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So I have been having terrible blue smoke upon start up and it continues until the truck is warmed up. So today for sh**s and giggles I decided to take a look at the egr valve.
When I went to take it out the top half came out only (where the sensor plugs in). So I had to use my crows foot to get the actually valve apart. I have never had this happen.
I cleaned it up and put it back together. Then my engine light came on and code p0404 showed up. Went to pull out the egr valve and again it came and part in two pieces.
Can I salvage the valve?
If I need to replace it, can I drive around with the valve not working properly, until and the replacement part comes in?
Also, I need help with this blue smoke thing, I am going to use an oil additive in my next oil change (1500 more miles). Should I wait until I see if the oil additive helps and then go from there?
I believe the codes are present because the valve is not acting properly or sending its movement information correctly. From another source:
P0404: Exhaust gas recirculation circuit range/performance -This code tells us that the PCM detected the EGR valve is not responding to the commanded position within a given amount of time. This is typically an indication that the valve is sticking or is stuck.
P1335: EGR position sensor minimum/maximum stop performance - This code means that the EGR valve position voltage is greater than the allowable limit when closed and is not being commanded by the PCM. I have two different specifications for this: 1.3V>2.5 seconds and 1.5V>2.5 seconds but the indication is still the same. The possibilities include a stuck EGR valve, debris preventing the valve from fully closing, wiring concerns affecting the signal voltage or control circuits and the PCM.
I've never pulled one of those apart so I can say if all the parts stay intact after such a separation. Me, I would keep it shut down until a new valve arrives to be safe.
When I had a bad, not closing faulty valve I had blue smoke that went away with a new valve. I also run (on and off) with a secondary valve placed on top of the installed valve, so the installed valve is always closed. No problems with that.
When I had a bad, not closing faulty valve I had blue smoke that went away with a new valve. I also run (on and off) with a secondary valve placed on top of the installed valve, so the installed valve is always closed. No problems with that.
Yea that blows. I'm glad my EGR days are behind me.
I will say that on old truck with a EGR running diesel Kleen made a H U G E difference in how clean that thing stayed. Intake little by little became extremely clean too. So it for sure helps.
Well after much research lastnight I have decided I will just drive around with the egr sensor disconnected. I know the fan rpms won't be the same, but I should not have any issues since I am not towing and the days are getting colder once the new valve gets in then I will leave the old one in and connect the new one to the sensor and zip tie it off to the side
Right. I'm only asking because you've done a lot more research on this pertinent topic than I, and I'm also not really interested in more HP from this engine but the tuner can have other benefits also, whereas your dual valve fix is specific to that troublesome part.
Right. I'm only asking because you've done a lot more research on this pertinent topic than I, and I'm also not really interested in more HP from this engine but the tuner can have other benefits also, whereas your dual valve fix is specific to that troublesome part.
How much does new valve cost anyway?
I agree on not being interested in more horsepower either, even thought I have a very mild tune on the FICM.
09-24-2016, 01:58 PM
