Vanes are indefinably stuck. Pull the turbo and clean it

 

What would be the symptoms of the turbo vanes being stuck?

I'm having trouble finding 15w40 full synthetic here, any idea where I can find it?
I seem to only be able to find Motorcraft and Valvoline blends or Mobil 1, Shell 5W40 full synthetic?
I have a filter and a bottle of additive.
I'm leery of going to 5w40, the manual and the dealer both say 15W40?

 

Later printings of the manual specified 5W40 across the entire operating range, there are no negative effects to running it. Shear stability of the oil is an issue, but at a 5k mile OCI it doesn't really matter.

 

Bummer that you're having trouble despite taking so many precautions during layup to prevent this! One question, did you run the engine with the new oil in it before laying up the truck?

 

It was driven from the dealer who serviced it to the house where I stored it, ( a relatives place), the tank was filled to the top with the thought that it wouldn't condensate and all the fluids were topped off. The batteries were removed, (they sat on a maintenance charger for a few years but were taken off charge once they were beyond their useful life with the knowing that they would never make it back in the truck. I was told that if I could have drained them dry they may have survived but its got two brand new batteries in it now. One other thing that didn't survive was the hood insulation, it was sagging in the middle and had some chew holes in it from a mouse. I tossed it for now, from what I'm told the newer models didn't get one anyhow. It used to rub the turbo tube from day one anyhow. I may put one of those plastic liners on it but its not high on my list.

I dug out the old repair order from back then from the dealer, they wrote that i requested synthetic oil, but it don't say whether or not they put in Motorcraft blend or something else. Either way, we started the engine on that oil, ran it till it got hot and dumped the oil in favor of 16 qts of what I now see was Amsoil full synthetic 15W40 back then. When we changed it this time it got a quick change with Motorcraft blend, then it was sent off to the dealer for a full service, which included a trans service, oil change with 'Full Synthetic Oil" I had requested Mobil 1 or similar not knowing at the time there was no 15W40 in Mobile 1. I'm not sure what they used, but they charged me $219.95 for the oil change.
The bill is as follows:
RP15W40SYN x 16 --------- $124.96
MC2016 - O/F ------------- $22.99
labor .8 ------------------- $72.00

Judging the prices from what I see at Walmart to do it myself, the dealer isn't that far off but they didn't specify which oil they used other than the fact that the service manager said he had to send out for it because they never had anyone insist of full synthetic before in one of these. This was done about four or five weeks ago or 1300 miles ago.
I could have saved $72 if I changed the oil myself but it was already there for a list of recalls and for the trans service, which I didn't care to do on my garage floor here. So far its cost me just under a grand to get it back on the road. That includes the fuel filters, oil change, trans service, pumping the tank out and a computer diag fee.
I did have them save the old fuel, I don't see anything wrong with it and it should burn just fine in my furnace this winter. After all, when I filled the tank, diesel back then was just over $4 per gallon there. I saw no sense in just dumping it, and besides they wanted to charge me $50 to get rid of it. Chances are it would end up being taken home buy one of the techs there.

I think what I'll do is dump the oil out, go get 16 quarts of full synthetic Mobil 1 or other brand 5W40 and a fresh filter and this time add the Hotshot additive myself. I find it hard to accept that sitting there like that did any serious damage, I can picture maybe having the oil drained down and maybe getting some are in the oil system but not having injector damage. I can say that when it started up for the first time on the new batteries it cranked about 5 times and fired right up, it puffed some smoke a first but nothing major, (not at all like my old 7.3 would on really cold mornings), just some gray smoke the first few times I revved the engine up a bit to say 2000 or or so RPM. It never tapped, knocked, or did anything else wrong, it just idled real rough. Once it started it was driven around the yard a few times till the temp got up and we drained the oil and dumped in about 15 qts of fresh oil. We dumped the filter but reused it since it was still new, there was no moisture in the oil at all, and it looked brand new and clean. I bottled it up in the bottles it came out of back then that were still sitting in the bed of the truck along with a note stating all of what was done to the truck and not to try and start it without my being there.

The truck basically looks new, there's some wear on the floor mats from clay being tracked onto the mats back then, (the driveway is now stone), the bumpers are black and the paint is lifting off the top surfaces up front bumper bit.

