I want a 2015 F150 but it's a couple thousand out of my price range. The model I want is the Supercrew XLT 4x4 with either the 2.7 or the 3.5. What I am seeing currently is nice ford rebates that total around 5K and some dealer discounts that also total around 5K. The models I'm looking at after discounts are priced 35-37K. My questions are as follows.


1) Will the Ford rebates get even bigger in the next few months to push out left over inventory?


2) Will dealers cut even more to move the trucks in a couple months or will they just hold where they are until they are all sold?


It might be asking for to much but I need to be out the door for 35K for the above model.

 

2015 Rebates are about as good as they will get. 2016 rebates will be slow to build and probably not be good until late summer or fall. The F150 is selling quite well. If you go to the Ford website, go to the F150 page, look at the bottom and request a brochure. They sent me a $1000 coupon when I did that. Took several weeks though and 2015 inventory is fading fast.

You might be able to play the dealer for a little more, especially as the end of the month approaches as January is typically a slow sales month.

Truck Month comes in March and that always seems to bring some added bonuses from Ford, but 2015 inventory will be almost non existent by then.

 

Generally no and no.

Ford rebates are unlikely to go much higher as they are pretty near peaks. Dealers generally will discount as much any day of the year (I mean I do, I suppose others don't, but I think it's fair to say most will). The exception will be if there is a really old leftover, then they might push ad money towards it. The problem is, that leftover will never be the best selling truck. You may be able to squeeze a few more hundred, but thousands will never happen without it being padded somewhere on the back end. The '16s of course had a price increase, so if you found the truck you want, you won't get it much cheaper by waiting IMO.

 

Keep in mind the XLT rebates are higher than those of the Lariats by about $2,000. I did an extensive search of the 2015's and could not find what I wanted so I ordered a 2016 with exactly what I want. In California there are 2015 2.7's on the dealer lot but I wanted the 3.5 eco-boost with the 36 gallon tank and I could not find one in the entire state set up how I wanted it. Even with the 2016 the dealer is giving me a better price than a 2015 Lariat with items I did not want.
If you are going to pull the trigger on a 2015 better do it now.
Good luck!!!!

 

Thanks guys. I may have to wait for 2016 and save up some more money. I don't mind the price increase for 2016 model but need to increase my savings.

 

If you're not in a rush, I strongly recommend doing a factory order and building a relationship with a local salesman. They can help you put the order in towards the end of the order cycle, and when the truck comes in you get the hopefully improved rebates. Ordering also lets you get the options you want, and not spend money getting options you didn't really care for. You can also generally get as good of a deal on a factory order from the dealership as though it were on the lot. Any "buy now!" differences in real value can generally only be a few bucks difference, so why not be patient and get what you actually wanted?

 

I guess I always figured you lost leverage and would not make good deals ordering. The rebates are the rebates so no difference there. They either exist at the time you take delivery or they do not. I'm not in a hurry. I recently purchased a class a motorhome and the newer lighter F150 truck is now on my radar to be used as a towed vehicle and also my daily driver. The 4x4 is required for this. I'll sit down with a dealer and price out a 2016 build and see where the numbers end up. I must admit getting the options I want and only those would be nice. If I was to build a truck on the Ford website is there a WAG to figure what discounts I could expect from the dealer on that price before any rebates?

 

There is "some" leverage with "buy it today" when a dealership is a car or two away from a unit bonus... but it's a few hundred bucks, and you're settling for something less than perfect. We won't lose money on an F150, so no matter how good the deal, you are paying for any extra options that weren't on your list. Additionally the rebates can improve. Say you buy a truck doing some extra good sale, you lock in the rebates (or coupons you may have) at the time of the sale. If the deal from Ford gets better by the time your truck comes in then you can opt for the new ones, if it has gotten worse, or coupons expire then you can keep the original deal. So ordering gets you the least expensive truck that fills your needs and you can agree to the current deal, and it might end up getting better! It just requires patience, and trade values can vary over a few months and use/damage.

If you build the truck on TrueCar or other sites you can get an idea what invoice cost is WITHOUT giving out personal information (and having every local dealership calling and emailing you). I think of everything as an offset from invoice. I personally would not have a problem paying invoice minus rebates, but there is a few hundred bucks in profit you can always squeeze for if it really matters that much to you. As I've said before, I generally ask for $100 over invoice right off the bat and most of my customers are good with it since I'm upfront with them and don't play games. Depending on what state you live in there can be other shenanigans as well of course.

 

Thanks Frantz. Really informative. I'm not concerned with $500 bucks either way so happy with invoice pricing as long as I'm not leaving big wads of cash on the table I should be negotiating for. I could time the order when better rebates might happen later in the year. Wish you were a bit closer so I could buy from you. Maybe an RV trip to your area could work. Get the base plate installed to tow on arrival and away we go.

 

So long as you buy a Ford I'm happy, every unit helps the company and in the long run it helps me (both as a salesperson, and a consumer myself). Hence I like to help get the best info I can out there for folks to make it easy. I don't want you to accidentally get a Nissan or something because some newbie doesn't know enough to get you in the right truck!

 

My next truck will be a Ford. I'm leaving the Tundra behind. I bought a 2010 Tundra new with the 5.7. It's been a good truck but I really like what I see Ford doing with the new F150. I have been converted. Thanks again for the help. I'm going to order one a little later in the year when I can take advantage of some rebates on a 2016. It will give me a little more time to save some money. I messed around with both True Car and Edmunds today to get an idea of what invoice would be for what I wanted. Right now I'm looking at going with the XLT Supercrew short bed, 3.5 Eco, 302 group, spray in bedliner, with the buckets that have the shifter in the console. Also want a tow package with built in brake controller. That pretty much meets my wants. I think that put me around 43.6K invoice minus any rebates. Let me know if I did that correctly. When I selected trailer tow package which has a $895.00 MSRP option it showed $0 in the column with all the options added in. It was the same whether I chose the 2.7 or 3.5 Eco engine. Its as if it was included with one of those engines so it did not add anything to the price. This was on the Edmunds build site.

 

Invoice would be $45636.07 currently before rebates, sticker $51140. Ford does increase price a little bit throughout the year, but once you're ready to put the order in the dealer can use the C09 option to lock in the invoice cost (doesn't affect rebates). The price you showed looks like it included Max tow, but it didn't add the cost of the motor, that would put you right about there. You need the Max Tow (53C) to get the factory brake controller. The regular tow package (53A) does not include it. What may be happening when you're building the truck is you select the max tow with brake controller first, then if you see "trailer tow package" it shows $0, because you are already getting all of that in the more expensive pack.

 

If you want the shifter in the console on an XLT, you have to order it with the sport appearance package too.

 

I don't have much to add except I fully endorse custom ordering over settling for whatever is on the lot.

Josh

 

Well I did not know that. There is an option you can check for called 40 40 console or something along those lines that cost $295. I have also seen this on some of the window stickers but did not pay close enough attention to see if they said sport appearance package. Little tricky selecting these options.




edit. Just checked some local dealer window stickers online and found several that have the 40 console 40 option for $295 that were ordered with the chrome appearance package. I think that gets you the bucket seats with center console shifter. If not what does it get you??