I *think* that the parking lights run directly off of the dashboard switch. Don't think there's a parking light relay but I don't know that for sure.

 

I will have a look. Wiring the system in will take a bit of time.

 

Today I found the bad bearing! It was on the passenger side. Inner bearing was completely worn out and looked like it was grinding rocks. I am a little worried about the spindle as it looks like a bearing has seized on that side and spun. It was galled and I could feel a slight lip. The seal surface wasn't very pretty either. I was in a hurry so I didn't take photos but if it fails again I will buy a spindle.

 

There are no relays for any of the lights on the truck. And to boot, the headlight switch is under-engineered for the currents it carries. If you switch to LEDs, and use electronic flashers rather than resistors, you'll reduce the load on the parking light contacts of the switch.

Installing aftermarket electrical equipment, you're much better off with the EVTM than a search engine that spies on you, and returns results from a bunch of other owners who most likely don't have the EVTM either. Only my experience.

 

OK load reduction relays it is. Thank you for clearing that up

 

Before I left to work this morning I had a bit of time so I took the truck for a drive around the neighborhood. The truck needs an alignment before I can comment on the new tie rods. I can say the bearing noise is gone👍
The clutch feels good the engagement is predictable and the pedal is firm, how ever, there is a raspy noise that goes away with light pedal pressure. Throw out bearing... me thinks. Why? How to fix?

It seems the turbo was not wanting to spool either so I will have to check into that. I am wondering if the 1.15ar exhaust housing is too much and I need to get the drive pressure up a bit to spool the 66mm compressor. I will have a peek in the inlet and make sure I didn't mess up. Can I cut a piece of 10 gauge stainless as a restrictive plate for the turbine flange? Aka getto AR adjuster....

 

I went and looked at a cab the other day. It had dents a plenty and a little rust. Didnt appear to be major, anyhow my concern is that the front fender mount is bent in. Not sure how hard it is to fix that but it would suck to make it pretty wit new paint and all, then have issues lining up the doors or fender.

Need to find me a mare!

 

I have had a bearing noise free truck for a few weeks now. Gotta say I hear manybother things that need attention.

How loose should a steering box be? Should I hear a slight click when twisting the input shaft?

And I have an oil leak. 😕 it has been dry but now I see it is leaking somewhere up in the valley. It could be fuel from the vacuum switch that is dripping but it doesn't smell like fuel just oil.

The noise from the through out bearing has been blanketed by the down pipe rubbing on the transmission.

I have to move my tail pipe away from the rear tank. How much room should I make?

I have cut gaskets for my up pipes that I bellowed but they don't last. Will the gaskets Clay sells work with the stock collector?

Thanks eh 😊

 

The truck is not driven every day. But I have driven about 300kms egt was way high. A pressure test showed some leaks on the intake side. I fixed all those and the temp were still high so I put a leaf blower up the tail pipe. Man the leaks were out of this world!

I thought no problem my turbo is easy to remove now I'll just take it all apart lossen the up pipes replace the gaskets with donuts cut in half and put it back together. What a pita!

I have taken the stock turbo out many times but today was not my day. The down pipe is not lining up so I will be taking the exhaust apart to see if I can get it to fit nicely. Then the spider then a pressure test.

Hopeful that it works out and I see a lot more boost and a lot less egt!

 

Good luck man!! I am scared to do a pressure test on my exhaust side.... I know it's going to be bad.

 

Don't be scared. The test is easy.

Worked some more on it last night and still no luck. I think the up pipes will have to come out again.

Truck is in time out. Maybe I will put the laying hens to roost in it. 😧

 

I know it's easy... I don't want to know the result haha!!

 

New gaskets hold pressure. Now just have to clean the ebps tube. It is currently plugged. I tested it while the exhaust was pressurized and no air flow. Not sure what the sensor tells the computer but I have heard it should work.

Now to the good stuff.

When I turned the key to start it the gauges did the normal recalibration thing and did not recover. Fuel gauge went to empty oil pressure went to bottom and temp gauge maxes out.

The truck does run and I look forward to road testing bit need to fix the dash now.

 

Just curious. If my alternator failed or had faulty wiring will my gauges act crazy? I ask because the voltage gauge is not working either..

 

Grabbed a volt meter on my way to moving the truck and trailer. 12.56volts key off. 12.45 engine running. So alternator doesn't seem to be working however I do not have the battery light on while the engine is running and it is on key on engine off.

If I disconnect the sensor's for the oil pressure and coolant temp sensor the gauges do not go to max rather to zero.

Now the question is wiring or alternator?