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So I'm new to this side, usually just creep when I'm bored and have some extra bucks laying around. (Mod ideas) usually in the bullnoses section
Anyway, my truck( 95 f250, zf5 3.55 psd) stock as stock can be. Stock exhaust still, stock air cleaner, has a new water pump and starter within five thousand miles. 326k miles.
So the issue(s)
Cel has been on since we bought it about 8 years ago, the po said they had been since the turbo pedestal was upgraded(stock but better or some ****) and didn't change how the truck drove
I check them and get these codes
P1280
P0107
P0113
Mind you this was last year.
So whatever, "could be anything" and "how the hell is it running" are my responses from the two diesel guys around here. Well, it's been fine since I learned to drive on it back then with 256k on it.
Here's what it does(and has done)
It squeaks at a higher rpm, i.e. 2800 or so, and seemingly runs out of steam. And it's not a pulley or belt because free rev doesn't do that.
Since my last deployment I've noticed a lack in power, both hauling a heavy load(however I thought that was due to having sat for the previous six months) and a louder injection noise.
What I've done.
Changed icp. I also unplugged it and the map sensor before I changed it and had no changes. Ran and drove the same way.
Oil change(this helped the squeak and overall performance of the truck, which makes me think a filter or something may be weak or clogged)
Plans
Fuel filter
Take it to the ford guy(has a dealer computer from retiring from fords diesel department, and a super fancy automotive computer) but that's 150$ for a code scan and idk about diagnosis
Change map sensor with the one on my parts idi turbo truck
Is it an hpop getting weak? Not so sure about electrical stuff. Imma gasser guy and newer to troubleshooting powerstrokes. My John Deere is pretty easy when it doesn't run.
So I'm new to this side, usually just creep when I'm bored and have some extra bucks laying around. (Mod ideas) usually in the bullnoses section
Anyway, my truck( 95 f250, zf5 3.55 psd) stock as stock can be. Stock exhaust still, stock air cleaner, has a new water pump and starter within five thousand miles. 326k miles.
So the issue(s)
Cel has been on since we bought it about 8 years ago, the po said they had been since the turbo pedestal was upgraded(stock but better or some ****) and didn't change how the truck drove
I check them and get these codes
P1280
P0107
P0113
Mind you this was last year.
So whatever, "could be anything" and "how the hell is it running" are my responses from the two diesel guys around here. Well, it's been fine since I learned to drive on it back then with 256k on it.
Here's what it does(and has done)
It squeaks at a higher rpm, i.e. 2800 or so, and seemingly runs out of steam. And it's not a pulley or belt because free rev doesn't do that.
Since my last deployment I've noticed a lack in power, both hauling a heavy load(however I thought that was due to having sat for the previous six months) and a louder injection noise.
What I've done.
Changed icp. I also unplugged it and the map sensor before I changed it and had no changes. Ran and drove the same way.
Oil change(this helped the squeak and overall performance of the truck, which makes me think a filter or something may be weak or clogged)
Plans
Fuel filter
Take it to the ford guy(has a dealer computer from retiring from fords diesel department, and a super fancy automotive computer) but that's 150$ for a code scan and idk about diagnosis
Change map sensor with the one on my parts idi turbo truck
Is it an hpop getting weak? Not so sure about electrical stuff. Imma gasser guy and newer to troubleshooting powerstrokes. My John Deere is pretty easy when it doesn't run.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
For what your "mechanic" is going to charge to scan codes is half the cost of purchasing the software yourself - Auto Enginuity. Being able to monitor your HPO while driving and a duty cycle reading while give a clear picture if the pump or maybe the IPR is on its last leg. Check the tin nut on the IPR as well and make sure its tightened.
It takes maybe 5 mins to smoke a cigarette hook up the scanner and take a minute to read the codes. 150? WTF
That being said from a high level view it sounds like your HPOP may be becoming weak. The increased injector clack sounds like low fuel pressure. Take a fuel pressure reading at the bowl shrader valve and report back.
If an oil change helped by actually giving a seat of the pants change in power, was it low when changed? Like 6-7 quarts low?
When you change the filter let us know if its black... this will also be a sign of worn injector orings that bleed pressure past the orings and into your fuel. Have you had substantial oil consumption?
The P1280 should would have been been remedied with the ICP sensor if it was OE from FORD and not Oreillys Junk, and truly an ICP issue. It could elude to the HPOP as well. Take a look at the pigtail wiring going into the plug and make sure it is not chaffed.
the p0107 can be tricky. It can apply to the Map which sounds like you are going to swap anyways, or the BARO. Try the MAP first and report back.
