I posted a similar question awhile ago but it was side tracked due to a response that I received. I would like to try and restate the issue I'm having in hopes of more appropriate feedback.

So I go to get a smog check and was told it failed. I asked why and she only told me that the service engine light was not coming on when you put the key to the ON position. Turns out there are actually 3 led's that are not coming on in the same area, the two other led's above the service engine light as I come to find afterwards. So I asked her if they could fix it and she said it would take 2 hours to find the problem. When I looked up at their hourly rate I kindly declined and said I would look into it with my mechanic. She was certain to tell me that if I did get it fixed to drive the truck ~150 miles

 

Having an operational MIL is a mandatory requirement of every OBDII-based emissions testing program in the country. If the MIL doesn't work, it's an automatic failure. Just so you know....

Put the cluster into dealer test mode (google it) and go the "bulb" check. That will test all microprocessor-controlled bulbs in the cluster. This can be used to verify failure or operation after a repair. If it fails, get the cluster repaired or replaced. Forum member and sponsor "Circuit Board Medics" can help you out.

 

I'm sorry, I should have made it clear that I was looking for a DIY type of solution. I would like to get some feedback from people who have actually had this type of a problem and what they did to repair it. I know there are a bunch of companies willing to repair it. I want to do it myself.
Or, does this forum discourage DIY repairs?
Thank you for your response though, I'm sure it would have been a perfect fit for some folks.

 

Yes, you should have.

Not at all, quite the opposite. The problem is that the schematics of the cluster are not in the public domain.

You're probably going to find that you're on the bleeding edge of this particular project, I've never seen this particular issue discussed on any of the Ford forums I frequent.

Best of luck!.

 

Well, I went over the board looking for a problem and I could find nothing. Even put it under my stereo microscope looking for cold solder joints, fatigue cracks etc.. So, I didn't want to do nothing and put it back into the truck. I spent 2 hours re-flowing the entire board by hand, each joint. Slapped it back in and it works now. ???? Why, I don't know, I didn't fix anything that I saw that was wrong. Well I should say that it has worked consistently for the last 6 cycles. I will come back to update this thread if it turns out to not have worked in the long run. My advice to anyone else having this or a similar problem is to re-solder each joint, it may just solve your problem because some solder joints break free inside the joint where you can't even see it. Also re-flow the quad pack(PGA) on the other side of the board. And finally, make sure someone with the appropriate skills does the work if you do not know how to yourself.