Starter option opinions?
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Senior User
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Starter option opinions?
300 Block F150.
The starter I believe to be bad. I have the same Volts on my multimeter from battery to the little bolt the starter.
It clicks and occasionally grinds a wee bit. Sounds like the gear is not engaging. I can rotate cylinders from the Main pulley (forget name) upfront. Nothing is seized. I smacked the alternator a few times but nothing.
How hard is this to replace. I can only see 1 bolt... Recommendations on doing this?
Is there a Mini Starter for this motor? I read somewhere that the small v8's use the same starter. Info on this please.
If not a mini what brands are going to be a good long term replacement?
Finally would a $45 valucraft be worth it just to see if thats the problem?
Appreciated.
The starter I believe to be bad. I have the same Volts on my multimeter from battery to the little bolt the starter.
It clicks and occasionally grinds a wee bit. Sounds like the gear is not engaging. I can rotate cylinders from the Main pulley (forget name) upfront. Nothing is seized. I smacked the alternator a few times but nothing.
How hard is this to replace. I can only see 1 bolt... Recommendations on doing this?
Is there a Mini Starter for this motor? I read somewhere that the small v8's use the same starter. Info on this please.
If not a mini what brands are going to be a good long term replacement?
Finally would a $45 valucraft be worth it just to see if thats the problem?
Appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,111
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From: Lexington Mo
Before you go replacing parts check to make sure, that your battery is good, and has a full charge. A good, fully charged battery will show around 12.5 volts. Also make sure you have good solid, tight grounds, with a clean connection. Same for the battery, no corroded cable ends.
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I have pulled what wired I can. Ground from batt to block to brand new. As well as batt cable to solenoid. Batt shows 12.5 at the starter when cranking. Well more like 12 flat after load is put on it. Far as I can tell I'm losing no power from batt to starter.
Does this all qualify?
Does this all qualify?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
There are two (2) different starters for your vehicle - one for a manual trans and another for an automatic, which has a longer nose. Verify you're getting the right starter for your application. Should be two bolts holding it on. Ford starters require no shims, either.
The starter grinds when engaged?
The solenoid clicks often? Sure sign it's going south...give it a few whaps and see what happens.
If the parts idjits tell you there's only one starter for the 300 I6, tell the to bring out both starters and compare. Or go somewhere else.
The starter grinds when engaged?
The solenoid clicks often? Sure sign it's going south...give it a few whaps and see what happens.
If the parts idjits tell you there's only one starter for the 300 I6, tell the to bring out both starters and compare. Or go somewhere else.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,111
Likes: 3
From: Lexington Mo
I have pulled what wired I can. Ground from batt to block to brand new. As well as batt cable to solenoid. Batt shows 12.5 at the starter when cranking. Well more like 12 flat after load is put on it. Far as I can tell I'm losing no power from batt to starter.
Does this all qualify?
Does this all qualify?
Or if you can go ahead and take your starter out, most auto parts places will check them free.
Make sure you have you cables removed at the battery before you remove that starter.
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The battery is fresh off the charger. And had it checked under warranty. Still has a CCA of 710. If I put a jump from my durango on its the same result. The solenoid isn't clicking it's the starter I hear pausr.... click click click.
How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,111
Likes: 3
From: Lexington Mo
The battery is fresh off the charger. And had it checked under warranty. Still has a CCA of 710. If I put a jump from my durango on its the same result. The solenoid isn't clicking it's the starter I hear pausr.... click click click.
How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
How hard is this starter to remove?
Will the short starter work?
That starter should only have 2 bolts that bolt it up. Plus whatever for the wiring. I'm not sure about a "Short Starter"
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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In terms of what starter to buy, suggest you stay away from the Valucraft. You will likely have to do the job again in a few months with that one.
A "premium reman" is good and usually has a lifetime warranty. Still, the reman may be made on a 30-40 year old core. Its a mixed bag how long they last.
Better yet, most AP stores have a "100% new" option at reasonable cost. It may in fact be a "mini" or maybe not. I wouldn't see any benefit in paying more for a mini.
A "premium reman" is good and usually has a lifetime warranty. Still, the reman may be made on a 30-40 year old core. Its a mixed bag how long they last.
Better yet, most AP stores have a "100% new" option at reasonable cost. It may in fact be a "mini" or maybe not. I wouldn't see any benefit in paying more for a mini.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
They do have a tendency to squeal a bit....I'd whack it, too
Any thing electrical should get the BFH first, to let 'em know who's boss, and then figure out the cause of the illness. Then, smack 'em down again!
Smack the starter instead...it's usually the trouble-maker...
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
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From: Great American SouthWest
I had a brand new starter solenoid from O'Reilly that was sticking on start. Caught me without tools. Had to pop the hood real fast and whack the solenoid with the back of my fist several times. I think it liked it, cuz it did it several more times that day. When I got home I replaced it. Again