Wicked wheel 2 vs riff raff billet wheel
#2
#3
#5
I can't say on the wicked wheel. But I have Riff Raffi wheel. Ive had it on my truck a year now. Seems better than my stock wheel. Its a 11 blade single cut wheel. Stock was 13 if I remember for late 04 and up wheels. I'm currently towing about16k, combined. On a 2500 mile trek heading up northern Canada and it seems good with my tunes. Been averaging 800-900 degrees on level grade @70 mph with a few hits at 1200 going up a grade.
I'll add that my truck still has the original turbo and when I did the turbo clean last year my actuator rod was worn down. You can't replace just the rod. So, I replaced the unison ring, cleaned the turbo and she's been doing good. Still looking for a donor turbo to rebuild to make it right.
So, I've been happy with it so far. Oh, the whistle is just a tad over my stock wheel.
I'll add that my truck still has the original turbo and when I did the turbo clean last year my actuator rod was worn down. You can't replace just the rod. So, I replaced the unison ring, cleaned the turbo and she's been doing good. Still looking for a donor turbo to rebuild to make it right.
So, I've been happy with it so far. Oh, the whistle is just a tad over my stock wheel.
#6
So, I happen to have both, uninstalled still. After lots of reading (mainly on other boards because FTE seems to have a lack of information on this issue ), I came to these conclusions based entirely on what was posted on the internet (so remember that free advice is worth what you pay ):
1. The WW2 will work better at high RPMs, but at lower RPMs can actually flow less than a single plane wheel, which will increase EGT in the "normal" driving range.
2. The Riff Raff wheel, since it's a single plane, won't run as well at high RPMs, but in the normal range for DD and towing with 3.73s will flow more air and lower EGTs.
3. By "high RPMs" I mean north of 3000-3500 RPMs, where you'd be at for drag passes and if you had 4.30s in a Tow Boss or 4.88s in a C&C DRW. I don't really get above 3k unless I'm "cleaning the EGR valve out"
4. Both have a different "feel" when it comes to spool up, mainly because both are lighter billet wheels.
5. I have the Atlas 40 FICM tune and original exhaust, so I'm concerned with EGT and will try the RR wheel first. If EGTs go down, the WW2 probably will never get a chance, unless I put an EGT gauge into our second bone-stock 6.0 and just want to play with it.
6. This guy here has the RR wheel, and convinced me it was where I needed to at least start, and hopefully stay: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=125444 @Toreador_Diesel
Riff Raff is on the left in the box without the logo:
1. The WW2 will work better at high RPMs, but at lower RPMs can actually flow less than a single plane wheel, which will increase EGT in the "normal" driving range.
2. The Riff Raff wheel, since it's a single plane, won't run as well at high RPMs, but in the normal range for DD and towing with 3.73s will flow more air and lower EGTs.
3. By "high RPMs" I mean north of 3000-3500 RPMs, where you'd be at for drag passes and if you had 4.30s in a Tow Boss or 4.88s in a C&C DRW. I don't really get above 3k unless I'm "cleaning the EGR valve out"
4. Both have a different "feel" when it comes to spool up, mainly because both are lighter billet wheels.
5. I have the Atlas 40 FICM tune and original exhaust, so I'm concerned with EGT and will try the RR wheel first. If EGTs go down, the WW2 probably will never get a chance, unless I put an EGT gauge into our second bone-stock 6.0 and just want to play with it.
6. This guy here has the RR wheel, and convinced me it was where I needed to at least start, and hopefully stay: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=125444 @Toreador_Diesel
Riff Raff is on the left in the box without the logo:
#7
So, I happen to have both, uninstalled still. After lots of reading (mainly on other boards because FTE seems to have a lack of information on this issue ), I came to these conclusions based entirely on what was posted on the internet (so remember that free advice is worth what you pay ):
1. The WW2 will work better at high RPMs, but at lower RPMs can actually flow less than a single plane wheel, which will increase EGT in the "normal" driving range.
2. The Riff Raff wheel, since it's a single plane, won't run as well at high RPMs, but in the normal range for DD and towing with 3.73s will flow more air and lower EGTs.
3. By "high RPMs" I mean north of 4000 RPMs, where you'd be at for drag passes and if you had 4.30s in a Tow Boss or 4.88s in a C&C DRW.
4. Both have a different "feel" when it comes to spool up, mainly because both are lighter billet wheels.
5. I have the Atlas 40 FICM tune and original exhaust, so I'm concerned with EGR and will try the RR wheel first. If EGTs go down, the WW2 probably will never get a chance, unless I put an EGT gauge into our second bone-stock 6.0 and just want to play with it.
