Yes, exactly, that wire is what energizes the solenoid/relay when you turn the key to start, it should have 12v+ with key in start position.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

@Festus Hagen
I used a test light grounded to a bolt in the chassis and got zero illumination off of that center top post when my son tried to start the truck. But I did this in the brightest part of the day, so I'm going to test again this evening.

Assuming I get no illumination on the tool it seems that wire is bad. That would make the most sense - it is a bit bent up and I had worked with the ignition actuator very recently, and I know the starter motor works when I span the solenoid. So it must be this wire.

 

... Or more likely the neutral safety switch/clutch safety interlock.

 

Confirmed the center top post of the starter solenoid does NOT light up. I made sure I didn't have a bad tester by using the 12+ on the battery and it was nice & bright, but not so with the center top post.

 

When you turn the Key to Start do you feel spring loaded resistance and does it return to the Run position by itself?

If it has no power when you turn the key to start, then the next item to check would be one of the following depending on Automatic or Manual ...
You need to check if you are getting power to which ever one you have while the key is in the start position.

The next item I believe would be the ignition switch ... Someone other than I would better serve you from here.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

You are testing the little red/blue wire attached to that small post, or the post itself?

Temporarily bypass the neutral safety switch and see if the key switch will engage the fender mounted starter relay then.

 

@ArdWrknTrk
I tested the post itself. Should I test the wire?

@Festus
I didn't pick up on it earlier, but no the ignition is NOT getting spring loaded tension on it. It doesn't snap back automatically even if it doesn't start.

The key will not rotate backwards/counterclockwise into Accessory mode. The farthest back it will go is the Lock position.

I am thinking this means I have not properly timed the ignition cylinder mechanism, and hence it isn't getting as far forward as it needs to get. Would that be the behavior if the mechanism wasn't properly set?

 

After re-reading I guess I wasn't clear about that, Sorry. ... Test the wire!
You can test the post as long as the wire is attached ... The point is to test the wire!

However, I suspect you just found your issue ... The switch!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

You need to test the start wire, not the post of the starter solenoid. With test light grounded and probe in the connector it should light up brightly, like if you put the test light on the battery positive post.


That is one possablity, but its the ignition switch that has to be adjusted up/down the steering column not the cylinder.

BEFORE messing around with the ignition switch, check the neutral safety switch and(if manual tranny) clutch interlock switch like the others have said.

After verifying the above, then I'll let you know how to adjust the ignition switch.

 

I opened up the steering column as I knew I had to straighten the steering wheel anyway. I figured I wasn't getting the actuator gear teeth seated right.

I had to fight with the ignition cylinder column to get it off, but finally got it. I had over-tightened the nut previously - that's why the steering wheel was off center as I had kept the marks aligned.

So, now I can align the teeth right. My question is how do I do that and ensure it's properly done? I have looked for videos explaining it but nothing I found details that step.

Once I get that together and I am confident that isn't an issue, I will test the wire if necessary.

I am pretty sure the gear teeth not being properly set is the issue. After I got the key & cylinder & actuator gear portion initially installed, the truck started a couple times. Then something changed. My guess is that the teeth weren't set right and I got nothing after it slipped.

See https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...inder-fix.html

 

Oh, and by the way back to the original topic - I bought a new battery and recycled the old one. I got enough projects going - I don't need to try to save a battery too.

 

Yeah, those photos didn't do as well on the camera as I could see with the fading light. Here's a better one.


power for heater blower motor

I believe it's the brownish looking connector in the middle bottom area of the photo.

 

teeth are miss timed on switch in colum, you say you dont feel the spring loaded start position and wont rotate back to acc. what is happening is when you have it in the off position it is actually in acc. and when you try to start it you are never actually reaching the start position. Been there done that.You can confirm by removing the switch itself from the colum with wiring still attached and move the sliding switch with a small screwdriver. bet it starts right up.

 

@barnym17
That's what I was thinking.

Low and behold not only was the timing off, the gear itself is an issue. Pulled this out of the column cylinder collar today.


broken gear

I'd say it's more than a little bent up.

 

The new gear arrived yesterday. But I think they look a LITTLE different from each other.


ignition lock gear

The top one is the existing/older one. I can't tell if that was factory or not.

What I can clearly see is they are substantially different. Old one squared off at the bottom vs rounded on the new, as well as the bottom post section being flush on the old but jutting out on one side on the new. And of course that bottom post is much beefier on the new one too.

The part numbers are identical, however. Which one is the correct part for my 1989 F-350? It is possible the old part was wrong. The one I ordered was supposedly new old stock or perhaps just mis-marked since that was clearly felt marker on the plastic bag.