Please begging someone helppppppp
#1
01-11-2016, 11:17 AM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please begging someone helppppppp
OK I have a 99 expedition 5.4L with an E4OD/4r100 tranny. The tranny is stuck in 3rd if it's in drive, I can manually shift 1,2, then drive. It won't up shift or down in drive. Also the OD off light flashes. I get codes for shift solenoids A an B, range sensor and the electronic pressure control solenoid. Now I've changed all of these. Range sensor brand new and the rest was used, but even if the used parts were bad it would be a different gear I'm stuck in very unlike they would b bad in the same gear. I checked the plug to the shift solenoid pack and it looked fine. Ford said my truck doesn't have a tranny control module so that's eliminated. What else could it be? What would cause all these issues and codes at the same time? Please can someone please help me.
#2
01-11-2016, 11:49 AM
#4
01-11-2016, 12:01 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So instead of helping you post old post I've put up. Obviously if I'm posting again then I'm having more or new problems. One of them was from awhile ago and I did what was suggested and am now having worse issues. No one commented when I posted the last one and since have replaced a bunch of parts with nothing fixing my problem. So unless your gonna actually help I really don't have time for this. Which one of them was about a freaking Mazda.
#5
01-11-2016, 12:33 PM
So instead of helping you post old post I've put up. Obviously if I'm posting again then I'm having more or new problems. One of them was from awhile ago and I did what was suggested and am now having worse issues. No one commented when I posted the last one and since have replaced a bunch of parts with nothing fixing my problem. So unless your gonna actually help I really don't have time for this. Which one of them was about a freaking Mazda.
#6
01-11-2016, 12:43 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My comment was to Pdqford, I just read through Skaubers link and I'm on my way out the door right now to check the fuse. When I pulled up my fuse box schematic it also lists slot 304 as the relay that goes along with fuse #24. I'm hoping one is bad, now I've never had to try but do you know anyway to check a relay?
#7
01-11-2016, 12:52 PM
So instead of helping you post old post I've put up. Obviously if I'm posting again then I'm having more or new problems. One of them was from awhile ago and I did what was suggested and am now having worse issues. No one commented when I posted the last one and since have replaced a bunch of parts with nothing fixing my problem. So unless your gonna actually help I really don't have time for this. Which one of them was about a freaking Mazda.
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual, not the crappy Haynes/Chiltons ones but the proper one from Ford? I would bet on "no" as you've most likely not diagnosed the issue and have just been throwing money and parts at the problem, hoping that something will make it go away.
Also, I would like to point out that the E4OD/4R100 shares many parts such as shift solenoids with its siblings in the Ranger's 4R55E, which is also used on its sibling, the Mazda B-4000.
How I know this: I have absolutely EVERY single parts catalog for every single Mazda vehicle made since 1983. Ask me about how to make a Q4A-EL work with an Apex'i PowerFC. Mind you, very little is known about the Q4A-EL outside of Mazda Corporate or JATCO because I have yet to finish translating the Eunos Cosmo's service manual. And this is on a car that was exclusive to Japan and twice as rare as a Delorean.
Bit of advice: when you're stuck on something, ask nicely for help. There's quite a few good people here like PDQFord and Alloro whom are well-versed with these trucks and are glad to offer assistance when asked nicely. Phrases like "Could you please" "I am having difficulty with (fill in the blank)" and "thank you for trying to help" go a long way.
Also, people have lives outside of the forum. Right now, I should be translating the Eunos Cosmo's wiring diagram to help a friend who just received his Cosmo last night. Long story made short, his CCS CRT Screen is 'rolling'. As I'm unfamiliar with what's inside a CRT TV, I referred him to a friend who has rebuilt one from the 50s, an electronics and logic genius by the name of Aaron Cake.
Had this been the RX7club where I am on staff, this would have netted you a 3-day ban for being rude, demanding and in all likelihood, not attempting to find answers for yourself with the handy "search" feature.
Okay, soapbox rant over.
As I said before, I'm feeling generous today so I'll be nice and offer you a copy of my own service manual for all 1997 Ford Trucks. It might not be EXACTLY the same about wire colors, but the same logic applies as it is the same Transmission and Engine.
