I did the power door fix, wrapping the door actuator motor 'resistor' in foil, and all was good.
This morning I started the truck to move it, all fine, then pulled the door panel off to readjust the window guide in the door as windows were binding. After adjustment I went to turn on the ignition to test the window and the Theft light is on, and the truck won't start! It's a1999 F150, 5.4L.

Updated (again):
1. The power comes on when I turn the key to ON, then when I turn the key to start the truck I hear nothing, no clicking, and the power goes off.
2. After leaving the key in the On position for 45 seconds, the Theft light blinks rapidly, the odometer is all dashes, the RPM and Speedometer gauges swing to max, then back to 0.
3. When turning the key to start the truck, there's a 1 click sound (solenoid?), then all power goes off on the instrument panel, no cranking.

What might have gone wrong here?
Could the wrapping of the 'resistor' in foil in the door actuator have caused an electrical short?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...s-fixed-6.html

Any help is appreciated.

Below happened previously but not any more...
4. When I turn the power back on to ON and push the buttons for the windows, the power seems to cycle On / Off in 2 second intervals, as the window goes down a bit, then stops, then goes down a bit, stops etc. and the lights on the instrument panel dim / go on / dim in the same cycle.

 

Welcome to FTE. I moved your post from where it was buried to the correct F-150 forum.

Good luck!

 

Thank you, I appreciate it

 

Battery fully charged? All contacts clean and tight?

 

@Sam I am
Yes, I tried a different battery for good measure but not difference. I've also charged the battery to see if it made difference, but no go.

Thanks,
Matz

 

The rapid click sounds like it is not getting enough juice to the starter.
You checked the battery, did you verify all the connections are clean and tight?
And by ALL connections I mean ALL the cables at each end.
There are several of them.

 

I only checked the battery terminals and they are clean and tight. Not sure where to check for ALL the connections, just trace the battery cables backward?

Also, the clicking sound only happened the first few times I tried to start it, now there's no clicking sound at first, then after the rapid theft light switches to a slow blinking, there's 1 click, then nothing.

Thanks for your help

 

If the starter relay will not even pull up, your out of power right from the battery.
No power and the theft system reacts from the voltage being low as well as the dash will not work due to low voltage.
Remove the cable terminals from the battery, reclean both the battery terminals and the cable terminals inside to positively rule out they are the problem. Not just look at it!
Measure the voltage at the battery. It should be about 12 volts in a charged battery.
If your sure these items are cleared, the cables are suspect from corrosion.
It's no more than this; a high resistance at some location in the main power chain.
Current draw through a high resistance leaves no voltage to operate the rest of the systems.
It doesn't make a difference about the past. It's what you have to deal with now.
Good luck.

 

I went back and cleaned the terminals with a dremel, copper wire wheel and all is nice and shiny. The voltage on the battery is 12.4. Still no change in the behavior. Ive tried the turn the key to on, wait 15 min, pull key out,,try to start. And the disconnect battery for an hour for the 'anti theft to reset'...nothing has worked so far. I only have 1 key so I can't try another one. Maybe I need to have a locksmith re-program new keys, if the one I have is bad?

 

If you have a no crank, dash lights go out, speedo goes all dashes and gages sweep, it does no good to reboot the PCM, leave the key on or any of those action, without power. It's common sense.
Those items have no effect on a no crank condition.
The one click tells you the start relay closed, the starter tried to rotate.
The high current the start circuit tries to take to rotate the engine across the high resistance condition drops all the voltage.
You have to check the main power wiring and connections until you find the fault.
Having 12.4 volts at the battery is good.
It is possible to have good voltage at the battery but still have an open strap between cells in the battery.
That will act the same way.
A load test on the battery would pick that out.
Good luck.

 

OK, that saves me some time and money to know it's not PATS related. Sounds like I need to take it to the shop to get this figured out. I don't think it's the battery, since I've tried another good battery with no change.
Thanks

 

crawl under the radiator and put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and make sure it will turn ...... make sure the AC compressor is not locked up and holding tight thru the belt.

 

Steve,
I just checked both, crank pulley turns, not easily but with some nominal muscle applied, and the ac is also fine. I also pulled the belt off and checked again and all seems ok. Any other suggestions?

 

It's not getting power. It will be low battery, bad connection(s) somewhere, or cable corroded or mouse'd.
Got pictures of your battery cable area? Pull the black plastic cover off the solenoid on the firewall and show us that too.

 

once you figure out the power routing, you might jump around the solenoid and see if you put power to the starter, does it crank. ....... and when you turn the key, have someone verify power with a volt meter at the battery, at the end of the cable, at the solenoid, out of solenoid, etc.