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This is what first came to my mind. Along with heater hoses and that stupid high pressure steering hose that blows out, Starter if it's old (even though it still works a new one spins twice as fast), serpentine belt, visit a seat shop and have them touch up the foam in your seat for a much more comfortable ride, and all the usual maintenance stuff.
aesthetics are definitely going to happen, but want to make sure and get all the mechanical stuff in line.
have already decided to add the HPOP lines to list. should the fuel lines be done at the same time too? how many of them?
RR lists:
Driver Side Fuel Line
Fuel Bowl Feed/Return Line Set
Passenger Side Fuel Line
Maybe I missed it, but what intake to handle the added air flow?
Good call. The factory air box simply won't handle it. The 6637 would work, but unless you like a lot (and I do mean a lot) of turbo noise, you won't be happy with that. The AIS with the fender sleve should work OK. In my opinion, that would be the most quiet. I had an S&B on my 02 for a long time. Then I got a 38r, and it was quite noisy. I put an AIS on it, and it got it to a level I can stand. They have a new S&B out now, and I'm curious if it is any quieter than the AIS, or if it is close. The S&B will move more air, but it could come at a cost (noise).
The AIS is the only intake with a "silencer" - it's the Donaldson filter media that's the silver bullet. S&B breathes better and is louder, but it's not obnoxious.
aesthetics are definitely going to happen, but want to make sure and get all the mechanical stuff in line.
have already decided to add the HPOP lines to list. should the fuel lines be done at the same time too? how many of them?
RR lists:
Driver Side Fuel Line
Fuel Bowl Feed/Return Line Set
Passenger Side Fuel Line
do them all and add the FRx?
I'd just worry about the passenger side fuel line that goes from the bowl to the back of the head. Although I'm still running my factory line, I have loosened up the clamp and added a layer of rubber in there to keep it from wearing through.
The other fuel lines rarely have any issues. The FRX doesn't hurt (unless you get an early version like I did that failed), but I will say I never really noticed a great difference on any of the trucks I installed them on.
should the fuel lines be done at the same time too? how many of them?
RR lists:
Driver Side Fuel Line
Fuel Bowl Feed/Return Line Set
Passenger Side Fuel Line
do them all and add the FRx?
The passngr side line is the one to check while everything is out of the valley.
here's an oldie but goodie for ur reading pleasure. If yours isn't worn you can just protect it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-for-e99s.html
I'd just worry about the passenger side fuel line that goes from the bowl to the back of the head. Although I'm still running my factory line, I have loosened up the clamp and added a layer of rubber in there to keep it from wearing through.
The other fuel lines rarely have any issues. The FRX doesn't hurt (unless you get an early version like I did that failed), but I will say I never really noticed a great difference on any of the trucks I installed them on.
Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
The passngr side line is the one to check while everything is out of the valley.
here's an oldie but goodie for ur reading pleasure. If yours isn't worn you can just protect it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-for-e99s.html
Thanks guys. The list has been modified per your recommendations.
Originally Posted by jhl3
Belt tensioner if you are still running the original. When it goes on its' own time, it can be expensive.
That was done a while back along with the belt. Have had old green for ~11 years and it has never really asked for much.
[QUOTE=empiretc;16013297]really leaning that way. just seems to make sense since you are already in there. ran across your list from your other thread. what made you decide to go with those instead of the ones from RR?
Check my review on the SPX wheel you might think it over. (All the fleet with 7.3, 6.doh's, have the spturboost rebuild kits including my obs great quality and very competitive pricing, oh customer service is by far the best ive seen any question call Kevin good knowledge on turbos)
I am pleased overall with the Dorman uppipes and collector, though it did take a little effort with a die grinder. Turned an okay product into a very good product at a bargain price.
Just plan a little extra time, have a cone grinding wheel handy and air die grinder (pretty cheap and handy, if you don't already have one), and enjoy the savings!
Like IKEA. You have to put it together yourself, but it costs a little less!
Good luck and lots of pics as you choose and do the work!
Your list looks a lot like the one I just did and I think you will be very happy with the results. I have only 2 suggestions though.
1. If you don't have the tool that RR sells in order to remove the HPOP lines with very little effort, you may want to consider it as well.
