When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the wired version of that dongle and a Windows program that lets me read codes on my old laptop.
My notepad runs Windows 8, not Android. For what ever reason the bluetooth dongle won't work with this thing. The laptop refuses to recognize the dongle for some reason, I think its a matter of USB and Bluetooth versions.
My notepad won't recognize the wired dongle through the OTG cable/Adapter.
Today the truck started up and ran perfect all day, I drove the thing almost 400 miles without any issues, then about 3000 ft from my driveway tonight it acted up again. I was sitting at a stop light and all of a sudden the idle raced up to 2400 RPM. It almost took off right into the next car ahead. After that its back to the same surging idle and pulsing revs it was doing before. I was actually shocked that it was running good this morning, I even shut it down a half dozen times through the day and each time it was fine when it restarted. It gave no warning when it started acting up again. It was the first time its idled normal since I re-awoke the thing from all the years in storage.
Again, no codes stored.
I did notice that while driving it today it wasn't as powerful as it is when its idle is out of control, when the idle is acting up, it runs 10 times stronger than it should. When its acting up, the thing is actually hard to drive without breaking the tires free, its as if its suddenly on steroids all the time. But today, all day, it drove normal for about 400 miles before all at once returning to the state its been in for the past few weeks.
I keep thinking about what may have triggered it but I was just sitting there at a light with my foot on the brake. It was idling around 750 or so and I didn't need to have both feet on the brake pedal, just like it was years ago when I put it in storage.
Have you tried unplugging the ICP and test driving it? Surging idle most times caused by faulty ICP... at least it's what causes mine to do it. Won't hurt the truck, will cause it to set a check engine light, clear it when done. Could drive it that way forever, but will confirm a bad sensor. Also check the connector when you unplug it. look for oil in the plug or oil in the sensor as well.
Have you tried unplugging the ICP and test driving it? Surging idle most times caused by faulty ICP... at least it's what causes mine to do it. Won't hurt the truck, will cause it to set a check engine light, clear it when done. Could drive it that way forever, but will confirm a bad sensor. Also check the connector when you unplug it. look for oil in the plug or oil in the sensor as well.
I did, it set a code and put the MIL on but the symptoms didn't change.
Keep in mind this isn't just a high idle or surge, its a very high idle and occasional three surges up to 1900 to 2400 RPM. Lately its been surging higher.
This morning it ran fine again for a bit, then by the time I hit the first stop light the idle suddenly jumped up to 2400 RPM and it started the surge, drop, surge, drop, surge, drop pattern every so often.
Again, no codes stored. Wed. it goes to the dealer again.
Have you pulled the IPR... that's where I'd look first. The screen may be blocked or torn and keeping the valve from working correctly. Shouldn't take long to verify and could cause what's happening.
The HPOP makes 4000 psi constantly, give or take...its pressure is directed to injectors or back to the sump as needed... if its stuck and forced to direct flow to injectors, RPMs scream... the ICP is commanding the IPR to direct flow to the sump and the blockage is physically limiting movement... could very well be the issue.
The plug don't have a white clip, its either been replaced or its an early version without it. The plug fits tight into the ICP.
I get three throttle position readings on the scanner, and no codes. One reading goes high to low, the other low to high, both look ok. I had mentioned this to the dealer the first go round and was told that all three parts of the sensor would have to fail at the same time for it to be an issue.
It was supposed to go back to another dealer today but they called and postponed my appointment till next Tues. since they didn't have all the parts for one of the recall notices I got.
After replacing the ICP sensor and pigtail, then replacing the IPR solenoid, two oil changes, one with a stiction additive, buying two scan tools and an android notepad to read a bluetooth dongle I had gotten nowhere. It had been to the dealer 5 times, (three different dealers), none figured it out.
About a week ago I was under the hood with the intention that I'd simply start taking it apart till I found something. I removed the degas bottle, unbolted the FICM and noticed the middle plug wasn't attached when I lifted the module off the bracket. It wouldn't click into place. I removed the module, took a closer look inside the middle socket and found a chunk of silicone sealer stuck up inside the middle plug hole. I picked that out, reconnected the FICM, put the rest all back together and took it for a test ride and all was fine. Its been fine now for 150 or so miles.
