1997 f250 7 lug max towing capacity
#1
1997 f250 7 lug max towing capacity
Help!!!!!! I need to know the exact max towing capacity for my 1997 f250 ld 7 lug extend cab with triton 5.4 v8. My wife and I are looking at buying a 2003 sportsmen 30 foot 5th wheel with 2 slide outs and I need to know will my truck pull it. Gross trailer weight is about 8,000 lbs
#2
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#5
You may need air bags in order to pull it safely for long distances, but I would count on about 2000 lbs for the pin weight. As Scott said above, ensure your tires are E rated and in good shape.
I can tell you this, the truck will not be happy with you on hills and you should keep an eye on the transmission temperatures and how it is running when pulling up a grade.
What is a "heavy rear end"? Is that 4.10, 4.30, 3.73? That will certainly make a difference in regards to how well you get up and go when you press on the skinny pedal. The top end will not change much because you won't be going 75 MPH down the interstate anyway in that setup.
I can tell you this, the truck will not be happy with you on hills and you should keep an eye on the transmission temperatures and how it is running when pulling up a grade.
What is a "heavy rear end"? Is that 4.10, 4.30, 3.73? That will certainly make a difference in regards to how well you get up and go when you press on the skinny pedal. The top end will not change much because you won't be going 75 MPH down the interstate anyway in that setup.
#6
You mention the 5th weighing about 8k#, is that from the weight sticker? Do you know the GVWR which should also be on the sticker?
As Sous suggests, expect a pin weight of at least 2000#, if the 8000# number is the 5th dry (empty) weight then expect to add 1000# of "stuff" which would give you a pin around 2250# (25%).
Your truck should have a weight sticker on the driver's door jamb listing Front/Rear GAWR. A visit to the CAT Scale will let you know how much more weight you can add before maxing the rear axle. I would "guess" you would be ok on weights but wouldn't back that up with real $$. Hit the scale and you will KNOW.
The CAT Scale is your friend.
As Sous suggests, expect a pin weight of at least 2000#, if the 8000# number is the 5th dry (empty) weight then expect to add 1000# of "stuff" which would give you a pin around 2250# (25%).
Your truck should have a weight sticker on the driver's door jamb listing Front/Rear GAWR. A visit to the CAT Scale will let you know how much more weight you can add before maxing the rear axle. I would "guess" you would be ok on weights but wouldn't back that up with real $$. Hit the scale and you will KNOW.
The CAT Scale is your friend.
#7
Will it pull it?
Yes.
Are you going to like it?
Prolly not. That poor 2 valve 5.4 will be screaming.
Imo the better bet would be a travel trailer vs a fifth well on a 150.
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#8
Having done over 10,000 miles with a 32 foot fiver weighing just over 10,000 lbs and a dang near stock FE390, I think you'll be fine. But like everyone said, first verify your truck's drive train and payload capability. Then, (and many people over look this) go through your truck from bumper to bumper with a fine tooth comb...it is 19 years old after all.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.
#9
Having done over 10,000 miles with a 32 foot fiver weighing just over 10,000 lbs and a dang near stock FE390, I think you'll be fine. But like everyone said, first verify your truck's drive train and payload capability. Then, (and many people over look this) go through your truck from bumper to bumper with a fine tooth comb...it is 19 years old after all.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.
#10
With that much camper and your engine, you will be spinning 3500 to 4000 rpm to keep it at 50-55 mph on the hills. Add in a few curves where you can't get a run and you'll be stuck doing 40 until the road levels off. I think a lot of guys on these types of forums tend to recommend way more power and payload than is necessary, but even I will say you are going to test your truck and find any weakness with that much camper. Just expect to really take your time.
As for air bags, etc...I've not seen the need for the pin weight that you'll likely have. I guess it's nice to be perfectly level but if you have good springs then your headlights won't be aimed at the sky. I'd wait and see how it rides and tows before I spent money on aftermarket stuff that may end up being more of a distraction.
