1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'53 box build

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Old 06-28-2016, 08:09 PM
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'53 box build

I know that some of you have or are building your own bed. I would like to talk to or email you as I cannot find the builds. I am thinking about doing this myself but need to know what I am getting into. This is my first build ever. Also just learning to weld. If you can show me a link or send me a PM that would be great.
 
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:12 PM
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Look at the scratch built bed thread on page 2. It may help.
 
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:57 AM
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You might look at my build link. My build might lean toward the custom side more than you might want, but you get the general idea of how I approached building the bed.
 
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:14 PM
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The first considerations, besides your own skill level, is the local availability of metal and the facilities to shape the metal. Assuming that you will be building the bed out of 16 ga sheetmetal, you can take the measurements for the sides, header, and stake pockets and price out the metal. You can also find a shop that will shear and brake the metal for you. Since you are not an accomplished welder you may want to look into structural adhesives (3M 08115 for instance)...most modern day truck beds are assembled using adhesives. This is a fairly involved process and as a newbie it may be daunting. Don't bite off more than you can chew.
 
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Old 07-02-2016, 11:55 AM
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I see that you already had posted in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...built-bed.html

Couldn't you find it again or was there some other question?

I agree with CharlieLed, this isn't a project for a beginner unless you have some special tools and skills. On the other hand it would be easier because of the square sides and flat panels than chopping the top of your truck.

You should first come up with a build plan listing all the materials you will need and their cost. For comparison just remember that you can buy a complete box for #1,000 US plus shipping and duties (since you live in Canada).

I would also suggest that you do a search for welding tutorials by AXRacer here on FTE. Then practice, practice, practice until you like the look of your welds . . . then practice some more before you start cutting and welding.

Eastwood has some good products for welding. Weld-through primer should be at the top of your list.
 
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:52 PM
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I had some questions on how to finish the welding. Also trying to follow along. My computer sends me a message when I respond to a thread sometimes so hoping to get messages when that build is updated.
I have not priced the cost of steel yet, but thought it might be fun to try. Seems simple enough. time I have lots of, money I am trying to save.
Marten
 
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Old 07-02-2016, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Marten
I had some questions on how to finish the welding. Also trying to follow along. My computer sends me a message when I respond to a thread sometimes so hoping to get messages when that build is updated.
I have not priced the cost of steel yet, but thought it might be fun to try. Seems simple enough. time I have lots of, money I am trying to save.
Marten
Suggest that you get your supplier to help with that. Price will depend upon what lengths they stock and how many cuts they have to make. Sometimes they will cut you a deal (no pun intended ) on odd pieces that they have in stock.

Also what do you mean by "finish welding"? What type of welder are you using . . . Stick, Mig, Tig?
 
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Old 07-02-2016, 10:59 PM
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You can buy a stock bed from Mid West Early Ford from Ohio for only $600. This includes only the front panel, the two bed sides, and the rear cross member. If your other cross members are in good shape and you can buy or plane and router your own wood this is a great buy! You being in Canada???? Freight is a problem. Are you close enough to Ohio to drive across the border and get it?
 
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:18 AM
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Thanks guys for the help. Will check out Mid West Early Ford, never heard of them. The box I have has the two sides in reasonable shape but the rest is finished. The lower cover panels are all rusty, the front is bent big time from loads hitting it, missing two of the three cross pieces. I like the look of the stake pockets filled and closed on the bottom. The front piece I like the look of the ends being pointed. For the stake pockets on the outside would like to see if I could put them on without the 1" flange on top of the sides, if that makes sense to you. I have 3 tail gates but all of them need serious work as well. One might be salvageable but the others are done I think.


Pete for "finish welding" I seen a pic that shows a bunch of tacks holding two pieces together. Wondering what happens after that, do you do a continues weld in between them, continue tack welding in between them, something else? Then how do you make the welding smoother?
Oh I have a mig welder.
Abe, shipping and the dollar are killers for sure. I live about 1 hour north of the NY (Ogdensburg) border. We have an warehouse address there that I can ship to which helps when there is "free" shipping.
Thanks guys for all your help, this is all new to me but willing to learn as long as I can find people that are willing to teach/guide/encourage me. Not many people around here that are hot rodders willing to help.


Marten
 
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Old 07-03-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Marten
I have 3 tail gates but all of them need serious work as well. One might be salvageable but the others are done I think.
Save those old tailgates regardless of condition to make benches. With what you can sell one bench for you can buy a new tailgate.



Here is another one: Tailgate bench $799


Originally Posted by Marten
Pete for "finish welding" I seen a pic that shows a bunch of tacks holding two pieces together. Wondering what happens after that, do you do a continues weld in between them, continue tack welding in between them, something else? Then how do you make the welding smoother?
Oh I have a mig welder.
You have to be careful with sheet metal that you don't do too much welding or it distorts then you have a real mess. Too much grinding can distort it too. AXRacer gave me a great tip when he recommended that I use Easy Grind .023 wire. Here is one brand, there are more: SPOOLARC EASY GRIND | Welding Consumables | Products & Solutions | ESAB.

I clean and prime the panels first with Eastwood' weld-thru primer, both surfaces and both sides. This prevents rust from forming between welded surfaces.

Here are some posts that you should rear in detail:
Also I use flexible grinding discs of various grits to grind down my welds.


Good luck. Make sure that you practice on material similar to what you have on your project.
 
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