That's my guess but I'm not sure I've not seen corrosion quite like that.

 

That's definitely a factor, or soon will be. Have you tried cleaning it up? De-Oxit might be just the stuff there.

Can't tell schitt by looking at a capacitor btw, unless you happen to have X-Ray vision ala Superman.

When they leak electrolyte or start bulging of course they are always defective but the converse is not also true. If you go to the trouble of pulling the board go ahead and spend the $2 and replace them. If they last more than ten years they are doing good.

 

I couldn't really tell from the pic if the capacitor in the top was bulging.

Short answer...
If the fuel pumps stay running with the key in the start position, and the engine isn't running, the PCM processor has failed.

 

Timbersteel the cap isn't bulging. So if my pumps run with the comp un-hooked and key in run the comp is bad? Or am I completely mis interpreting this? Tedster9 is this something I can buy locally at a parts store and I consider my self a man of super powers but regrettably not in the tell of x-ray vision.

 

Cap replacement isn't a big deal. Look at it as preventive maintenance, like anything else. Like batteries in your smoke detector. You don't wait for them to bulge or leak, but if they are dead, they get swapped out with fresh cells. Electrolytics are sort of like a rechargeable battery. Sort of. The ones in your truck are at least 26 years old! If you plan on keeping the truck for another 5 or 10 it's cheap insurance.

 

Well I do like cheap insurance so I'll probably pull the trigger on that.

 

Are you saying that you had no spark while cranking with the computer unplugged but the fuel pumps did not run with the key on?

And then when you plugged the computer back in the fuel pump would run all the time the key was on.

Or are you saying you had on spark while cranking and the fuel pump ran all the time the key was on and cranking with the computer unplugged?
If this is the case someone has done some rewiring or you have some shorts and opens in the harness.

 

Subford my apologies my response never posted. I do not have spark with computer unplugged and yes the fuel pumps do keep running this way while key is on as for rewiring yes previous owner did a lot of shady work and left a lot unfinished. Yet supprisingly it did run well prior to this issue.

 

It makes it very hard to help someone when the wiring is not stock.

The fuel system has been rewired to run the fuel pump all the time the key is on running or not.

You have no spark with the computer unplugged so the computer is not the spark problem.

I think you said that you have battery voltage at the Ignition coil + (battery side) wire with the key on but you have no power on the NEG side (ICM side). That is wrong.
That means either the coil Primary winding is open or the ICM is holding the NEG side of the coil to ground.
You need to unplug the ICM and see if power returns to the NEG side of the coil. If it does we have a ICM problem. If not we have a coil problem.

The NEG side of the coil should flash your loading test light while the engine is cranking.
A meter is miss leading so use a test light and not a meter.

 

sorry for not replying on this, got a little busy with family and trying to juggle college and work. I had run a LED light from the PIP to the battery and it flashed while cranking if I remember correctly this means I had a faulty PIP. since that test I had replaced PIP multiple times as well the ICM mounted to the driver side fender, a coil, and a new distributor. I still maintain proper voltage in the coil, PIP, and ICM. I have scoured the truck looking for a bad ground or even a frayed wire. I've had no luck thus far I have even removed the after market stereo thinking that it could have had influence on the issue. if anyone has any thought or crazy ideas I'm more than open to trying.

 

A flashing LED to the battery from the PIP wire while the engine is cranking says the PIP is OK.

I think you have a bad connector at the Ignition coil and it is not making contact to the wire going to the ICM.





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OK on the pip picture I have this white with blue wire that has a small opening in the casing, but it has good continuity at either end of the opening. My dark green with yellow is good all the way through, thought it had been at one time spliced after its connection to the fuel pump relay this has been repaired.

 

Do you have power at the NEG (-) post of the Ignition coil yet with the key in the run position and the engine not running?
If not it will not run until you do.


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OK I checked voltage when key is off the voltage was 11.92 with the key on it was only .92. Does this mean it's in wrong?

 

You need to double check that. The ignition coil should not have have 12 volts on either side with the key off.