Alright so lets start out with this,

truck sat since February, finally got it ready to drive the end of July. I knew I had a #1 cylinder contribution code, truck would shake and idle rough when hot, ran some HSS and it been fine for 300 miles got a nice hand calculated 20mpg no bs.

This last week I got the shaky rough idle back twice. I decided to just shut it off in traffic, crank it back up and wow rough idle was gone... gotta be something electrical right? cool hunt that issue down later.

Now, unrelated and only happened during the use of my remote start, I would attempt to remote start the truck and got the crank with no start, to my knowledge, this only happened when the truck had ran a couple hours prior to remote starting again.

no more weird idling issues.

This past friday comes by, taking the girlfriend out to a movie, stop as walmart for candy for the cheapa** that i am, go back out and crank crank crank no start... wtf...

checked codes, nothing unusual, used the scangauge and symptoms showed that of a bad IPR, 260psi MAX on the ICP and 84.7 on the IPR...Unplugged ICP for ****s and giggles, no start but read arounf 875psi on the ICP and 32 on the IPR...

Ok, engine is hot maybe HPO leak when its hot.... wait 4 hours for a tow, crank crank crank, no start.

Get home late that night with the tow truck.

didnt look at the truck saturday BUT I did crank it once with the ICP PLUGGED IN AND ONCE WITH IT UNPLUGGED, no change BUT engine was cold at this time so checked it out sunday when I got home, had the battery charger on all day sunday. Cranked with ICP sensor connected, no change in readings. Decided to do the bubble test because I thought maybe that injector totally crapped out, nope no bubbles in the fuel bowl when cranking.

unplug ICP and the dang thing starts and runs fine!!!


Shut it off, reconnected the icp and once again it starts and runs fine!!

So now i thought, must be a HPO leak when hot right?
nope.

beat on the truck hard for almost a good 45 mins, Stopping back at home every 15 minutes to shut the truck off and restart it again. Totally fine once again!

I am way too stumped on this guys, even after letting the truck sit after it got hot, it would still start right back up.

where to start? what tests to run? I am at a loss and dont want to fork over another $100 when my stupid insurance company sends a tow truck thats too small forcing me to call a local company and wait another 2 hours...


Truck has almost 200k on it, fully bulletproofed(work done2 months after i bought the truck), sct tuner and 58v ficm.


any help is appreciated.

 

It might be worth seeing what your ICP voltage is key on engine off when it's acting up with the crank no start. It should be 0.24. If not, your ICP sensor is shot.

 

Can I check th voltage now even though it will start or will that be a lost cause? I just don't get why this would be happening it's starts fine all of a sudden now wether it's hot or cold or plugged in or not plugged in icp

 

Yes check it

Turn key on to where the dash lights glow plug light everything comes on but do not start the truck take the reading

 

Obviously keep the sensor connected just probe the wires correct

 

You can read it from your ScanGauge.

ICV
TXD
07E02216AD

RXF
0462451606AD

RXD
3010

MTH
004827100000

 

Truck is reading 0.23 for icv

 

ICP is good

 

To add to this about three weeks ago I did an oil cooler change and I remember diesel tech Ron(rip such a good guy) said that debris can fall into where the oil cooler sits and plug the ipr screen. Could my screen have been plugged but then the debris blocking the screen fell of causing it to start again?

 

Sounds to me like it's time for an air test. This is going to eliminate the STC or other stuff.
I did an STC last week that would sometimes pop right off hot start, other times cranks forever before it built 500 to light things up.
You might have crud on the screen yes, but from what I have read once it's lodged it won't magically fall off.

 

Do you think the injector with the contribution code could have anything to do with this issue? As I said above I feel like it must be electrical especially from the stand point of idling rough then shutting it off and starting it again it was fine. I do plan to do an air test but something in my years of my electrical apprenticeship something is telling me it's electrical but I could be wrong.

 

Cold start on a 85* day. Anything out of the normal range?

 

The value we need is on a warm truck
EOT 185*

Then grab those numbers at idle and again at 2500rpm

I would agree IPR needs pulled and inspected if you just did an oil cooler

 

I went to go drive it around the block and lost all readings on icp ipr and icv


Edit took the truck back home when readings went dead shut it off and started it again here are the readings at a hot idle


Hot at at 2500rpm



Wot at 3000+ rpm

 

Ipr screen.


A little dirty but nothing major at all