Trending Topics
#8
01-11-2016, 02:19 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since I'm reasonably familiar with both systems, I'll be generous and ask you a simple question:
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual, not the crappy Haynes/Chiltons ones but the proper one from Ford? I would bet on "no" as you've most likely not diagnosed the issue and have just been throwing money and parts at the problem, hoping that something will make it go away.
Also, I would like to point out that the E4OD/4R100 shares many parts such as shift solenoids with its siblings in the Ranger's 4R55E, which is also used on its sibling, the Mazda B-4000.
How I know this: I have absolutely EVERY single parts catalog for every single Mazda vehicle made since 1983. Ask me about how to make a Q4A-EL work with an Apex'i PowerFC. Mind you, very little is known about the Q4A-EL outside of Mazda Corporate or JATCO because I have yet to finish translating the Eunos Cosmo's service manual. And this is on a car that was exclusive to Japan and twice as rare as a Delorean.
Bit of advice: when you're stuck on something, ask nicely for help. There's quite a few good people here like PDQFord and Alloro whom are well-versed with these trucks and are glad to offer assistance when asked nicely. Phrases like "Could you please" "I am having difficulty with (fill in the blank)" and "thank you for trying to help" go a long way.
Also, people have lives outside of the forum. Right now, I should be translating the Eunos Cosmo's wiring diagram to help a friend who just received his Cosmo last night. Long story made short, his CCS CRT Screen is 'rolling'. As I'm unfamiliar with what's inside a CRT TV, I referred him to a friend who has rebuilt one from the 50s, an electronics and logic genius by the name of Aaron Cake.
Had this been the RX7club where I am on staff, this would have netted you a 3-day ban for being rude, demanding and in all likelihood, not attempting to find answers for yourself with the handy "search" feature.
Okay, soapbox rant over.
As I said before, I'm feeling generous today so I'll be nice and offer you a copy of my own service manual for all 1997 Ford Trucks. It might not be EXACTLY the same about wire colors, but the same logic applies as it is the same Transmission and Engine.
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual, not the crappy Haynes/Chiltons ones but the proper one from Ford? I would bet on "no" as you've most likely not diagnosed the issue and have just been throwing money and parts at the problem, hoping that something will make it go away.
Also, I would like to point out that the E4OD/4R100 shares many parts such as shift solenoids with its siblings in the Ranger's 4R55E, which is also used on its sibling, the Mazda B-4000.
How I know this: I have absolutely EVERY single parts catalog for every single Mazda vehicle made since 1983. Ask me about how to make a Q4A-EL work with an Apex'i PowerFC. Mind you, very little is known about the Q4A-EL outside of Mazda Corporate or JATCO because I have yet to finish translating the Eunos Cosmo's service manual. And this is on a car that was exclusive to Japan and twice as rare as a Delorean.
Bit of advice: when you're stuck on something, ask nicely for help. There's quite a few good people here like PDQFord and Alloro whom are well-versed with these trucks and are glad to offer assistance when asked nicely. Phrases like "Could you please" "I am having difficulty with (fill in the blank)" and "thank you for trying to help" go a long way.
Also, people have lives outside of the forum. Right now, I should be translating the Eunos Cosmo's wiring diagram to help a friend who just received his Cosmo last night. Long story made short, his CCS CRT Screen is 'rolling'. As I'm unfamiliar with what's inside a CRT TV, I referred him to a friend who has rebuilt one from the 50s, an electronics and logic genius by the name of Aaron Cake.
Had this been the RX7club where I am on staff, this would have netted you a 3-day ban for being rude, demanding and in all likelihood, not attempting to find answers for yourself with the handy "search" feature.
Okay, soapbox rant over.
As I said before, I'm feeling generous today so I'll be nice and offer you a copy of my own service manual for all 1997 Ford Trucks. It might not be EXACTLY the same about wire colors, but the same logic applies as it is the same Transmission and Engine.
#10
01-11-2016, 05:16 PM
your issue I came across your other urgent posts and figured they would provide more background for when the tranny experts arrive.
