Sorry. Another "should I buy a 6.0?" post
#1
Sorry. Another "should I buy a 6.0?" post
I'm sorry to do this to you guys as I am aware this is the never ending debate. I have done extensive research, including the 6.0 tech folder in this forum. But a lot of the answers I come across seem more opinionated and circumstantial, so I was hoping understanding my circumstances could get a better opinion maybe? I'm an ASE certified mechanic going on about 11 years, but mostly gas engine. My diesel drivability skills are meh, but I do have a fully update MODIS and r&r isn't a concern. I currently have an access cab tundra that just doesn't have the room I need for my kids. My main reason for wanting a power stroke is more for space and fuel mileage rather than towing and hauling, and I have no desire for performance upgrades. That being said, is buying an 04 6.0 with 155k worth the headache for my situation? Or would it be a headache at this point? It seems like mostly what I've read is the problems arose early in these trucks. The vehicle history I have is pretty generic, but it does show drivability concerns addressed between 45-60k. Regular maintenance records up until about 100k and after that not much history available. I'm torn between this truck and a double cab tundra, same year and mileage but $2k more. I would prefer to have a power stroke, but with an 11 year old, a 2 year old, and wife who wants another baby, I don't need to be in over my head in a money pit. Worth it? Opinions?
#2
#3
Well.. With the 2grand you can fix what issues the 6.0s have.. Just to name a few APR head studs, New gaskets, new oil cooler,Egr delete if your not in a emissions testing state. . Or you can spend the 2 grand and buy a girls truck Just joking but not really ..... The 6.0 is a good motor once its been worked and problems that cause it to fail fixed...
#4
In my opinion you are much better off buying a 2005 up 6.0 because they have the better HPO. Now some of the late 2004 do have them but you would have to look that up on vin if that one has it.
The STC fitting and standpipes and D plugs have updated replacement parts that cure the issues for 2005 up. Once that's done it's a very good engine as long as it's been cared for.
Make sure to look up Oasis report odds are those updates have already been done.
Good Luck with it.
The STC fitting and standpipes and D plugs have updated replacement parts that cure the issues for 2005 up. Once that's done it's a very good engine as long as it's been cared for.
Make sure to look up Oasis report odds are those updates have already been done.
Good Luck with it.
#5
Why 6.0?
I get this question a lot from customers who are new to diesels. Biggest Difference Between gas and diesel engines is diesels have higher longevity and obtain higher fuel mileage for towing/hauling. But Diesel engines initial cost is higher $, diesel fuel is higher $, diesel oil is higher $ and requires twice as much, Repairs and overall maintenance are much higher $. This is not my opinion. These are the facts and I am just wanting everyone to be well informed and educated contributors to our society.
Of all diesel engines on the road today, why the 6.0? Just the fact that there is a prominent question about the reliability and complicated diagnosticity of these engines should be enough for anyone to ask themselves what is my objective and does this engine fit into my goals. If you want to have a smoking, whistling slingshot to impress spectators without jumping into a shinier more expensive toy and you are not afraid of spending $$,$$$ to make it a sound and reliable (Bulletproof) engine then the 6.0 may be the right engine for you.
Bulletproof was a term coined by 6.0 owners to make up for the lack there of. Most engines are already sound and reliable but some are not without a few "minor" modifications such as: EGR Delete, Heads, Head Studs, Head Gaskets, Injectors, Turbo, Glowplugs, Coolant Filter, aluminum air-to-liquid cooler, Oil By-pass Filter, High-pressure oil pump are a few things on the 6.0 list.
I am not against the 6.0s, I'm only against the people who convince other people that they are factory sound and reliable engines and end up costing those people tons of money that they don't have. Not sure what you are looking to spend on your 6.0 but most around here similar to your description are going for $5,000-$7,500. Also as a true American making a political statement, I AM NOT A TOYOTA FAN.
Of all diesel engines on the road today, why the 6.0? Just the fact that there is a prominent question about the reliability and complicated diagnosticity of these engines should be enough for anyone to ask themselves what is my objective and does this engine fit into my goals. If you want to have a smoking, whistling slingshot to impress spectators without jumping into a shinier more expensive toy and you are not afraid of spending $$,$$$ to make it a sound and reliable (Bulletproof) engine then the 6.0 may be the right engine for you.
Bulletproof was a term coined by 6.0 owners to make up for the lack there of. Most engines are already sound and reliable but some are not without a few "minor" modifications such as: EGR Delete, Heads, Head Studs, Head Gaskets, Injectors, Turbo, Glowplugs, Coolant Filter, aluminum air-to-liquid cooler, Oil By-pass Filter, High-pressure oil pump are a few things on the 6.0 list.
