Emissions delete 1991 F-150
#1
10-26-2016, 12:18 PM
Emissions delete 1991 F-150
My injection manifold/rail of the EGR system is broken and leaking exhaust so I can't pass inspection. It was replaced 10 years ago and it'll be $800 for the shop to repair.
Is there a guide on here to delete this system entirely? If I save the money and fix it myself I'm going to delete it rather than repair so that I don't have to deal with it again. I don't have smog inspections and I'm not concerned about gas mileage.
Truck is a 1991 F-150 300 I-6 EFI, 4x4, Standard transmission
Is there a guide on here to delete this system entirely? If I save the money and fix it myself I'm going to delete it rather than repair so that I don't have to deal with it again. I don't have smog inspections and I'm not concerned about gas mileage.
Truck is a 1991 F-150 300 I-6 EFI, 4x4, Standard transmission
Last edited by enrgizerbunny; 10-26-2016 at 12:20 PM. Reason: Forgot truck description
#2
10-26-2016, 01:27 PM
Pull the green vacuum hose off the EGR solenoid and cap it. You don't want the computer to think the EGR is working properly when it isn't. Leave the sensor plugged in.
If you need to pass visual inspection then you should remove the compression fittings that hold the tube to the manifold and valve, place a quarter under the bottom one, a penny under the top one, apply liberal amounts of anti-sieze and reassemble.
If you don't need to pass visual and want to remove the tube completely, replace the fitting in the exhuast manifold with a 3/4 pipe plug. I used the BlueBlock thread and gasket sealant they sell at HomeDepot and it worked great (I wanted to see if it would hold up to the temp, the answer is yes)
If you don't like looking at the non-functional EGR you have several options.
An ERG delete plate ($20) will cover the holl but since it's pretty expensive for a piece of aluminum with two holes in it I'd recommend that you make your own. If you've got metal around you can use that. Use the EGR valve as a template for the holes. Use an EGR gasket to seal that to the manifold. You could put a rubber plug in the manifold, tap it for pipe threads, cut the valve off the EGR and fill the hole with JBweld (or real weld), the possibilities are basically endless.
As for dealing with the sensor if after you remove the valve, do some reading. IIRC if the sensor stays in the "closed" position all the time you won't get a light but I might be wrong on that. Either way, use a multi-meter (cheap one will be fine) and JBweld to ensure that the plunger stays in whatever position won't result in a check engine light. Zip tie it somewhere out of the way, preferably out of sight.
TL;DR, plug the holes however you want, hit the books to figure out how to keep the engine light off.
If you need to pass visual inspection then you should remove the compression fittings that hold the tube to the manifold and valve, place a quarter under the bottom one, a penny under the top one, apply liberal amounts of anti-sieze and reassemble.
If you don't need to pass visual and want to remove the tube completely, replace the fitting in the exhuast manifold with a 3/4 pipe plug. I used the BlueBlock thread and gasket sealant they sell at HomeDepot and it worked great (I wanted to see if it would hold up to the temp, the answer is yes)
If you don't like looking at the non-functional EGR you have several options.
An ERG delete plate ($20) will cover the holl but since it's pretty expensive for a piece of aluminum with two holes in it I'd recommend that you make your own. If you've got metal around you can use that. Use the EGR valve as a template for the holes. Use an EGR gasket to seal that to the manifold. You could put a rubber plug in the manifold, tap it for pipe threads, cut the valve off the EGR and fill the hole with JBweld (or real weld), the possibilities are basically endless.
As for dealing with the sensor if after you remove the valve, do some reading. IIRC if the sensor stays in the "closed" position all the time you won't get a light but I might be wrong on that. Either way, use a multi-meter (cheap one will be fine) and JBweld to ensure that the plunger stays in whatever position won't result in a check engine light. Zip tie it somewhere out of the way, preferably out of sight.
TL;DR, plug the holes however you want, hit the books to figure out how to keep the engine light off.
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