1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Gas to Diesel Parts Compatibility?

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  #16  
Old 02-16-2016, 10:55 AM
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I'll have to look into the hutch mod then! I did some reading last night on my phone about people using Bronco tanks in their powerstrokes, so I shouldn't be out of luck with that. I'm hoping I can reuse parts I currently have instead of having to purchase other parts for this mod, but it's not the end of the world if I need new stuff.

I also have the BW 1356 transfer case on my bronco now. The donor F250 is only a 2WD, but I purchased a ZF5 (the 42 version) with a transfer case (the guy didn't want to sell them separately) which I believe is actually the same case as in my Bronco. I suppose I have two to chose from then? I don't know if the diesel one is stronger, or if they are actually the same exact case.

It looks as if I'll need to swap the entire pedal assembly then also. If I can get something modified to work to keep mine in, that would be cool. If not, then it's not a huge deal either since I have both. My Bronco pedals are in better shape though!

Also, will changing the booster while keeping my stock calipers and hoses be okay? Since I'm currently keeping my stock axles, I'll have to keep the same rotors/calipers/lines until I can get the axle swap underway (which may be quite a long time.) I don't plan on doing any towing, or at least any more than I would do with the 302, so I don't know if that will make a difference. If swapping the booster and master cylinder will be a nice upgrade to my brakes, I'll definitely do it.

When it comes to the fuel system. The F250 is a long bed, so the fuel lines will be too long. If I am going to keep those fuel lines, can they be cut and clamped with aftermarket fuel lines (if there are any)?
 

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  #17  
Old 02-16-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
You dont want to mix diesel fuel pumps and gas.

Different style pumps (as far as i know due to lubricity/dirt)
That's exactly why you use the pump that's on the PSD engine that's going in the Bronco. The Bronco probably has a pump in the fuel tank, which would be decommissioned.

The go-pedal is NOT part of the pedal box. The go-pedal will need to be swapped of course (the Bronco probably has an old-style cable), but the pedal BOX, which has ONLY the brake and clutch pedals, should be usable.
 
  #18  
Old 02-16-2016, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by coreylasalle
Correct, I forgot. And i just pulled one out of a truck 3 days ago too.... It is just 3 bolts on the fire wall and 2 plugs on the wire harness.

And I assume the front shaft u-joint for the d44 is smaller then the d50. So you might need a conversion joint using the f250 drive shaft.
none of the driveline parts are interchangeable IIRC.

There are 50-60 part interchanges.

The front drive shaft might....
I cannot recall 100%
 
  #19  
Old 02-16-2016, 12:44 PM
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I'm guessing the engines and trannies are both different lengths, so therefore neither driveshaft would interchange. You're probably looking at custom shafts. Well, the front shaft from the donor might work. The rear shaft, you could have a driveline shop shorten it to the required length.
 
  #20  
Old 02-16-2016, 12:53 PM
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Since the donor truck was 2wd anyhow, I guess it doesn't much matter. You might have to find or make a front shaft. And rear shaft for that matter if the tcase ends up further one way or the other compared to factory bronco location. The 1356 doesn't have a flange, correct? maybe the factory shaft will work and slide right in.
 
  #21  
Old 02-16-2016, 01:45 PM
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I'm pretty sure your bronco T case will bolt up to your new ZF trans, if so I'd do that just so your driveshafts will work, aside from just lengthing-shortening.

Also your gunna want to use whatever master cylinder and brake booster that goes with your axles, so if your keeping the half ton axles, use the bronco booster and MC, when you swap to the 3/4 ton axles, use the MC off the 250. I don't know if the proportioning valve is different but again, I'd use the 1 that goes with the axles you use.

Fuel lines, do the hutch mod on your tank and leave everything on the bronco. Unhook the gas lines at the front of the motor where they go from the steel lines on the frame to the rubber on the motor, I would bet the lines are the same size, gas vs diesel. Then all you have to do is hook the diesel lines from the PSD to the existing gas bronco lines.
 
  #22  
Old 02-16-2016, 02:36 PM
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Thanks for all the really helpful information!

I'll probably call some shops around here to see the cost on driveshaft modification. I know I'll most likely need to shorten the rear shaft, and lengthen the front. I wasn't aware that the diesel BW 1356 T-Case requires a different driveshaft to mount to its' yoke, so I'll reuse my Bronco one if that is the case. I'll keep the other one around for when I swap axles. I might be tempted to sell it too though to fund other parts of this project.... probably should keep it though if it is in fact different for when I upgrade.

I'll look up the hutch mod now while I have a break inbetween classes and I'm stuck on campus waiting around.

It's a relief to hear that I can just swap the gas pedal instead of the whole pedal box. I remember it being such a nightmare for me to get the pedal box out of the bronco years ago when I was changing the clutch pedal bushing. I can't remember the hardest part, but it may actually have been getting the clutch pedal off the pedal box. I'm sure with all the tools and work I've done since then, that wouldn't be too bad of a job but I'm still glad I can leave them alone!
 
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