Hello,

I've decided its time to replace my carburetor. I don't have much experience with carbs, so I'm having a hard time figuring out what I need to replace it with. I currently have a 1 barrel ("Motor Craft", "DOPF 9510 E", "4525 1MC" marked on the side) for my 300 inline 6.

I can't find anyone local to buy one from, so it looks like I'll be ordering online - which means I'd like to order the right one.

Can anyone recommend a good carburetor for the 300? I'm not trying to maximize power and good fuel economy is nice.

Thanks for the help

J

 

I rebuilt my 1 bbl carb for my 300 inline 6 recently, and it was pretty straight forward. Runs better now. Cost about $30 for parts.

 

If possible you would probably want to rebuild the one you have now unless it isn't serviceable. What's your thinking on replacing?

 

I've read that carbs typically have a tag that identifies them, but this one doesn't seem to have one. If I could identify it, rebuilding it would be an option. I've only owned the truck 6 years or so, so who knows if the carb is original.

 

You probably have a replacement updated carb already. You should be able to get a kit for it. Maybe Bill ND can shed some light on it. And as asked by Tedster what seems the problem. If you have the stock ignition, the carb has to be matched to it.

 

Introduced in 1970, this is a Ford "service part replacement" for the original 1100 series Auto-Lite 1V carburetor.

Since it's marked Motorcraft, it was installed after 1972. The carb ID tag number for this carb: D0PF-E

D0PZ-9A586-C (replaced D0PZ-9A586-A & B) .. Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-223-B) / Obsolete

MAINER FORD in Okarche OK has 1 = 405-263-7242.

BAYSHORE FORD TRUCK in New Castle DE has 1 = 302-656-6905.

MCDONALD OBSOLETE PARTS CO. in Rockport IN has 1 = 812-359-4965.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 96 = 800-476-9653.

 

Hey Bill, thanks for the help. The Carb ID is DOPF-E and the Carburetor kit isD0PZ-9A586-C?As for the problem, it feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel and its intermittent. The truck will drive fine and then it will start hesitating a little bit at cruise speeds ~ 50 mph in 4th gear. Later that day or a few drives later, it will have a hard time starting. Then it will start having problems in 4th gear at lower speeds (35 mph). At first it will just start hesitating. If you take your foot off the gas or put it in neutral, that will buy a minute or so more of no hesitation, but it quickly starts acting like its short on fuel again. Later in the day or a drive or two later, it starts really lacking fuel - bucking and dieing while its driving. Initially I thought it was crap in the fuel tank. I would change the fuel filters and it seemed to take care of the problem. So I installed a 100 micron reusable/washable fuel filter between the fuel pump and the tank, the problem didn't go away. Changing the canister fuel filter still seemed to help. A month ago, I replaced the fuel tank with the same results. Still had the same issue. The fuel pump was replaced about a year ago, so I can't imagine that is acting up. I had a pertronix electronic ignition installed on the truck a few years ago, so I don't think that's a problem. The last thing I can think of is the carburetor. Phew, that was a long post

James

 

Probably a defective accelerator pump, which comes in the carb kit.

 

Bizzyrne,
With the carburetor ID information you received from Bill (a.k.a., Number Dummy), I would suggest you try to locate a rebuild kit for it, two cans of spray carb cleaner and a gallon can of "carb soak" that you can can soak the carb body in. With the carb ID info, I'd go back & ask your favorite local parts house if they can get the kit and the supplies for you. Take your time taking it apart, being mindful of what goes where.... use some spray carb cleaner and install the new parts in the kit. Use some vasoline on the new gaskets and re-assemble then bolt it back on.


I might assume that the crappy ethanol-gasoline blended fuels have been used in your Slick and over time your carb has suffered from it. If the carb is badly pitted on the inside, then you may need to simply return the rebuild kit and cleaning stuff to the parts store and order up a new replacement carb.
Good Luck and keep us posted with your progress!
BarnieTrk

 

A pretty good 'carb soak' cleaner kit that I have used: Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner. It's about 20$.
BarnieTrk

 

I have the exact same replacement carb as you. I will give you my experience with this carb. The rebuild kit I used was from Napa/Echlin and the kit # was/ is 2-5743. Kit described as for a Holley Model 1940. If Holley was the vendor that made the DPOF-E I don't know, Bill N D can probably answer that. This kit has way more parts in it than you will use. LOL, he'll prob say I used the wrong kit, but thats what Napa gave for the App.

I set all by the inst sheet and it worked fine. BUT on a hot shut off and coming back to start it 10-15 min later it would crank and crank then finally start, run rough with some black smoke then clear up and run fine, go on my way with no driveability problems. So I blamed the Ethanol gas to percolating in the bowl and flooding over.

So I PURPOSELY lowered the float setting thinking if the fuel was expanding that it might not rise that high in the bowl. It helped quite a bit. So now another problem occurred as per YOUR truck. We have some local long hills/grades around here and putting the pedal to the floor the truck would pull good then start to lose power and sputter, back my foot out of it and the engine would recover and regain power then put it to it again and then back to sputtering again. Drive all around town / local, no problems. Hit he long grades local or on the interstate problem would occur again.

I reset the float to the sheet spec and no more problem. It was running out of gas in the bowl chamber. Upon inspecting both the new and old inlet needle and seat, the inlet orifice is quite small and I believe carb was consuming more fuel than could be supplied thru the orifice. It was not a fuel pump problem as I tested it for both pressure and vacuum plus I had put it on new when the I did the engine.

I do still have the hot restart problem, but live with it. I think 1, you should check your float level to be spot on. 2, vacuum and pressure test your fuel pump that it holds both. 3, put a tee in at the fuel pump inlet, hook the vauum gauge up to the tee and put the gauge in the cab and take it for a ride to make there is not a restriction from tank to pump.If there is that that gauge will start to rise.

And your long posts are nothing to what I write.

 

D0PF-E = D0PZ-9A586-C (replaced D0PZ-9A586-A & D0PZ-9A586-B) .. Carburetor Kit = Carburetor Parts List 34A (upper/lower pics)

The reason the kit has so many parts, the (10) D0PZ replacement carburetors were used on the following engines:

 

Thanks Bill N D. As you post these parts pages, I try to understand more and more.
A question I have, on the suffixes A thru J. The E, as James and I have, is it for the 240 engine only or possibly the 240, 262 and 300 engines, if possible to tell.
Thanks again, Cap

 

Pic: D0PF-E = 240 I-6.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll try to get some cleaner, soak and a kit lined up. One last question tho - if that list is correct Bill, it looks like my carburetor is for a 240 engine. I have a 300 I6 in my 66. Could it be that I am having problems (IICAP too) because my carb is too small for the engine?

James