2. I would pass on the pedestal bolts if I were you. I am sure that the new RR bolts secure the pedastal enough, but I just was not comfortable using them and possibly having to go back into the valley at a later date. As a matter of fact, I think I still have the bolts laying around, so if you really want them, we might be able to work something out.
yeah, i am following your lead based on your thread.
Didn't think there would be that much of a difference in the bolts. I will pass based on your pics and it looks like the SPX kit includes the pedestal o-rings.
Where are you located? If in a cold climate, I'd keep the EBPV.
It really does help warm up the engine and get it to a decent operating temp faster.
I'm coming in late here, so maybe you answered this?
When were your injector orings last replaced?
Rebuilt your fuel bowl, including the Parker sleeves in the fuel lines?
When did you replace your ICP last? IPR?
What air filter do you have?
What size and type exhaust?
Last time you replaced the UVCH? Glow plugs?
Have you done the Hutch mod?
Converted to ELC?
Have a tuner yet? Who do you like?
Do you have a heavy duty transmission, or running at least a JW Valve body?
These are common performance and longevity mods/maintenance that many of us do.
Since it looks like you are stepping up performance, want to be sure everything else is up to a similar level. Otherwise, it's like lifting weights with just one arm.
Where are you located? If in a cold climate, I'd keep the EBPV.
We are in the dead of winter and it is 80* out, lol
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
When were your injector orings last replaced?
Rebuilt your fuel bowl, including the Parker sleeves in the fuel lines?
have never had the valve covers off and the fuel bowl is all orginal with the exception of the drain valve o-rings that have been replaced a couple of time.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
When did you replace your ICP last? IPR?
ICP was done about 1.5 years ago
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
What air filter do you have?
What size and type exhaust?
running the 6637 filter but this will probably change. the exhaust is stock.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Last time you replaced the UVCH? Glow plugs?
never
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Have you done the Hutch mod?
Converted to ELC?
hutch and harpoon were done about 10 years ago and ELC was done when the water pump was replaced ~2 years ago.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Have a tuner yet? Who do you like?
the pcm was sent to Jody ~10 years ago and flashed with the 80e
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Do you have a heavy duty transmission, or running at least a JW Valve body?
the tranny was rebuilt a couple years ago but it is pretty much factory with the valve body upgrades.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
These are common performance and longevity mods/maintenance that many of us do.
Since it looks like you are stepping up performance, want to be sure everything else is up to a similar level. Otherwise, it's like lifting weights with just one arm.
yep, been here a long time and old green has gotten quite a bit done. however, since it was decided to keep it for a few more years, I wanted to get things done to it to assure its reliability (not that is hasn't been).
We are in the dead of winter and it is 80* out, lol
*Jealous*
Originally Posted by empiretc
have never had the valve covers off and the fuel bowl is all orginal with the exception of the drain valve o-rings that have been replaced a couple of time.
UVCH and gaskets, glowplugs (cheap, do it while there, even if you never get to use them LOL) and at least injector orings, for sure. If you're going to be pushing on her with these upgrades, you sure don't want misfiring, oil bypassing injectors for weak HPOP or unbalanced performance, etc.
As you say, you've been here a while, probably read the horror stories
Originally Posted by empiretc
running the 6637 filter but this will probably change. the exhaust is stock.
Breathe in, breathe out. You are going to be pushing more air in, you should balance it with more air out.
Originally Posted by empiretc
the pcm was sent to Jody ~10 years ago and flashed with the 80e
You *may* wish to give Jody a call after you have your list of mods ready to discuss the tune with him. He may or may not recommend changes to the tune to better take advantage of your new gear
Originally Posted by empiretc
yep, been here a long time and old green has gotten quite a bit done. however, since it was decided to keep it for a few more years, I wanted to get things done to it to assure its reliability (not that is hasn't been).
Smart move. If you want her to last, especially with better performance, gotta do it right
Might want to consider a transmission flush, since it sounds like it's been a while since you're done it.
Ever service your rear diff? I'm going to be doing my soon. More performance also means more stress...and she's not getting any younger, LOL.
Have you been monitoring anything with OBD readers? Might be time to do so- before you start changing any parts. Find any weak points or problems first, so you don't have to go on a wild goose chase later with all the new stuff
02-05-2016, 11:19 AM
