets in and torque properly then work your way up and out. If your heads are torqued just fine, work from there and put in new intake manifold gaskets and torque to spec. Remember, everything usually needs torqued again after a few good heat cycles...

 

New gaskets and proper torque . on timing cover seal be sure to oil seal so it doesn't dry start and tear seal . I just resealed my C6 and i have only 1 leak left and thats a small power steering leak . I rebuilt the 390 and she doesn't drip a drop (fingers crossed )

 

on the oil pan make sure the surface is flat and mounts flush i have see them be a little wonky and they don't fit right and leak, same with trans pan, make sure its not wonky. same can be said for for valve covers, if you're using aluminium heads and or an aluminium intake make sure to re-torque them after a heat cycle. it will save gaskets.

 

When you assembled it did you use sealer on both sides of the gaskets?
Doing so makes the gaskets very slippery and I've see them split in half when over tightened. Only use sealer on one side of a gasket to help hold it in place while installing a part then torque to spec.
You said the pan and valve cover gaskets but check the back of the intake for leaks as this is where the biggest leak problem occurs on FE engines, if the intake isn't leaking leave it in place and fix the oil pan and valve cover leaks. Be careful tightening down those cast valve covers, more than one has had the ends broke from over tightening.
Did you replace the front pump seal in the transmission while the engine was out, if not shame on you.
The pitman arm is a pain to get off but replacing the lower steering shaft seal normally fix's the steering leak.