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1948 Ford F6 226 Holley 897 Carburetor Rebuild

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Old 04-18-2016, 06:24 PM
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1948 Ford F6 226 Holley 897 Carburetor Rebuild

I decided over the weekend to attempt to rebuild my Holley 897 Carburetor. I have the carb manual, the rebuild kit, and looked up many posts.
The first time I was complete, I had the float incorrectly set (leaking fuel while on). I took back off, and reset the float. It sounds great but I must keep the choke plate on the airhorn assembly open wide for her to idle at the correct speed.
If I press on the gas and the choke plate starts to close the idle ramps up fast.


I've attached some pics for your amusement. My wife wasn't too happy that I did the rebuild on the kitchen table
There is a video so you can hear her purr.


I know just enough to be dangerous, what is the carb doing? It's all new inside...


Thanx.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:57 PM
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Chris, you have earned some rep points from me for doing the carb on the kitchen table.
If only I could give you double points for doing it instead of the tax related documents that might to be among the stuff on the table too? The taxes can wait - we got a few extra days to file this year.


I watched the video too. Your engine looks just like mine. What was the part number of the rebuild kit you used?

Tom
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by pineconeford
Chris, you have earned some rep points from me for doing the carb on the kitchen table.
If only I could give you double points for doing it instead of the tax related documents that might to be among the stuff on the table too? The taxes can wait - we got a few extra days to file this year.


I watched the video too. Your engine looks just like mine. What was the part number of the rebuild kit you used?

Tom

well I think I paid way too much for it, but I got it off of eBay.
Carter Carburetor Model BB BBR1 1BBL Complete Carb Rebuild Kit 2095 | eBay


I'm not sure I liked the gaskets, but the parts seemed fine. Almost everything....More than most I think...
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:40 PM
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Does it make sense that even when the engine is warm the choke is 100% open and she idles great. If I push down (or lift the rod) on the accelerator that the choke automatically closes and the idle jumps up. But the choke doesn't re-open to get her back to idle.
Is the choke plate sticking?
What is normal when applying the gas.

Thanx.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 03:22 PM
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The choke should be pushed in on the dash and the plate wide open after warming up a bit. Open is off (warm engine) closed is on (cold engine). I bought my kit at a local parts store for $25.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 76-5.0
The choke should be pushed in on the dash and the plate wide open after warming up a bit. Open is off (warm engine) closed is on (cold engine). I bought my kit at a local parts store for $25.
Well that helps, but what I was saying was more without the choke cable even hooked up. Just the choke plate closes when gas is pressed but when released it's not coming up.

Maybe the Choke lever is interfering with it? Or maybe the fast idle rod?
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:59 PM
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The choke cable will return the choke plate to the correct position when hooked up and pushed in. Not important what it does with no cable on it. I pull my choke all the way out when it's cold. After it fires up I push it in to keep it running until it warms up and will idle on it's own without dying.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 76-5.0
The choke cable will return the choke plate to the correct position when hooked up and pushed in. Not important what it does with no cable on it.
ok I purchased a cable from LMC but it came in without a ball socket connector on the end and the **** side falls through the dash opening? I have a '48 F6 do you know where that cable replacement is? Thanx.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=46
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:11 PM
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Same thing on my 48, 226. The cable I got was too small for the dash hole, so I put washers on it. I carefully measured the cable and cut the casing to length without the core in it. I then replaced the core and cut it to length after bending a loop around the ball stud on the choke linkage. I don't know who sells the cable with the ball socket. Mine was $8 at the local parts store. I had to make the "clamp bracket" that hooks the casing to the carb screw.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:19 PM
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Thanx. I thought I could cut-off the old ball socket and use a mechanical clamp to connect it to the new cable once the right length. The original cable was much nicer. The **** was part of the bezel that held it in the dash. too bad can't find new..
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:35 PM
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well I tried putting the choke cable in tonight, but found the LMC choke cable's casing is too short. It won't go into the choke wire bracket unless I pull the cable so tight, which isn't good. I have no idea why, this is a F-6 but its a 226 and 897 carb, so no different.
 
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:48 PM
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The choke cable is shorter on the V8 trucks. Most parts sold today are designed for the V8 trucks. I think you just found one of the parts that doesn't fit a six cylinder truck. Bummer.
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:35 PM
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Yea, I guess so. It works now, but I'll replace it soon since it interferes with the vent latch from opening. thx.
 
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:11 PM
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I can't answer why you're having problems.

But I'm confused about why you used a Carter rebuild kit on a Holley carb.

That's what your link shows...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-Carbu...mtr&rmvSB=true
 
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:34 PM
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well the problem is choke related as the cable length is too short (it's made it but interferes with my vent latch). The engine and carb (there is a video in the tread) purr.

The eBay link is jacked it was:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111808699171?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITHolley.. for sure
 


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