Id disregard the P0113 for now. Having the codes cleared and see what pops up would also be beneficial considering this was a year ago. They could have been stored and we are going down the wrong road of trouble shooting.
The squeak would be a belt or pulley but it sounds like it is not. They act different in neutral and when under load too, but if the oil change did it, then good on you I guess.
For what your "mechanic" is going to charge to scan codes is half the cost of purchasing the software yourself - Auto Enginuity. Being able to monitor your HPO while driving and a duty cycle reading while give a clear picture if the pump or maybe the IPR is on its last leg. Check the tin nut on the IPR as well and make sure its tightened.
It takes maybe 5 mins to smoke a cigarette hook up the scanner and take a minute to read the codes. 150? WTF
That being said from a high level view it sounds like your HPOP may be becoming weak. The increased injector clack sounds like low fuel pressure. Take a fuel pressure reading at the bowl shrader valve and report back.
If an oil change helped by actually giving a seat of the pants change in power, was it low when changed? Like 6-7 quarts low?
When you change the filter let us know if its black... this will also be a sign of worn injector orings that bleed pressure past the orings and into your fuel. Have you had substantial oil consumption?
The P1280 should would have been been remedied with the ICP sensor if it was OE from FORD and not Oreillys Junk, and truly an ICP issue. It could elude to the HPOP as well. Take a look at the pigtail wiring going into the plug and make sure it is not chaffed.
the p0107 can be tricky. It can apply to the Map which sounds like you are going to swap anyways, or the BARO. Try the MAP first and report back.
Id disregard the P0113 for now. Having the codes cleared and see what pops up would also be beneficial considering this was a year ago. They could have been stored and we are going down the wrong road of trouble shooting.
The squeak would be a belt or pulley but it sounds like it is not. They act different in neutral and when under load too, but if the oil change did it, then good on you I guess.
What is auto enginuty? Is it monitoring system for the computer?
Ipr is right there on the front by the left first cylinder on the odd aluminum gold colored thing right?
It was actually after about a week or two "when he could get around to it" lol only diesel guy around here so he can do what he wants.
Not certain where the shrader Valve is on a powerstroke, but I'll find it. I figure I'll just change the fuel filter and see how it runs. Then do a psi test(unless the sensor is good and a monitor or something can tell me)
No it was two quarts tops. It had been like 7k miles though, on the filter. I dump about a quart a week from this damn dipstick leak. Done replaced that **** twice. About to try that 300$ aluminum adapter.
It was an Oriellys junk icp, but the old one was so bad it was leaking lol. The connector looked good though.
Where is the Baro? The other one I've heard was the sensor under the air I take and was useless.
The oil change didn't help the squeak, but it did help reformable some. I'm running a thing of stanadyne through my next fill up and see how that does.
I was looking at getting a stack of upgrades( hydra, or a full tuner/monitor, exhaust, and hpop since I need one(looking at adrenaline, but never heard much or done research on any) want to keep it stock but if I'm paying 5-600$ I might as well pay the little bit more and get a bigger upgrade for when if I do smaller injectors.
What is auto enginuty? Is it monitoring for the computer? Auto Enginuity is a software program for PC based systems. It is very helpful for the common 7.3 DIYer to troubleshoot systems that can't be done by common thought. You can see almost everything your computer sees by monitoring or data logging PIDS. It is about as good as it gets besides the expensive FORD rotunda tools and Dealer software packages.It can be used on all vehicles as well. You will need the enhanced FORD package for the 7.3s
Ipr is right there on the front by the left first cylinder on the odd aluminum gold colored thing right?
It on the driver side below the HPOP to the right of the fuel bowl in the engine valley. Pics for reference. One is off a SD but is very similar
It was actually after about a week or two "when he could get around to it" lol only diesel guy around here so he can do what he wants.
