Got a 2002 F-350 7.3 with 268,000 miles, less than a month old new fuel filter, just cleaned k&n panel air filter a day a ago, and 4" turbo back Exhaust with no muffler. Raced a 6.7 powerstroke today and mashed the fuel a few times. Now at a low rpm at like 1,000-1,200 rpm just taking off the truck acts like it is missing. Tachometer jumps in the beginnings but once I get up to above like 30mph and get up in the rpm's the Miss goes away. How do I fix this problem besides not try to race a 6.7 again?

 

Welcome to FTE.
First that k&n air filter might be a problem, that miss can be anything, any way you can get it scanned?

 

Tried a spectre 6" cone air filter and a napa 6" cone filter and collapsed both of them inside of 2 months

 

You need to look at riffraff, the 6637 air filter mod is what you need. Stay away from those crappy oil filters.

 

I suppose auto zone could read it tomorrow after work? The check engine light isn't on and doesn't come on when it misses.

 

No, you need compatible scanner a generic code reader wont do.

 

So who won the race - That 6.7 pretty quick ?

 

LOL.

 

Dose it miss or is it just the turbo kicking in above 30mph? Sounds like turbo boost coming in, there for power is on. Need to do some modding to beat that 6.7L. Good intake and the right tuner will make a difference.

 

Intake and a tuner? Won't it take a bit more than that, like some IH injectors?

IH_Powered - Don't feel bad, yours didn't cost over $65,000. Finding a miss is tricky, it's not like everybody can look at a spark plug. The most common cause of a miss is an injector not getting the signal to fire, because the Under Valve Cover Harness is such a common failure point. The Cam Position sensor has been known to cause similar symptoms - but we can't know where to even begin without at least some rudimentary tests, and preferably an OBDII scanner.

There are links in my signature that should prove helpful. OBDII is a good place to start, then click the UVCH link while you're waiting for the brown truck.

Oh... and if you have the desire and the wallet, you can give that 6.7L whut fer - for a lot less money.

 

Just basic's, and I'm not talking about towing, just stop to stop. But yes if over all driving your way off on what it takes. Even then I don't think the 7.3 will preform like the new fords. You can throw lots of weight behind them and they just keep going and EGT's aren't a problem.

 

The 6.7 smoked me without making any black smoke. After that whoopin I am thinking putting on a GTP38R turbo, possibly stage 2 injectors, tuner, and AFE cold air intake and calling it good and just focusing on good workable low end power and torque. Was told today to do a EGR delete as well. No more racing for speed.

 

No egr in our old rigs welcome to pre emission bs. You will need more than that to touch a 6.7 and im not talking just about the engine you also have to consider trans upgrades, (beffier clutch, or complete overhaul if auto to stand the power thats going to be delivered) suspension, drive shafts, etc. The list goes on and so does the $$$$$$$. Set a goal and be realistic these trucks are not ment for racing they are ment for work. If performance is your liking get a cummins, they are stupid cheap to get 500hp out of them.

 

Uh... yeah.... What z31freakify said. The 4R100 transmission is on the ragged edge as it stands, many have left the field on a stretcher with stock power applied to them. The HD4R100 is a great candidate - mainly because of the warranty. The rule of thumb here is if it makes it through the warranty period, it'll keep on making it. If you install a set of ladder bars, you can prevent a lot of driveline damage that will likely occur with Stage IIs and big air. Intake plenums with their antiquated RTV seal like to play a game of Pop Goes the Weasel when the valley has a 38R overlord, and fuel to support it. The flimsy CAC boots and those lower worm-drive boot clamps are trying to crawl out from the valley at the mere sight of a 38R. The MAP sensor has an upper limit - so an OCR is good protection for the sensor. The EBP sensor is old and sooty... you're likely to run into issues here as well. These items are things you factor in up front to prevent bigger expense after the damage is done.

So... all-in, you can handily lathe tires and leave the 6.7L behind in a haze for a lot less money than buying a 6.7L - but don't expect to get there for 5 grand. $10K and a lot of wrenching will get you there properly, but there are those who can get there cheaper if they have a fully-equipped shop at their disposal - as well as the know-how to gut and build transmissions.

If you just chip and do moderate mods, that's gunna be pretty tight - but the transmission still needs some love.

Once you beat your friend with the 6.7L in a race, what are your remaining goals for the truck?

 

I don't think I am gonna worry too much about racing at this point anymore. Just try to focus on good workable low end power and torque. Do some moderate engine work and possibly a John Wood transmission or ATS if it is better. Just wanting to be able to put some good useable power to the ground and hook up to anything I want to and have the power to pull and go from a dead stop.