I am not against the 6.0s, I'm only against the people who convince other people that they are factory sound and reliable engines and end up costing those people tons of money that they don't have. Not sure what you are looking to spend on your 6.0 but most around here similar to your description are going for $5,000-$7,500. Also as a true American making a political statement, I AM NOT A TOYOTA FAN.
#6
#7
If the items on the OASIS report are acceptable to you and you feel the truck is worth the price or close to it then the next step would be to take it for a 20-30 minute test drive and monitor the items you read about in the tech folder.
ECT & EOT delta
FICM voltages
trans temp
VGT duty cycle
IPR & IPR duty cycle
If ECT & Oil Temp delta is more than 10 degrees when driving @ 10 miles at 65 mph on a engine running at Normal Operating Temp then you have reason to bargain for a new oil cooler. If she shows signs of puking coolant then that could be as simple as a degas cap or can lead to head studs. Either way, know what condition the cooling system is in so you can get a good price and go from there.
I never ever thought I would buy a 6.0L - NEVER. But I did (2006 F-350 in my sig) and I would not hesitate in buying another 6.0L. They have good power, a nice ride and can be found for a decent price since so many folks tend to stay away because of the bad reputation. You can make them very reliable and worthwhile if you take care of & monitor the coolant & electrical systems. Two friends of mine have had theirs for over 12 years. One has done head studs & the EGR delete the other is stock. Both are used to tow trailers, both have over 250K miles and they take care of the maintenance. I would consider that reliable.
A few things I experience when buying mine.
The used car dealer offered a full 3 year Ford warranty or 3 K off the price if I declined the warranty. I declined and put the $ towards the head studs, EGR Delete & oil cooler. I did not realize what bad shape my brakes were in when I bought mine. I assumed with only 56K miles they were good to go. That was a grand I wasn't expecting - my fault for not looking closer. Before buying mine I pretty much decided I was going to do head studs, EGR delete & a new oil cooler since I was planning on adding power and towing a 40' 5th wheel. After these items the dummy plugs, STC fitting, blue FP sring kit and some of the other items mentioned above were not very expensive.
I would do it again in a heartbeat. Good luck with your decision!
ECT & EOT delta
FICM voltages
trans temp
VGT duty cycle
IPR & IPR duty cycle
If ECT & Oil Temp delta is more than 10 degrees when driving @ 10 miles at 65 mph on a engine running at Normal Operating Temp then you have reason to bargain for a new oil cooler. If she shows signs of puking coolant then that could be as simple as a degas cap or can lead to head studs. Either way, know what condition the cooling system is in so you can get a good price and go from there.
I never ever thought I would buy a 6.0L - NEVER. But I did (2006 F-350 in my sig) and I would not hesitate in buying another 6.0L. They have good power, a nice ride and can be found for a decent price since so many folks tend to stay away because of the bad reputation. You can make them very reliable and worthwhile if you take care of & monitor the coolant & electrical systems. Two friends of mine have had theirs for over 12 years. One has done head studs & the EGR delete the other is stock. Both are used to tow trailers, both have over 250K miles and they take care of the maintenance. I would consider that reliable.
A few things I experience when buying mine.
The used car dealer offered a full 3 year Ford warranty or 3 K off the price if I declined the warranty. I declined and put the $ towards the head studs, EGR Delete & oil cooler. I did not realize what bad shape my brakes were in when I bought mine. I assumed with only 56K miles they were good to go. That was a grand I wasn't expecting - my fault for not looking closer. Before buying mine I pretty much decided I was going to do head studs, EGR delete & a new oil cooler since I was planning on adding power and towing a 40' 5th wheel. After these items the dummy plugs, STC fitting, blue FP sring kit and some of the other items mentioned above were not very expensive.
I would do it again in a heartbeat. Good luck with your decision!
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#8
I should have started by saying I'm in California lol. Can't do egr delete because anything cool/fun/helpful is illegal. The truck I'm looking at is 12k at a private lot. You can hardly find a bicycle here under $5k let alone a truck. The history report I can pull up at my shop showed it failed emissions inspection at 146k miles, then passed 2 days later during an ownership transfer. Leads me to think maybe it did have an egr delete was converted back to factory for emissions. Also worries me that it may have had other aftermarket crap on it. I have considered f150, but if I'm going gas engine I'm more likely to get the tundra. Triton motors and virtually any Chrysler products keep my shop afloat. And as far as the American political statement, I can assure you toyotas are far more made in the USA than any Chevy or ford. Chevy and ford are simply assembled in America with mostly global parts. But I do thank you all for your inputs. I'm definitely leaning towards the power stroke
#10
Not sure if you came across these in your research:
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Articles.asp?ID=304
BDP makes an excellent aftermarket EGR Cooler for those that want/need to keep the EGR cooler. If I lived in a state like yours I would have went this route.