My brother lives in MT where the closest shop that knows what a phillips looks like is 80 miles from his ranch house. He paid 800$ and 3 weeks time to have his vavle cover harnesses replaced. Wouldn't listen to me... nothing wrong with being a self taught mechanic, but not knowing **** about diesels is not an excuse either when it comes to fixing them and charging a premium. Took them two week till I called and walked the guy through it.Had no idea they were going to charge him that much. I could have flown up and done it in the airport lot and flown back for 800$
Not certain where the shrader Valve is on a powerstroke, but I'll find it. I figure I'll just change the fuel filter and see how it runs. Then do a psi test(unless the sensor is good and a monitor or something can tell me)
See the first picture above. Its on the fuel bowl on the right side of it. You can use a fuel gauge to get pressure. It will pulsate and leak when you test it but it should hit 55psi approx on a tire gauge, if it doesn't your filter is very restrictive and needs to be replaced, or your mechanical fuel pump is on its way out
No it was two quarts tops. It had been like 7k miles though, on the filter. I dump about a quart a week from this damn dipstick leak. Done replaced that **** twice. About to try that 300$ aluminum adapter.
Ok that wouldn't cause an oil starvation issue. The nice thing about these motors is if they run 6-7 qts low on oil they loose power and will ultimately shut off as the HPOP will empty even with 7 qts still in the pan, its better than burning up the bottom end like every other non HEUI(7.3 are HEUI injected diesel engines) injected motor once all of the oil disappears/Unless you pull the motor its your only option, at a quart a week it pays itself off pretty quick. I have put dozens of those damn things in 7.3s not sure why they have not come down in price from my purchases alone lol
It was an Oriellys junk icp, but the old one was so bad it was leaking lol. The connector looked good though.
I hate to say it, but the quality of non OE parts for these trucks is so poor they can be good for five miles or bad right out of the box. Kick your mechanic in the *** next time you see him and put this in yourself :Injection Control Pressure ICP Sensor 94-96
Where is the Baro? The other one I've heard was the sensor under the air I take and was useless.
Its in the cab, under the dash on the drivers side by the steering column.
The oil change didn't help the squeak, but it did help reformable some. I'm running a thing of stanadyne through my next fill up and see how that does.
I was looking at getting a stack of upgrades( hydra, or a full tuner/monitor, exhaust, and hpop since I need one(looking at adrenaline, but never heard much or done research on any) want to keep it stock but if I'm paying 5-600$ I might as well pay the little bit more and get a bigger upgrade for when if I do smaller injectors.
I'd work on getting her running correctly and the leaks fixed, we can help you out in the mod department.
Originally Posted by dylansf23
What is auto enginuty? Is it monitoring for the computer? Auto Enginuity is a software program for PC based systems. It is very helpful for the common 7.3 DIYer to troubleshoot systems that can't be done by common thought. You can see almost everything your computer sees by monitoring or data logging PIDS. It is about as good as it gets besides the expensive FORD rotunda tools and Dealer software packages.It can be used on all vehicles as well. You will need the enhanced FORD package for the 7.3s
its worth every penny IMO AutoEnginuity Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03
Ipr is right there on the front by the left first cylinder on the odd aluminum gold colored thing right?
It on the driver side below the HPOP to the right of the fuel bowl in the engine valley. Pics for reference. One is off a SD but is very similar
It was actually after about a week or two "when he could get around to it" lol only diesel guy around here so he can do what he wants.
My brother lives in MT where the closest shop that knows what a phillips looks like is 80 miles from his ranch house. He paid 800$ and 3 weeks time to have his vavle cover harnesses replaced. Wouldn't listen to me... nothing wrong with being a self taught mechanic, but not knowing **** about diesels is not an excuse either when it comes to fixing them and charging a premium. Took them two week till I called and walked the guy through it.Had no idea they were going to charge him that much. I could have flown up and done it in the airport lot and flown back for 800$
Not certain where the shrader Valve is on a powerstroke, but I'll find it. I figure I'll just change the fuel filter and see how it runs. Then do a psi test(unless the sensor is good and a monitor or something can tell me)
See the first picture above. Its on the fuel bowl on the right side of it. You can use a fuel gauge to get pressure. It will pulsate and leak when you test it but it should hit 55psi approx on a tire gauge, if it doesn't your filter is very restrictive and needs to be replaced, or your mechanical fuel pump is on its way out
No it was two quarts tops. It had been like 7k miles though, on the filter. I dump about a quart a week from this damn dipstick leak. Done replaced that **** twice. About to try that 300$ aluminum adapter.
