No fuel injector pulse
#16
*Update* I pulled and cleaned the injectors. all of them spray if I directly ground it. I also put new orings on them. I have great fuel pressure, will start then die off ether. If I plug in the temp. sender then the injector pulse goes away when I unplug it the pulse comes back.
My thoughts are that the computer may be bad. The computer may be reading the engine as flooded. I do not have any codes. Any ideas?
My thoughts are that the computer may be bad. The computer may be reading the engine as flooded. I do not have any codes. Any ideas?
#18
OK, so I had a spare map sensor so I swapped it in. Now it will kick like it wants to start every few seconds. I have strong fuel injector pulse and extremely good spark. The sender also now has no effect on pulse. I set timing where the rotor is pointing to no one spark plug at 10 degrees BTDC with the spout connector out. Now when I turn it over with the spout in the timing shows up 10 degrees ATDC. Any ideas guys? Also it will not start off starting fluid now
#20
The dampers fine. The truck will sometimes act like its about to start, usually after I connect my fuel pressure gauge. Its acting like its out of time or has a massive vacuum leak. Ive checked both of those out and they seem fine. Does anyone know of step by step how to time this? Do I set it where the rotor points to 1st cylinder wire when the crankshaft is set at TDC or 10degrees BTDC ?
#21
#22
#24
You have to find true TDC by other means, then verify the crank damper is at the 0* mark.
One way to do it is to put a screwdriver or something into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole, and slowly turn the engine until the screwdriver is at its furthest point out. However that's not super accurate since there is a couple of degrees of "dwell" near TDC where you can move the crank with no appreciable change in piston position.
One way to do it is to put a screwdriver or something into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole, and slowly turn the engine until the screwdriver is at its furthest point out. However that's not super accurate since there is a couple of degrees of "dwell" near TDC where you can move the crank with no appreciable change in piston position.
#25
It sounds like you are not using a timing light.
Just eye balling the 10*BTDC with the engine not running will not set the timing right.
You need to get it started with the spout out and then adjust it to 10*BTDC with a timing light with it running. With the hold down bolt torqued down make sure it is still at 10*BTDC with the timing light and it running.
Then put the spout back in and make sure the timing marks have moved with the engine running.
Just eye balling the 10*BTDC with the engine not running will not set the timing right.
You need to get it started with the spout out and then adjust it to 10*BTDC with a timing light with it running. With the hold down bolt torqued down make sure it is still at 10*BTDC with the timing light and it running.
Then put the spout back in and make sure the timing marks have moved with the engine running.
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