6. This guy here has the RR wheel, and convinced me it was where I needed to at least start, and hopefully stay: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Toreador_Diesel @Toreador_Diesel
Riff Raff is on the left in the box without the logo:
1. The WW2 will work better at high RPMs, but at lower RPMs can actually flow less than a single plane wheel, which will increase EGT in the "normal" driving range.
2. The Riff Raff wheel, since it's a single plane, won't run as well at high RPMs, but in the normal range for DD and towing with 3.73s will flow more air and lower EGTs.
3. By "high RPMs" I mean north of 4000 RPMs, where you'd be at for drag passes and if you had 4.30s in a Tow Boss or 4.88s in a C&C DRW.
4. Both have a different "feel" when it comes to spool up, mainly because both are lighter billet wheels.
5. I have the Atlas 40 FICM tune and original exhaust, so I'm concerned with EGR and will try the RR wheel first. If EGTs go down, the WW2 probably will never get a chance, unless I put an EGT gauge into our second bone-stock 6.0 and just want to play with it.
6. This guy here has the RR wheel, and convinced me it was where I needed to at least start, and hopefully stay: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Toreador_Diesel @Toreador_Diesel
Riff Raff is on the left in the box without the logo:
My stock tune i was at 900 more so. Single plane wheel is definitely better.
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#8
I'm running a stock 03-04 early turbo, 4" straight exhaust. Have GearHead SRL+ Extreme tune with Atlas 40 FICM tune as my DD. Truck is a late 04', ICP in the valve cover, old HPOP. Am interested in upgrading the turbo or the wheel.
EGTs@70mph are under 800, normally around 600-700. It's interesting to see that the RR wheel increased EGT... was that towing? What about empty, any increase in EGT or performance?
EGTs@70mph are under 800, normally around 600-700. It's interesting to see that the RR wheel increased EGT... was that towing? What about empty, any increase in EGT or performance?
#9
I'm running a stock 03-04 early turbo, 4" straight exhaust. Have GearHead SRL+ Extreme tune with Atlas 40 FICM tune as my DD. Truck is a late 04', ICP in the valve cover, old HPOP. Am interested in upgrading the turbo or the wheel.
EGTs@70mph are under 800, normally around 600-700. It's interesting to see that the RR wheel increased EGT... was that towing? What about empty, any increase in EGT or performance?
EGTs@70mph are under 800, normally around 600-700. It's interesting to see that the RR wheel increased EGT... was that towing? What about empty, any increase in EGT or performance?
#10
I can't say on the wicked wheel. But I have Riff Raffi wheel. Ive had it on my truck a year now. Seems better than my stock wheel. Its a 11 blade single cut wheel. Stock was 13 if I remember for late 04 and up wheels. I'm currently towing about16k, combined. On a 2500 mile trek heading up northern Canada and it seems good with my tunes. Been averaging 800-900 degrees on level grade @70 mph with a few hits at 1200 going up a grade.
I'll add that my truck still has the original turbo and when I did the turbo clean last year my actuator rod was worn down. You can't replace just the rod. So, I replaced the unison ring, cleaned the turbo and she's been doing good. Still looking for a donor turbo to rebuild to make it right.
So, I've been happy with it so far. Oh, the whistle is just a tad over my stock wheel.
I'll add that my truck still has the original turbo and when I did the turbo clean last year my actuator rod was worn down. You can't replace just the rod. So, I replaced the unison ring, cleaned the turbo and she's been doing good. Still looking for a donor turbo to rebuild to make it right.
So, I've been happy with it so far. Oh, the whistle is just a tad over my stock wheel.
Maybe I should have been more specific. This post say's his EGTs are 800-900. My stock EGT is 600-700@ 70mph, empty.
Xaviar- what are you getting for EGT's empty @70mph?
#11
One day I hope to upgrade the turbo and intake from WindRunner. For now, I'm happy with it.
#12
It actually does increase EGTs and is worse on the powermax.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-gen-ii-2.html
This is why I went with Clay's wheel instead. Single plane billet wheel that performs throughout the RPMs (atleast for me it does).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-gen-ii-2.html
This is why I went with Clay's wheel instead. Single plane billet wheel that performs throughout the RPMs (atleast for me it does).
#14
#15
I have the powermax now and am pretty happy with it. I figure those bigger turbos really won't shine without bigger injectors and upgraded transmission so I don't really think I am up for all of that just yet. I don't tow or race but I like a cool sounding truck and the speed comes in handy every now and then.