#11
01-11-2016, 06:00 PM
No worries, I'm no stranger to an automotive crisis. There's an inside joke about Rotaries and what their frame codes mean:
FB(79-85): Financial Burden
FC(86-91): Financial Crisis
FD(92-02): Financial Disaster
FE(03-11): Financially Empty
It looks like Ford changed things around on the fuse box for 1999, it is a bit different than my 1997 one but the same logic should apply. Please keep this in mind
Testing a relay is simple. For clarity, I will be using a Bosch-type 5-pin for this. These are the larger relays inside the fuse box as displayed here:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/do...ERMINAL_ID.png
With your multimeter set to Ohms (200 ohm range is what I use), put one probe on Pin 30 and the other on Pin 87a (center one)The meter will read ~0.7 ohms to show a connection between the two. This is a Continuity Test. Repeat the test between 30 and 87, it will show infinite ohms (no continuity).
Using a pair of jumper wires (16awg is fine), connect pin 85 to battery positive and 86 to battery negative. You'll hear the relay click, this is Pin 30 connecting to Pin 87. A continuity test will show this, and show no continuity between 30 and 87a. For things like this, I built a bench power supply from a long obsolete computer's power supply. Also, I should mention that the pin 85/86 polarity doesn't matter, it just needs positive on one side and negative on the other to energize the coil. When you disconnect one of the jumper wires, you'll hear the relay click again. This is it switching back to 30-87a again from the coil de-energizing.
To make tests like this easier and less likely to accidentally short circuit the battery, I suggest putting a 1/4" Female Quick Disconnect terminal on one end the jumper wire and an alligator clip on the other.
The smaller relays work the same, they just use different terminal numbers sometimes. Here's a picture to spell it out:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/do...icro_relay.png
Solenoids can be tested the same way, they work exactly the same. Only difference is that the ones in the transmission switch fluids, not electric circuits. Same principles, the wires go to the coil (85/86) and it the rest is like an On/Off switch (2 port) or A/B switch (3 port)
9 times out of 10, the Ground signal comes from the ECU/PCM and power is key-switched. The injectors & ignition coils work that way too. But if the PCM doesn't have a good solid ground, things get screwy and can jump around. But amongst everything, there is always a common denominator that ties all the symptoms together and it's usually the ground. Based on how the symptoms have jumped around, I'd suspect your PCM ground is in poor shape. Easy way to tell is by color. If the ring terminal for the ground is CYAN instead of shiny silver, replace it with a new one. Be sure to clean the sheetmetal around the bolt hole with sandpaper or a dremel with sanding drum untill you see bare shiny metal. Chances are that the bolt holding it to the body is covered or comprised of entirely rust too, so toss it in favor of a Stainless Steel one (M6x1.0 thread pitch if memory serves) Some Dielectric Grease (I use Harbor Freight's "Super Lube") on the terminal before you bolt it down will keep the corrosion off for the next decade.
"Copper Exposed is copper that corrodes"
On the 1997/1998 models, the PCM Ground is G101 (close to starter relay/solenoid on firewall) and the Trans Range Sensor's ground is G102 (next to Battery). G102 is shared with the underhood light and rear wiper as well. Doing all of this might not be the silver bullet you seek, but it does mean that anything tied to the PCM's ability to provide a ground signal to will not be the issue for an extremely long time.
Give me a minute to figure out how to send the FSM to you.
FB(79-85): Financial Burden
FC(86-91): Financial Crisis
FD(92-02): Financial Disaster
FE(03-11): Financially Empty
It looks like Ford changed things around on the fuse box for 1999, it is a bit different than my 1997 one but the same logic should apply. Please keep this in mind
Testing a relay is simple. For clarity, I will be using a Bosch-type 5-pin for this. These are the larger relays inside the fuse box as displayed here:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/do...ERMINAL_ID.png
With your multimeter set to Ohms (200 ohm range is what I use), put one probe on Pin 30 and the other on Pin 87a (center one)The meter will read ~0.7 ohms to show a connection between the two. This is a Continuity Test. Repeat the test between 30 and 87, it will show infinite ohms (no continuity).
Using a pair of jumper wires (16awg is fine), connect pin 85 to battery positive and 86 to battery negative. You'll hear the relay click, this is Pin 30 connecting to Pin 87. A continuity test will show this, and show no continuity between 30 and 87a. For things like this, I built a bench power supply from a long obsolete computer's power supply. Also, I should mention that the pin 85/86 polarity doesn't matter, it just needs positive on one side and negative on the other to energize the coil. When you disconnect one of the jumper wires, you'll hear the relay click again. This is it switching back to 30-87a again from the coil de-energizing.
