Hello gang. I am a new member. My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Before you jump on me tell me google is my best friend or search the forums I think I have done my homework. I am on my last straw.
Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Camming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run. The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it .............yada yada yada yada. . I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since. Can anyone give me some guidance? TIA Gregg

 

Te check those uvch, one bank might be loose.

 

Have you checked the oil level? If it gets too low the HPOP won't function and the injectors won't fire. It's a simple thing that is sometimes overlooked

 

Welcome to FTE. What exactly did you use to check for codes? The 7.3 engine is not OBDII compliant, so no matter what the box on the scanner or the kid behind the counter says, you won't get engine codes from a simple, cheap scanner.

I'll admit the big cam sound does sound like a loose UVCH connector, but that typically doesn't cause a no start. Throwing expensive parts like HPOP, IDM or ECM probably won't fix it either.

I'd suggest you ohm out the UVCH plugs to check those (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html). Also check the wiring to the IPR and ICP sensor for any chaffed wires that may be shorting to ground.

The above items should throw a CEL and set a code. If you've got a proper scanner for these engines and no codes, and the above checks out, then I'd check the fuel pump to make sure it's putting out properly. Also check the wiring below and behind the 42 pin connector on the driver side valve cover. A short to ground in some of those wires can cause a no start with no codes or CEL.

 

What has the fuel level been during these trouble periods?

 

Guys thanks for the responses. The oil level is full. Coincidentally I had just changed it prior to this incident. I double checked it. It has a full tank of fuel. It does have that problem where part of the pickup is broke off or whatever and it runs out of fuel below and indicated 1/4 tank. I used the $90 code reader from Harbor freight. The IPC sensor plug was full of oil and crap. I replaced that sensor and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner. The thing that kinda has me scratching my head is I disconnected the IPC and it did run sort of like on a couple of cylinders until it died. I repeated this a couple of times. I tried it yesterday after installing a new IPR and it tried to run on a couple of cylinders but I didnt want to keep cranking it and where down a new set of batteries. The fuel pump is running (at least I can hear it) the bowl is full and if I open the drain valve and crank it it comes out with a vengeance. I havent started ohming anything out because I don't have a wiring diagram. The big cam sound only happened once. Also relative to the comment on fuel pump, how does one exactly determine it is putting out properly? Also, you made mention of a 42 pin connector, so is there a connector in the middle of the harness between the ECM, IDM and the sensors and injectors? If so, that one has eluded my visual inspections. Thank you

 

Look at the 1st picture in this thread. You can even see where the paint is worn on the drivers side valve cover right below it. That would be where many have found shorting wires.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...57277774982398

 

And here's a troubleshooting guide courtesy of Tugly
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-material.html

 

You guys are the best thank you. I have been driving 200 miles each way every weekend for the past 6 weeks trying to figure this out. Its getting personal between me and this vehicle. If I have to load it on my brother's duramax and gooseneck to get it home I will never hear the end of it plus it will deflate my ego. Thanks again guys.

 

Do you have a chip or tuner installed? If so disconnect it and try again. Hopefully this will be your last trip and you can drive her home

 

To answer your question about how to know if the fuel system is working correctly you'll need a fuel pressure gauge. The fitting in the back of the fuel bowl where you need to plumb it in is #4 ORB. You can get a mechanical gauge just for trouble shooting or do like a lot of us and add a permanent gauge in the cab. With fuel coming out strong when you open the drain you probably have enough fuel pressure. Seems more likely an electrical problem at this point.

 

Good point, after this incident I am going to spend the money for in cab monitoring. Now I know why you guys do it. T thought it was only for the hot rodders up until now. Yes I did have the Power Hungry Hydra unit installed. It was the first thing to be removed during this process. I ran very mild tunes, no tire burning stuff. Now that you guys mention it you have me thinking about the mechanics. This all started after a rough railroad crossing about 1/4 past. Evidence is starting to point to electrical as you all suggest. Thanks again for your help.

 

Why not just open the "water in fuel" drain valve then turn the ignition switch to run and see what sort of fuel flow you have from the drain valve? That should give you a start as to if the fuel pump is working. Sure, it will not tell you what the fuel pressure is but is a simple test at this point.

 

He has done just that and it would seem he has decent pressure. He was asking how he could verify so I gave him the gauge info.

 

Based on the info you guys have given me, I hoping to track down the issue on Friday. The picture of that connector wear on the valve cover gives me hope that I can solve this. Also, can I hotwire that IPR to the battery just to make sure that sucker is functioning? Finally, if I purchase an IDM for this trip, do you guys have any experience with guys like autozone or oreillys not accepting a return if it is not the problem? By the way you guys can thank me for some of this electronic crap, I was part of the engineering design team in the 80's that did the first ECM for Cummins diesels. Our execs were Ford hires and harnesses were always considered vodoo and are the the most imporant part of a design.