It never once set a code, no faults at all. I'm not sure which circuits were affected but that middle plug had to be making intermittent contact.
After replacing the ICP sensor and pigtail, then replacing the IPR solenoid, two oil changes, one with a stiction additive, buying two scan tools and an android notepad to read a bluetooth dongle I had gotten nowhere. It had been to the dealer 5 times, (three different dealers), none figured it out.
About a week ago I was under the hood with the intention that I'd simply start taking it apart till I found something. I removed the degas bottle, unbolted the FICM and noticed the middle plug wasn't attached when I lifted the module off the bracket. It wouldn't click into place. I removed the module, took a closer look inside the middle socket and found a chunk of silicone sealer stuck up inside the middle plug hole. I picked that out, reconnected the FICM, put the rest all back together and took it for a test ride and all was fine. Its been fine now for 150 or so miles.
It never once set a code, no faults at all. I'm not sure which circuits were affected but that middle plug had to be making intermittent contact.
Wow....just wow. No dealer ever bothered to look at the FICM?!
Worse yet, it took $2200 worth of other tries before I found the loose plug.
Oil and filter change, twice, $438
Oil Additive $55
New ICP and harness, $288
New IPR solenoid, $412
Trans service $185
Fuel Filter $65
Fuel system service $188
Cooling system service, flush and refill. $165
Air filter $100
Diag charges for hooking up the scan tool each time was 1hr ($118) of labor, $236
"Inspect wiring harness and test drive", another hour, $118.
I realize a lot of what was done was just due maintenance from sitting but the ICP and IPR were probably fine and the second oil change wasn't likely needed. I'm also not sure about the trans service at only 13,000 miles but I think they were chasing the irratic downshift caused by the high idle.
After finding the FICM plug issue, it runs and shifts perfect again.
The part that I don't get is why or how the plug came undone while it sat for all those years. Its not like a rodent got in there and unclipped the plug. It likely was like that from day one and either age or changes in the wire loom due to age and time let the plug back off enough to make and break contact. Before it was parked, it never so much as gave a hint of any issues. When I called the last dealer to let them know nothing they did helped the problem I was told that maybe it had internal issues and that I should be prepared for a major engine repair. He then went on about how the last 6.0 repair they did was over $8K. I think he was trying to scare me off so as not to have to deal with the problem again.
The second dealer it went too flat out told me after they couldn't fix it that they didn't really have a diesel tech, they were just going on what Ford told them to do. One local diesel shop said that the Ford ICP sensors are junk and that I needed to spend some money on 'aftermarket parts' if I wanted the truck to run right. They basically were trying to head me toward a $5000 bullet proofing job and a bunch of add on parts.
Now that its running right, I may add a coolant filter, I figure it can't hurt.
The degas bottle was brown looking, but there was no rusty deposits, just discolored plastic. It wasn't that way when it was parked. The coolant itself is clear yellow and looks clean, it looks no different after they did a full service. I drained and cleaned out the degas bottle properly myself after they did the service. The funny part is that its only in the bottle, the inside of the radiator hoses are clean. The bottle had sort of a brown haze on it. I soaked it for a few hours with some wire wheel acid and water, it came up like new.
The part I don't get about the add on coolant filter is that it only scavenges off the heater core flow, I would think it wouldn't do very much that way and maybe even siphon off a percentage of coolant that was headed for the heater core?
There is a kit that does not do it as a bypass. The one nice thing is you
know when you no longer have heat that it's time to do a filter service.
One thing that could cause things to change is age shrinkage and minor temp
changes over time. The degas bottle may just be an age thing. With coolant
vapors in contact with the plastic or just vapors coming from the engine any
thing can be to blame. BTW when I say vapors even cole oils will give off some
vapors. They may be very small in amount but given time it all adds up.
Question for you. What color was that blob of silicone you found?
Anyway it good you found what the problem was and think you for reporting back on it.
Now go enjoy the truck you have earned it.
The silicone in the plug socket was orange, the same color as the rubber around the pins. It may well have been some flashing from that rubber around the pins. It was off to one side of the pins, not among them. Just thick enough to not let the plug snap in place.
Who makes the non-bypass filter?
10-02-2016, 11:07 PM
