Hey guys I think I need a little advice doing u joints for the first time. I have a c clamp, hammer and correct size sockets to take out the bearing cups. I don't have a press or vise so doing this all by hand. So once I begin I mark the driveshaft in relationship to the differential flange, unbolt the 4 bolts and pull down then pull the driveshaft so the transmission side of the driveshaft slides out. With that done I remove the snap rings and use the c clamp with a sockets to force the cup bearings out and use vise grips to twist and pull if it doesn't push them out all the way. Install is just putting the u joint back into place and by hand putting the bearing cup (grease applied before doing this) back onto the u joint and once all 4 are on I use a socket again and hammer them all the way on until the snap rings can be put on. Then repeat for the other end of the driveshaft correct?

 

You missed the first most important part of doing a U-Joint job ... Throwing that hammer as far as you can into the lake before doing U-Joints!

If your C Clamp isn't big enough to do the whole job, get a bigger one!

Otherwise you're pretty close.

Don't forget to mark the front yoke to driveline ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I don't see a C clamp doing the job. I strained a ball joint press (think super HD C clamp) doing u joints on a particularly stubborn truck. They can be very stubborn at times, especially if they haven't been done in some time. I usually use a hammer.. no problems here, just have to know where to hit.

 

I used a hammer as well when I did mine. Just make sure when you take the caps off be very careful not to lose any of those needle bearings. I watched a few videos on YouTube to try and prepare myself. I would suggest you do the same, it helps being able to see it being done.

 

Be prepared for the worst. I have replaced u-joints many times but when I tried to replace the u-joints in either the front driveshaft or axle (I don't remember which One it was) I could not get them to move. I usually use a vise and sockets for this job. I ended up taking it to a shop and he said it took the 20T press to get them out. He'd never seen anything like it. I'm guessing they were the original joints that had been in there for the last 20+ years.

 

Y'all can use your hammers, I do not tell people to do so, I have seen a lot of u-joints, yokes and drive lines destroyed by hammers ...

If you can't get them with a C clamp or vise, get a bigger one, if you still can't, get a press or have some one do it for you ...

Don't get me wrong, I have also seen (and done) a lot that went just fine with hammers!
I have learned over the years it's not worth the risk.

Most shops that have a press will do U-joints fairly cheap on carry in's.
My sons shop charges $10 a u-joint on carry in's, No cleanup, No balance, No paint, just u-joint replacement!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

$10 a pop is a good deal if they're stuck. I've used a big shop press (50 ton, it didn't even feel the joints), rental ball joint press (crank down, press nearly bending, smack with hammer, retighten, hit again, repeat until out), vise (only worked with non-stuck joints), and hammers. End product has always been the same. But! The press is my favorite. There is risk with hammers, I'll admit that.

 

A torch to heat it up with... even a plumbers torch with map gas will do it.

 

You can probably use a hammer to get it out without destroying the yoke if it's spent it's whole life in the southwest desert. Then again you could probably have farted on it to the same effect. Shoot it with penetrating oil. Wait awhile. Use a ball joint press. Put a ton of tension on it and if it still doesn't go give the yoke a tap with the hammer.

You can probably use a hammer to slide the new joints in. Using a C clamp for removal is just plain dumb. If it's go enough force to get the old joint out then you may as well use a rubber mallet.

If you don't own a ball joint press suck it up and buy a $50 China special on eBay. You'll use it for tons of things.

 

 

That company must be in the Southwest. Where is all the rust on the driveshaft??

 

x2. Watching videos of people doing stuff on newish components or stuff from the southwest isn't all that useful. My favorite is when they use something other than an angle grinder to unbolt exhaust fasteners under the vehicle.


I've debated mixing up my metric and fractional sockets and just organizing them by size from smallest to largest since having a tight fit is way more important than the size the fastener is supposed to be.

 

I remove universal joints with a vise and hammer. Rest the ears of the yoke on the vice, one or two good swings with the BFH and the caps go flying across the shop. Then I use a hammer and socket to pound the new joint in. I've got a press, but I've blown enough of the faces off the end of the caps with it to not bother anymore.

 

I prefer the press but if you have a big enough vise that you can go all out with a BFH then I see no reason you couldn't do that.

My friend and I used heat, penetrating oil and a 4lb sledge and couldn't move a pair of old Chevy U joints with a couple hours of beating. We came back later after the oil had done its thing and still nothing. We contemplated trying to shoot them out so we could work on the caps one at a time. Decided against it and tossed them in the bed of my truck. Ball-joint press wound up doing it no problem. Between the six joints I did at that time I had maybe two explode. Exploding caps are no big deal to me. I like the press but will use the hammer for the ones that don't require much fighting.

 

That is a great idea!