Well it is really a budget build. I'm just trying to figure out how to approach the project? I got so many questions right now to find answers to? Like should I stick with the Sealed Power Cast Aluminum Pistons with 4 Valve Reliefs, or go with a Hyperuetectic. If I do go with Cast Aluminum do I have to have my rotating assembly rebalanced? It saids the Cast Aluminum pistons "Meets and exceeds OEM performance and realiability" on Summit Racing. I want a 9:5.1 compression ratio. Will decking the heads 0.008-0.012 thousands and using these pistons along with running premium gasoline reach that ratio without risking the fact of detonation, or does my block need decking? I'll go ahead and somewhat port the exhaust ports and port-match the intake ports. The reason I'm asking is, because I am rebuilding the engine myself. Only a machine shop is doing my machine work. So I'm trying to figure out what all machine work needs to be done in order for me to build the engine.

 

Yeah, I just really need someone to guide me through the rebuild process as far as what machine work and type of pistons I should use. I'm kinda looking for a low- mid power and high torque motor.

 

You can buy pistons that increase your compression, or mill the heads. You can run much more than 9.5:1 if you plan on using 93 octane anyway. I'm around 10.5:1 with cast iron heads. Milling e7s for substantial increase in compression is going to take a lot of material, relatively speaking....something like .050+.

 

Does shaving, or decking the heads effect quench in any way? If it don't my plans are to have an almost zero decked block, leaving the Sealed Power Cast Aluminum Flat Top Pistons with 4 Valve Reliefs about 0.005 in the hole. Then using a Felpro Head Gasket with a thickness of 0.039 to 0.041 compressed. This should give me a decent quench area, but as long as if decking my heads 0.008 to 0.012 doesn't effect anything. Also will I still achieve decent piston to valve clearance?

 

Honestly the best way to know is to get the heads done and putty up a few pistons with that cam in the engine to see. its not rocket science to check this sort of stuff as you go. Allot of the questions you are asking may in fact be easily answered by a machine shop or a few good look around on the googlez.

 

Milling won't change quench height, only real factor there is head gasket and piston protrusion past the deck.

Milling can change quench though, but normally by milling and changing the overall area of the combustion chamber to a more "focused" point doesn't effect quench negatively.

 

Well I believe I have it figured out. I will have my heads decked to the minimum they need in order to have a flat surface, which shouldn't affect my piston to valve clearance much at all. The camshaft I have chosen should work with factory timing so I shouldn't have to worry about piston to valve clearance there either. I will decked the block 0.020. I used a filler gauge to measure how far my piston is in the hole now and it measured 0.025, which once decked will leave my pistons 0.005 in the hole. Then running a 0.040 thick head gasket will put my quench at 0.045, which is close to border line, but safe enough to avoid detonation and since it is so borderline shouldn't effect my piston to valve clearance either.

 

.045 is just fine for a low rpm steel rod application. The problem is, just have to be damn sure you have all of your measurements and specs are correct.

It is never a bad idea to physically check p2v clearance and quench, small amount of time compared to how long you expect your engine to run.

 

What cam have you chosen? If it isn't the Crane 444232 or Comp 35-255-5 it's probably not comptable with the EFI system.

 

When swapping from the roller lifter cam to the flat tappet do you need to change push rods as well? Longer? I'm planning on using the Comp 35-255-5. Thank you!

 

If you were going from flat tappet to roller or vise versa then yes different pushrods are necessary(shorter for roller cam), but you aren't since your motor has a flat tappet cam in it now and the Comp 35-255-5 is also a flat tappet cam.

 

I am not the OP I have a 95 F250 with a 5.8 so it should be roller

 

Yes.. that motor went to a roller cam in 1994, and if you are rebuilding it don't go backwords to a flat tappet cam use a roller cam instead. If the original cam is worn out or damaged then replace it with the same or one of the aftermarket roller cams grinds that are similar... Comp 35-512-8.