As for air bags, etc...I've not seen the need for the pin weight that you'll likely have. I guess it's nice to be perfectly level but if you have good springs then your headlights won't be aimed at the sky. I'd wait and see how it rides and tows before I spent money on aftermarket stuff that may end up being more of a distraction.
#11
With that much camper and your engine, you will be spinning 3500 to 4000 rpm to keep it at 50-55 mph on the hills. Add in a few curves where you can't get a run and you'll be stuck doing 40 until the road levels off.
As for air bags, etc...I've not seen the need for the pin weight that you'll likely have. I guess it's nice to be perfectly level but if you have good springs then your headlights won't be aimed at the sky. I'd wait and see how it rides and tows before I spent money on aftermarket stuff that may end up being more of a distraction.
As for air bags, etc...I've not seen the need for the pin weight that you'll likely have. I guess it's nice to be perfectly level but if you have good springs then your headlights won't be aimed at the sky. I'd wait and see how it rides and tows before I spent money on aftermarket stuff that may end up being more of a distraction.
#12
I'm normally not a weight police person but I grew up on the farm pulling oversize and big rigs since I was 12.
If you've never pulled a fifth wheel before or a trailer, you are going to be seriously scared with that kind of trailer for your truck. I really strongly suggest you look at a travel trailer first. There's way more options out there for lower cost than a 5ver and you can start out with your current truck.
List of minimums to make your current truck work if you so decide.
Tekonsha prodigy inertia brake controller
Load range e tires on all four wheels in good shape properly inflated
Solid brakes and suspension components this may mean new shocks and other worn items.
Firestone ride rite air bags (this only helps to bring weight transfer back to the front end)
Service of all fluids
BTW welcome to FTE!
#13
Ok, you typed too fast lol...I added a comment above about this much camper putting your truck to the test.
If you know what 2000 lbs looks like in your truck then maybe you do want added support. I'd still hold my money until I tested the whole rig with the kind of driving you plan to do. That's a hefty camper to move at highway speed.
If you know what 2000 lbs looks like in your truck then maybe you do want added support. I'd still hold my money until I tested the whole rig with the kind of driving you plan to do. That's a hefty camper to move at highway speed.
#14
That's a REAL long ways from the 9000 lbs loaded weight you mentioned earlier especially when you factor in all the extra stuff your truck will need to have too. You may be as much as 6000 lbs past your rating.
I'm normally not a weight police person but I grew up on the farm pulling oversize and big rigs since I was 12.
If you've never pulled a fifth wheel before or a trailer, you are going to be seriously scared with that kind of trailer for your truck. I really strongly suggest you look at a travel trailer first. There's way more options out there for lower cost than a 5ver and you can start out with your current truck.
I'm normally not a weight police person but I grew up on the farm pulling oversize and big rigs since I was 12.
If you've never pulled a fifth wheel before or a trailer, you are going to be seriously scared with that kind of trailer for your truck. I really strongly suggest you look at a travel trailer first. There's way more options out there for lower cost than a 5ver and you can start out with your current truck.
#15
Having done over 10,000 miles with a 32 foot fiver weighing just over 10,000 lbs and a dang near stock FE390, I think you'll be fine. But like everyone said, first verify your truck's drive train and payload capability. Then, (and many people over look this) go through your truck from bumper to bumper with a fine tooth comb...it is 19 years old after all.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.
Your engine will do the work if you remember you're pulling a vacation trailer and not a pursuit vehicle. Take your time and take it easy. When climbing steep hills it's okay to get over to the slow lane and pull it at 55.
If this is your first fiver then use this as the chance to see if you even like it. Then think about upgrading to a different truck. The only reason we got a trailer is because I have other uses for my truck. Otherwise we would have gotten a Class C and a small car to pull behind it. Sight seeing with a full size pickup can be a pain and many times a smaller car would have made sight seeing easier.