Originally Posted by SVTDriver97

I wouldn't be able to duplicate it by jacking it up because jacking it up on either side wouldn't get the momentum of the fuel sloshing around to make it die.

It has dual tanks, but the front tank is out while I wait for the last part to come in and then I can re-install the brand new plastic one. The rear one still works fine, and have never had a problem with it either not putting out enough fuel pressure, or not pumping to the carb. I have however noticed, that lately, I have to sit there and crank on it forever before it starts, so I usually have to throw some gas down the carb to kick it off, which also tells me it is probably a float problem.

It happens about 3/4 of the way through the turn. It couldn't be electrical because there aren't any other issues (other than the tach needle starting to jump now during normal operation) I could either be idling, or accelerating or maintaining speed and the needle bounces about 300-400 rpms.

Truck only has 49k original miles on it. I know mounts can break long before that, especially due to age, but there aren't any other signs that would indicate they're broken.

Throttle setting is at the stock setting. There's a sticker on the core support that mentions what the idle should be set at, and looking at the tach when it's in gear shows it's on the money. I found that if I throw her in neutral, and keep the throttle going or at least rev it 1/2 way through the turn, it stays running.

Originally Posted by kr98664

Some more random thoughts:


How repeatable is the fault?


Could it be related to the degree of turn at the steering wheel? For most straight driving, one rarely moves the wheel more than a 1/8th turn. Turn at an intersection and now you're moving the wheel a 1/4 turn or more. Maybe something is funky with the wiring near the ignition switch. A long shot, but something to consider.


Does the truck have cruise control? Perhaps there's some weird wiring fault (two wires rubbing together?) and turning the wheel completes a short circuit via the slip rings for the cruise control. Another long shot, I agree.


How fast do you have to be going to kill the engine? Can you find a deserted parking lot and try the same turn at increasing speeds until the fault returns? That would give you an idea of how much side force is required to cause the fault.


I still think you could try jacking up one side and see what happens. It would only take a couple of minutes to try.


The most likely culprit is probably something with the floats. However, it would be good to know if the fault is related to side force (speed around a corner) or steering wheel position.