Ok that wouldn't cause an oil starvation issue. The nice thing about these motors is if they run 6-7 qts low on oil they loose power and will ultimately shut off as the HPOP will empty even with 7 qts still in the pan, its better than burning up the bottom end like every other non HEUI(7.3 are HEUI injected diesel engines) injected motor once all of the oil disappears/Unless you pull the motor its your only option, at a quart a week it pays itself off pretty quick. I have put dozens of those damn things in 7.3s not sure why they have not come down in price from my purchases alone lol
TO UNDERSTAND HOW OIL IS USED TO RUN FUEL INJECTION ON THESE ENGINES...HERE IS A VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcLA7U697jA
It was an Oriellys junk icp, but the old one was so bad it was leaking lol. The connector looked good though.
I hate to say it, but the quality of non OE parts for these trucks is so poor they can be good for five miles or bad right out of the box. Kick your mechanic in the *** next time you see him and put this in yourself :Injection Control Pressure ICP Sensor 94-96
Where is the Baro? The other one I've heard was the sensor under the air I take and was useless.
Its in the cab, under the dash on the drivers side by the steering column.
The oil change didn't help the squeak, but it did help reformable some. I'm running a thing of stanadyne through my next fill up and see how that does.
I was looking at getting a stack of upgrades( hydra, or a full tuner/monitor, exhaust, and hpop since I need one(looking at adrenaline, but never heard much or done research on any) want to keep it stock but if I'm paying 5-600$ I might as well pay the little bit more and get a bigger upgrade for when if I do smaller injectors.
I'd work on getting her running correctly and the leaks fixed, we can help you out in the mod department.
My mechanic. Lol. I REFUSE to pay someone to do an easy/quick job unless it's way better. (20$ oil change in my yota Coupon, lifter change and carb sync in my dual weber setup)
Alright. So I went to my buddies shop, he ended up having dropped ten grand last week to get two new computers. One is a Maximus 2.0 which was great. And some other fancier pin and connector tester/reflasher.
Long story short, buzz tested and cylinder contributions were great and passed. My oriely icp fixed that issue. Still had a -40 intake temp so Imma plug that back in. And my map/Baro code was still there. Started to use the pin on the map and got the proper hertz at sea level. But the other thing said I was idling with 14.8 psi. Next step was to test the Baro. Got to looking up the connectors and it said when Baro fails, sets the map to 14.5. Sooo I'm waiting on that come in and she should be good!
My injection pressure at idle was around 580 psi. Holding 2k in neutral was 860. And a rev up from idle to my squeak was 1400ish psi.
Also my spare map was bad.
That auto enginuty is a bit out of my range. (Getting out of the military here and trying to save and really don't want to do an hpop or mods but I know what it'll do as far as performance wise and drive ability.
Damn. Your brother sounds like my wife's best friend. She paid some guy 60 to change her oil in the parking lot and then blew her oil filter cap off driving back only to replace it all herself because "she's an independent woman who don't need no man" all the while I'm telling her how to do it.
I'm gonna test the fuel pressure and do a filter change then test it again, but I think my truck is gonna have some ***** after this.
I just find it funny how it's been running like this for over a decade and never had an issue hauling lol. Makes me really appreciate the 7.3 powerstroke lol.
So you have used the aluminum adapter? Is it worth it? I'm gonna cad draft one if I get it and make copies for myself and friends because **** that 300$. That's a 200$ part tops. And that's still a lot.
Fuel filter leaks someplace, or something fuel wise. Under turbo is always puddle of something. And always a slight diesel smell. But the fuel release valve doesn't leak.
My buddy builds and sells efuel kits so if the bowl is cracked or something, and I'm getting a new hpop, I'm gonna do both. And I feel like the efuel is a hell of a lot better setup anyway
So last night left a decent puddle right, as to be expected after idling for better half of two hours.
So today at lunch I check my oil. Full. Hmm whatever maybe it's the spot. Turn the truck around after lunch. Still full. And it drips off the stick. And isn't black.
Yes I did change my oil, but it's about five minutes of engine on before that ****s black. This was a dark green? I think. Normal oil pressure and no new sounds. Coolants not drastically low, but I haven't checked that in a year and a half. It's not the three quart puddle I left nor the still full dip stick.
Does the buzz test and cylinder contribution dump that much fuel?
Its diesel or coolant. Smell it, drain the bottom fluid in your pan. Figure out which one. Injector orings do not make oil, a cracked cup will make oil with diesel adding, or an oil cooler failing will mix coolant in the oil, but much more likely oil in the coolant...
The buzz test and contribution test are completely irrelevant to your issue.
I thought they were but why would they all be good then suddenly I have thin oil? I couldn't smell or taste any diesel, but I'll know shortly when I got get oil and change it.
05-18-2016, 12:00 PM
