I have a 97 ranger with 3.0 it runs great but once you drive it and shut it off and go to restart it it will turn over but not start it used to start once I let pressure off the fuel rail,but now is a little harder to start when it does this but it looks as thou coolant comes out of the resivuar when this happens I think it might be coolant sensor or thermostat problem causing the timing to advance until it cools but then again why was it starting when I released pressure from the fuel rail can anyone give me input or advice on this and also I don't believe my check engine light works any help with that

 

Welcome to FTE.
If the CEL doesn't come on for it's self check when you go to KOEO before cranking the engine, it may be burned out, especially if it's been on & ignored for a while.
Use your fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure & flow rate over time & use your ELM scan tool running FORScan or the like software on the viewing device of your choice to scan the computer for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers & the fuel pressure & flow rate readings.
If the fuel is old winter vapor pressure gas, it could be vapor locking from engine heat & warmer weather.
Use the ELM to monitor the ECT to see if you have a coolant over temp problem. If so, look to a sticking closed thermostat, clogged radiator if coolant is in bad shape, or maybe a slipping serp belt, or faulty fan clutch if the over heat symptoms seem to come about at low speeds, or at idle when no, or little air is coming through the radiator. If all those check out ok, look for plastic bags, leaves, critter nests, ect obstructions between the radiator & AC condenser that's restricting air flow.
If all that's ok, check the radiator cap to make sure it's sealing & holding pressure well.
Some beginning thoughts for consideration, give us some more clues & maybe the forum can make a more focused guess on where best to look next.

 

Fuel pressure is good sitting around 40 psi or so and holds pressure hooked up scanner it gave me codes even thou cel was off cylinder 3 misfire, cylinder 4 misfire, evap emission purge valve malfunction,and oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2 I looked at the live data truck idles around 940 coolant temps look good but this was just at idle as far as a thermo stat and fan clutch go I'm going to replace both seeing as thou I all ready have them but I don't think that will remedy my problem since it has never overheated in the no start condition but I have cleared the codes seeing as thou they could be old since cel is not working I'm gonna sit and see if the come back up what should be next on my check list

 

Carry your fuel pressure & vacuum gauges & timing light with you & test when it acts out & won't restart, to see what's going missing. Scroll down here How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge to review various vacuum gauge scenarios when using the gauge to test the engine condition.
If you've had a misfire for some time, the cat converter may have been damaged & you have a clogged exhaust from converter matrix over heating & melt down, to process the extra unburned misfire fuel & there is a vacuum gauge clogged exhaust test scenario, along with a blown head gasket scenario.
The O2 sensor code says the after cat converter O2 sensor, on the cyl bank with the misfire, is seeing a problem with the cat converter, or the after cat sensor may have a problem.
Again, would be helpful if you'd post the trouble code Numbers you found.

 

And the codes are p1443,p0136,p0303,p0304 but I've thought it might be timing I will plug in my scanner or use timing light next time to check timing to see if it's out when won't start and I've checked fuel flow and pressure with seemed good now I will have to move on to checking with vacuum gauge I'll be doing allot of driving this weekend I'll post more then

 

When it won't restart, use the timing light to safely check for spark going missing from a heat soak.

 

Thats ideally when it won't start after a soak cause when hot and shut off it will start right back up just fine it's when it has set hot for 10 minutes or more no spark might be my problem I will check that would that be the coil or a temp sensor possibly

 

Ok, that's good feedback. You may have more than one problem. With the no start problem happening after a hot soak, makes me want to put the coil pack on the suspect list & the reason I suggested using your timing light to check for spark when it won't start. Cyls 3 & 4 share the same coil pack secondary winding, so if it's suffering electrical break down after a heat soak, you might find cracks in it's case.
They like to crack out of sight underneath too, so lift the coil pack for a careful look-see under there for arcing signs, like carbon traces, or maybe after dark perform a wet down test with a spray bottle of water, looking for a arcs & sparks light show, or change in idle. Look closely around the 3/4 cyl coil for problems, seeing as how you have codes for those cyls & they share the same coil pack high voltage secondary winding.
Make sure the plug wires are good with an end to end continuity/resistance check(they should measure something like 1000 ohms/inch of length, 30K ohms Max, no matter the length.
Make sure the #3 & 4 plug wires are properly seated into the coil pack & plugs & are routed as the factory had them, using all stand offs & wire looms.
The O2 sensor fault code is for it's Circuit, so check the wiring, electrical connector pins/sockets.
On the evap system vacuum code, look to the evap canister purge solenoid or purge control valve & connecting hoses for loose fit, dry rot, ect.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I will check all of these after work and inform you of what I find