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Articles.asp?ID=304
BDP makes an excellent aftermarket EGR Cooler for those that want/need to keep the EGR cooler. If I lived in a state like yours I would have went this route.
#11
I just bought a 2007 F350 DRW LARIAT Powerstroke and the motor had 15k chassis has about 115k. It came with the XDP coolant filtration system and Scan Guage 2. I'm in NY so I have worry about emissions, so I plan on getting a Bullet Proof set up. Anyway, your going to find a lot of good deals on the 6.0l Powerstroke trucks because the market is going to get flooded with them because of the issues they had early on and even in the 05-07 models. There beautiful trucks and the money you save on purchase is invested in building the motor up it's worth it.
#12
Touché 😂😂😂 this is why I'm here.
EGR and oil cooler as well as fuel pressure and voltage gauges were definitely on my to do list for it. But I wasn't planning on studding the heads unless the gasket goes. From my understanding that wasn't necessary as long as i keep it cool and stock. I guess my main concern is whether or not the issues were repetitive. From the research I've done, most of issues arose early on in the engines life. I would imagine by 155k these problems would have already been addressed, and was wondering if I should prepare to deal with them again. It definitely makes me feel better that nobody has mentioned the FICM or turbo failure. Seems like maintining voltage and changing oil prevents those issues well enough
EGR and oil cooler as well as fuel pressure and voltage gauges were definitely on my to do list for it. But I wasn't planning on studding the heads unless the gasket goes. From my understanding that wasn't necessary as long as i keep it cool and stock. I guess my main concern is whether or not the issues were repetitive. From the research I've done, most of issues arose early on in the engines life. I would imagine by 155k these problems would have already been addressed, and was wondering if I should prepare to deal with them again. It definitely makes me feel better that nobody has mentioned the FICM or turbo failure. Seems like maintining voltage and changing oil prevents those issues well enough
#14
I'm a newbie to diesels but a life long Ford fan. I've tried GM's and Dodge and will never own another. I wouldn't even consider a Japanese pickup (no offense) but if you grew up working in steel mills like I did you would know why. My dad retired from Ford, God rest his soul.
In any case I just bought 06 PSD crew, long bed Lariat with 97k and completely stock. I did my home work and knew the risk. With this truck, I'd hoped I could have the time to do the upgrades in my own good time. So far, not turning out that way. Within the first week i had to spring for an Oil Cooler R/R. I also did the EGR delete along with new dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting(thanks for the tip, Rusty). This is a $2500 job with out cost of EGR delete kit. One week later i'm dealing with FICM issues. Just dropped another 425 for a rebuilt FICM with an atlas tune. With that said, i still need to get a upgraded alternator, as well as an IPR coolant filter. And then there is always the "whats next".
You will need to weigh these risks for your self.
Bottom line is this. I have never driven a truck that has the power like this one does and the awesome feeling you get when driving one. All these guys on this site that are so passionate about these trucks and motors know what i'm talking about.
Lastly, if you do your home work you'll know to look for an 05, 06, or 07 for the 6.0.
Good luck and regards,
~john
In any case I just bought 06 PSD crew, long bed Lariat with 97k and completely stock. I did my home work and knew the risk. With this truck, I'd hoped I could have the time to do the upgrades in my own good time. So far, not turning out that way. Within the first week i had to spring for an Oil Cooler R/R. I also did the EGR delete along with new dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting(thanks for the tip, Rusty). This is a $2500 job with out cost of EGR delete kit. One week later i'm dealing with FICM issues. Just dropped another 425 for a rebuilt FICM with an atlas tune. With that said, i still need to get a upgraded alternator, as well as an IPR coolant filter. And then there is always the "whats next".
You will need to weigh these risks for your self.
Bottom line is this. I have never driven a truck that has the power like this one does and the awesome feeling you get when driving one. All these guys on this site that are so passionate about these trucks and motors know what i'm talking about.
Lastly, if you do your home work you'll know to look for an 05, 06, or 07 for the 6.0.
Good luck and regards,
~john
#15
I'm a newbie to diesels but a life long Ford fan. I've tried GM's and Dodge and will never own another. I wouldn't even consider a Japanese pickup (no offense) but if you grew up working in steel mills like I did you would know why. My dad retired from Ford, God rest his soul.