The part that still gets me is that it can run this bad, even stall, and not set any fault codes?
I'm also not sure if its getting better or if I'm just getting used to it and working around the issues when I drive. It still bangs when it shifts and hunts for a gear on a slow rolling acceleration when its in the bottom of 2ng gear and you step down on the throttle to gain speed, it jumps into first, then back to second making a hard thump or bang. I didn't recall it doing that on the way to the dealer before the service but I was really going easy on it knowing it had sat all those years.

Even when this is all sorted out, this truck likely won't see more than a few hundred miles a year, I only use it for towing, and its not my only truck. It'll likely only get run when I need to tow something heavy or when I have a long distance to go. Otherwise my F150 or Ranger get used instead.

One of the reasons I never rushed to go back and get this truck out of storage is that it sort of got replaced over the years by other vehicles while I was living elsewhere. My towing needs changed over the years and I rarely need to tow anything big and rarely need a 4x4, let alone a diesel.
I like the truck now mainly for the extra cab, if my older F150 had rear doors that opened, I think this one would be for sale. It still might be once I get this sorted out. I'm sure someone else would appreciate a clean, super low miles truck.

I'll get a few pics of it if I get home one of these days before it gets dark out, I've been getting in around 8pm all week so far.

I'm also having some concerns about driving the truck like this. I'm afraid that it may do damage to the trans, rear or driveshaft with how hard the trans is shifting at times. Its fine from a start but when I get stuck in slow moving traffic it slams gears as I creep along below 30 mph. The one thing that really impressed me when I bought this truck was how smooth it rode and how smooth it shifted. Now it feels like a transmission tuned up for the drag strip.

 

Sounds like the mouse may have chewed some wires or pissed on connectors that corroded them.

 

without a live value reader it would be hard to tell but it seems your ECT sensor is bad telling the pcm that the truck is never warming up causing the high idle

 

Skip the Hotshots and order Archoil. It's better. The reason that I said to use Delo syn was it has a better read on the additives and you can get it at Wally world. If you want to spent the monies get Schaeffers,it the best out there.

 

The values I can read on the OTC scanner are as follows:
battery KOEO = 12.72
KOER = 14.27
MAF 1.47
Baro 4.6
VPR 14.77
APP 0
APP1 4.10
APP2 1.41
APP3 .89
ECT 171.20
FICM LPWR 14.77
FICM MPWR 47.72
FLI 77
FUELPW 880
IAT 72
IAT2 110
ICP 1.6
ICPDES 625.6
LOAD 12.7
MAP 1.39
MIL OFF
NM 0
RPM 1128 (This one changes between 928 and 1222 dep. on PRND Pos.)
RPM SD 625
VREF 5.02

The idle wanders a bit like a gas engine with a vacuum leak, every so often is surges three times, sort of like a programmed pattern, I hear the engine go quiet, then it recovers with the diesel sound coming on strong in three pulses a few seconds apart.
I don't think its shutting down when it goes quiet, it seems to be trying to correct its idle. When it surges the idle surges to 1900 RPM or so. If its in gear, you have to really hold the brakes to keep it from taking off. I'm a big guy and even I have to plant the brake at a stop light so it don't surge into the next vehicle. Its as if its stalling and the computer is trying to catch it by revving the engine. It used to idle rock steady with only moderate noise, now the engine is super loud as if its under load all the time. At first I thought the converter may have been locked up but I don't think that's the case since it does sit there and idle ok at times, and doesn't set any codes.

 

1900?! I would think that would start to overcome the brakes! Scary.

 

It sure feels like its about to.
The idle for the most part stays in the 1200 RPM range in Park, but when it surges it climbs to 1900.
In gear the trans holds it to about 950.

If I let it go it'll run almost highway speed with no throttle.

Again, how can it be doing all this without any fault codes or without putting a check engine light on?

The light works, its there on start up and I can induce codes by unplugging connectors.

 

You need a real scanner, you got to get all pids looked at,otherwise your looking into a fog.

 

ICPV at 1.6V is high for 625psi desired?

Bad ICP sensor? Sorry it's a PITA on an 03, but unplugging the ICP sensor would be a no-cost test.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-voltage.html

 

That's got to be the most expensive basic oil change Iv seen

 

Your idle seems really high. Mine doesn't do the "high idle" like a gas engine. Always runs around 700rpm. When cold it does bump up the IPR/ICP quite a bit which I assume it to make the engine warm up faster, but the rpms are the same cold or hot.