To make tests like this easier and less likely to accidentally short circuit the battery, I suggest putting a 1/4" Female Quick Disconnect terminal on one end the jumper wire and an alligator clip on the other.
The smaller relays work the same, they just use different terminal numbers sometimes. Here's a picture to spell it out:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/do...icro_relay.png
Solenoids can be tested the same way, they work exactly the same. Only difference is that the ones in the transmission switch fluids, not electric circuits. Same principles, the wires go to the coil (85/86) and it the rest is like an On/Off switch (2 port) or A/B switch (3 port)
9 times out of 10, the Ground signal comes from the ECU/PCM and power is key-switched. The injectors & ignition coils work that way too. But if the PCM doesn't have a good solid ground, things get screwy and can jump around. But amongst everything, there is always a common denominator that ties all the symptoms together and it's usually the ground. Based on how the symptoms have jumped around, I'd suspect your PCM ground is in poor shape. Easy way to tell is by color. If the ring terminal for the ground is CYAN instead of shiny silver, replace it with a new one. Be sure to clean the sheetmetal around the bolt hole with sandpaper or a dremel with sanding drum untill you see bare shiny metal. Chances are that the bolt holding it to the body is covered or comprised of entirely rust too, so toss it in favor of a Stainless Steel one (M6x1.0 thread pitch if memory serves) Some Dielectric Grease (I use Harbor Freight's "Super Lube") on the terminal before you bolt it down will keep the corrosion off for the next decade.
"Copper Exposed is copper that corrodes"
On the 1997/1998 models, the PCM Ground is G101 (close to starter relay/solenoid on firewall) and the Trans Range Sensor's ground is G102 (next to Battery). G102 is shared with the underhood light and rear wiper as well. Doing all of this might not be the silver bullet you seek, but it does mean that anything tied to the PCM's ability to provide a ground signal to will not be the issue for an extremely long time.
Give me a minute to figure out how to send the FSM to you.
Maybe I jump the gun a bit but as the title says I am begging for help and sending past posts I've put up isnt gonna help me right now. Any actual help is more than welcomed and I would be ecstatic for it. I did what I was told way back tracing wires when the od off lightbwas flashing didn't find anything. And it wasn't that bad until recently. I scanned and got all the codes. Started elimination stuff one by one and now I am deadlocked. I searched around, ran down leads and when I thought the range sensor was the problem i changed it cause at the time that was the only tranny code I had. When the major cluster f@%$ hit I had range sensor codes plus all the others. Again research ensued and everything I read pointed to shift solenoid pack. Changed that and while I was in the tranny I replaced the other parts as well. And to no avail it still did not fix my problem. Unlike the other transmissions you mentioned the E4OD/4r100 does not have individual solenoids in the tranny they are in a pack. So replacing one or two is impossible. It would be awesome if I could. So I'm not just throwing money at the truck hoping to fix the problem. Now I'd be grateful for the Ford service manual and thank you for offering. I didn't make it outside to check the fuse or relay since my 3 year old fell asleep on head, now that he is awake I will be doing so now but I'm not sure how to check if the relay is good or bad.
#12
01-11-2016, 08:35 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK so this is where I'm at now. Tested the relay and it seems fine, couldn't tell if the fuse was blown so I swapped it regardless and drive went back to normal woohoo. No long stuck in 3rd gear not up shifts and down shifts on its own. But back to my original problem of the off light flashing on the OD button an the only code I have now is for the transmission range sensor. So I'm thinking I lucked out at advance auto and got a bad sensor. So tomorrow I will be taking it off and returning it. I appreciate all the help. I will be checking all my ground connections as soon as I get up in the morning. Again thanks.
#13
01-12-2016, 08:44 AM
#14
01-12-2016, 09:00 AM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New problems this morning. Took my kids to school, and blew the pcm fuse and console PowerPoint fuse. Threw two fuses in just to make it how and going to pull in my driveway and I blew powertrain control module, automatic transmission cms sensor which is what i replaced last night and got my tranny to shift out of third. Looks like I have a bare wire grounding out somewhere. Anyone know any common areas to start looking?
#15
01-12-2016, 09:06 AM
