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Starter option opinions?

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Old 08-27-2016, 03:36 PM
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Starter option opinions?

300 Block F150.

The starter I believe to be bad. I have the same Volts on my multimeter from battery to the little bolt the starter.

It clicks and occasionally grinds a wee bit. Sounds like the gear is not engaging. I can rotate cylinders from the Main pulley (forget name) upfront. Nothing is seized. I smacked the alternator a few times but nothing.


How hard is this to replace. I can only see 1 bolt... Recommendations on doing this?

Is there a Mini Starter for this motor? I read somewhere that the small v8's use the same starter. Info on this please.

If not a mini what brands are going to be a good long term replacement?

Finally would a $45 valucraft be worth it just to see if thats the problem?

Appreciated.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:41 PM
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Before you go replacing parts check to make sure, that your battery is good, and has a full charge. A good, fully charged battery will show around 12.5 volts. Also make sure you have good solid, tight grounds, with a clean connection. Same for the battery, no corroded cable ends.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:08 PM
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I have pulled what wired I can. Ground from batt to block to brand new. As well as batt cable to solenoid. Batt shows 12.5 at the starter when cranking. Well more like 12 flat after load is put on it. Far as I can tell I'm losing no power from batt to starter.

Does this all qualify?
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:28 PM
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There are two (2) different starters for your vehicle - one for a manual trans and another for an automatic, which has a longer nose. Verify you're getting the right starter for your application. Should be two bolts holding it on. Ford starters require no shims, either.

The starter grinds when engaged?

The solenoid clicks often? Sure sign it's going south...give it a few whaps and see what happens.

If the parts idjits tell you there's only one starter for the 300 I6, tell the to bring out both starters and compare. Or go somewhere else.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Yager
I have pulled what wired I can. Ground from batt to block to brand new. As well as batt cable to solenoid. Batt shows 12.5 at the starter when cranking. Well more like 12 flat after load is put on it. Far as I can tell I'm losing no power from batt to starter.

Does this all qualify?
Do you have battery charger that you can put on there for a little, or even another battery that you know is good
Or if you can go ahead and take your starter out, most auto parts places will check them free.
Make sure you have you cables removed at the battery before you remove that starter.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:35 PM
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The battery is fresh off the charger. And had it checked under warranty. Still has a CCA of 710. If I put a jump from my durango on its the same result. The solenoid isn't clicking it's the starter I hear pausr.... click click click.


How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:36 PM
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Yes I know to get a starter for the manual. Just gauging he this job.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Yager
The battery is fresh off the charger. And had it checked under warranty. Still has a CCA of 710. If I put a jump from my durango on its the same result. The solenoid isn't clicking it's the starter I hear pausr.... click click click.
How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
It sounds like you've been checking everything out pretty well.
That starter should only have 2 bolts that bolt it up. Plus whatever for the wiring. I'm not sure about a "Short Starter"
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:45 PM
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The wiring is 1 wire. Solenoid is up on fender. Alright I will attempt to pull the starter today
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:49 PM
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Have you tried crossing the starter solenoid?




Good luck, though you really shouldn't have any problems.
Let us know when you get it running
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 05:54 PM
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In terms of what starter to buy, suggest you stay away from the Valucraft. You will likely have to do the job again in a few months with that one.

A "premium reman" is good and usually has a lifetime warranty. Still, the reman may be made on a 30-40 year old core. Its a mixed bag how long they last.

Better yet, most AP stores have a "100% new" option at reasonable cost. It may in fact be a "mini" or maybe not. I wouldn't see any benefit in paying more for a mini.
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 06:18 PM
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Agree with what the others have said.....

One thing I fergot to mention and it could be your problem if jumping the solenoid works - make sure the solenoid is grounded to good, clean metal.
 
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:45 PM
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Why did you "smack the alternator"? Was it naughty?

Smack the starter instead...it's usually the trouble-maker...
 
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonnyuma
Why did you "smack the alternator"? Was it naughty?
They do have a tendency to squeal a bit....I'd whack it, too

Smack the starter instead...it's usually the trouble-maker...
Any thing electrical should get the BFH first, to let 'em know who's boss, and then figure out the cause of the illness. Then, smack 'em down again!
 
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Filthy Beast
They do have a tendency to squeal a bit....I'd whack it, too

Any thing electrical should get the BFH first, to let 'em know who's boss, and then figure out the cause of the illness. Then, smack 'em down again!
I had a brand new starter solenoid from O'Reilly that was sticking on start. Caught me without tools. Had to pop the hood real fast and whack the solenoid with the back of my fist several times. I think it liked it, cuz it did it several more times that day. When I got home I replaced it. Again
 


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