I have a 1961 F-100 Unibody, has a 302 out of a 1975 truck, and I am looking to crank out some more power. I also have a 460 sitting in the garage, would I do better to do a full swap? Or are there any cheap fuel injection kits available?

 

Well, yeah if you want more power, installing a 460 oughtta git 'er done.

Basically you want to make sure you're getting all the performance the current engine is capable of. Maybe not a lot in this instance when installed in a heavy truck.

But, make sure ignition timing and distributor curve is optomized. A lot of people leave plenty of zip on the table by not investigating their distributor. Even 2 or 3 degrees of initial ignition advance either way can make a noticeable difference in driveability. The total amount of mechanical advance, and when it comes in RPM wise makes a huge difference as well. Check with a timing light with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Basically with a V8 you want to see 38 degrees of advance at say, under 3000 RPM. With vacuum advance connected this will be bumped to around 50 or so at steady cruise on the highway.

 

Put a 292 in it.

But since it does already have a 302 in it, I would look for a roller cam 302 to swap in and since they have strong aftermarket support, you can get just about any power level you want out of it. And it should get pretty decent mileage.

I don't know of any cheap injection kits. Would you really want cheap, anyway? There is Megasquirt, which you can probably use to get a good injection setup installed $ cost effectively but it is heavily diy and will probably require a lot of your time to get it working and tuned.

 

Remember when going after more HP. you need to upgrade your brake system. You'll also need to look at your frame. More torque = more stress on these old frames. So you'll need to look it over real good and box in what you can.

 

For about $1000 you can get a set of Procomp aluminum heads, an aluminum intake manifold and a cam kit.


You didn't mention what carb and exhaust you are running.


That's a lot less work than doing an engine swap, not to mention that 460 weighs a lot more than a 302 and will drink a lot more gas.

 

I am running a flowmaster glasspack, not sure what model, and i already get like 8mpg so that's not a problem. Also, I am still using 4 wheel drums so yeah, probably time for an upgrade.

 

A 1975 302 is a dog, so it is no surprise that the mileage is so bad. If you build it right, you should get more power and much better mileage.

 

Not sure if there's much difference/improvement between the years from the 302 between the years 70-75; having said that, in having the engine rebuilt considered increase in power then took into consideration it's a truck, with the T18 transmission and 3.54 rear gear ratio decided what is the point, with the current configuration and since installing Holley 4bbl carb. can't get into the secondary jets?

 

Assuming that the carb is in generally good shape, if you're not getting into the secondaries then you have the wrong spring installed or the carb is simply larger than needed.

If the info here is accurate, Ford 302 V8 Engine Specs, 302 Engine Information, Firing Order : Engine Facts.com then there is quite a difference at the beginning of the '70 to '75 range.

The point of increasing power is to increase efficiency, which translates to better fuel economy and increase enjoyability. These trucks can get 15-20mpg when things are right. And I'm not talking about a race engine, here, I'm talking about simple things like increasing compression, slightly bigger cam, dual exhaust, 4 barrel and maybe some basic port matching at the least to make a street engine a better street engine.

 

I go with Tedster9 on his thoughts of timing and advance curve. And I think going from 1970 to 75 is/was a DEPROVEMENT as far as performance goes and it got worse all the way to !979. A sound stock engine that is exempt from emission testing can be made to perform well without going radical inside the engine.
Just upgrading my 66, 240 to DSII and tweaking the advance curve, you wouldn't think the same engine was under the hood. AND sometimes I think the gas gauge is stuck, cannot give you figure but I know the mileage has improved significantly.

 

Also, should i swap to my edelbrock 4 barrel carb with electric choke? I'm having problems with my choke but frankly I've no clue how to set it up.

 

Which size is the Edelbrock? A 500 is the only on that is suitable for that engine at the current time. A bigger one may only add other issues.

I'd learn how to adjust the choke. Is it cable operated? I think it is a pretty standard procedure and adjustment should be covered in the shop manual. If it does happen to be carb specific, let us know which carb it has and I'm sure someone here knows how to adjust it.

 

Does carb on there now have an electric choke? Or one with a metal tube going down to the manifold near carb base or the R H exhaust manifold. Some suggestions and questions below.

If you have not messed with the choke, and there is a wire, remove it and with key on/run position, test the wire for power with a test light or DVOM, there should be power.

What is problem? Choke does not close when cold when you step on accelerator to set the choke? Choke stays closed and doesn't open as engine warms up?

 

The choke sticks no matter what i do, so it's currently disconnected. Not an electric choke, so not sure why it is happening.

 

OK, no electric choke. Assuming it is an automatic choke, not manual. A quick test, air cleaner removed, engine off and cold, with one hand hold the carb open to about 1/4 to 1/2 and the choke should be closed. Still holding carb open, take your finger, push the choke plate open all the way. Take finger away and choke plate should spring completely back to closed again. If so, start engine, look at choke plate, it should open A BIT and the engine should be on a fast idle. Leave it run and the choke should begin to open more as the engine warms up, to fully opened after 4 or 5 minutes or sooner.

If it does not open, the HEAT TUBE that goes into the manifold just below the carb or to the R H exhaust manifold is broken off or restricted by rust and scale.

Let us know what you find. EDIT, SORRY, did not catch you saying it is disconnected. All above applies after you RESET the choke bi-metalic spring(black plastic housing) to close the choke cold.