hey folks, i just picked up a chassis from a '95 F150 -- the plan is to pull (and rebuild) the 5.8 as well as the tranny.

got it home, and started pulling stuff from engine after removing radiator/support and draining oil. (i'm lucky that there's no body!) removed alternator, air pump and junk, power steering. cut the downtubes after exhaust manifold (don't need).

this is my first time pulling an engine and i've got a few questions (hopefully answered by tomorrow, since i'm "borrowing" my parents' garage for the weekend):

1) how do i remove the fuel lines going up to motor from frame? (see photo). i pulled a clip, but don't see how it comes apart. i understand they may be under pressure, yes? how to proceed?



2) where do i unbolt the rear of the tranny -- there's a short "spacer" in front of the transfer case where i could remove bolts on either side (closer to tranny or closer to transfer case). will all the fluid come pouring out of either tranny, t-case, or both? (see photos)



any help would be super appreciated!


thanks.

 

also, forgot to mention the plan is to swap motor/tranny in to a '52 F3.

1) how can i tell if this tranny is a E4OD, AODE, or 4R70W (per wikipedia)?

2) are the automatic transmissions different in the 4x4 vs. the RWD? can i use this tranny in my RWD '52 with some kind of adapter for the tailshaft —> driveshaft instead of transfer case?

 

The fuel lines require a quick disconnect tool, you can get them for about $5 at the parts store. to check if the line has pressure ,find the schraeder valve..it will be on the fuel injector rail,it looks like a tire valve ,depress it and see if fuel comes out.

Take the bolts the arrow farthest to the back is pointing at.

You should be able to tell what trans you have by looking at the pan ,i'm pretty sure the pans should be shaped differently

I think the only real difference is the output shaft between a 2wd and 4wd. you have to disassemble the trans and swap it out for a 2wd tail as far as i know.

 

Generally when pulling an engine it works best to disconnect the trans from the engine (off to the left of your picture). Otherwise it's hard to snake the trans out from under the cab, plus you have a lot of weight swinging around. But since you are just dealing with the chassis you can get away with pulling them together.

The best answer is "no, you can't use a 4WD trans in a 2WD." Yes, you can completely disassemble the 4WD trans, get a tailshaft and tailshaft housing (plus probably some small parts like bearings and seals), and rebuild it into a 2WD trans. But odds are it'll be cheaper and easier to sell that trans and get a 2WD one to start with.

Another option is to keep the 4WD trans but also keep the transfer case. It's extra weight and drag, but it gives you low range which is nice for moving trailers around the yard. Or you can try to find the driveshaft brake from an F-Superduty. Those use a 4WD trans bolted to the driveshaft brake to run just a rear driveshaft.

 

can you elaborate? don't know anything about this...

 

first pulled engine in the books!

took waaaay longer than i thought it would (and i had it 'easy' since i'm working from a chassis... can't imagine trying to do this in a junkyard with the body still in place).

thanks for the help. decided to leave the tranny for now (supported by floor jack) and hopefully yank that tomorrow.

now i just have to wrestle the motor out of the back of the truck and try to mount on my new engine stand. any tips there?

 

Please delete

 

That transmission is an E4OD. You can tell by the ribs on the case.

 

Depends on your stand. Most have 4 arms. I did my 5.8 with just 2, but it is/was not centered on the pivot point & was top heavy as shown here. It would take 2 people to turn upright safely.

Use grade 5 or better bolts, preferably #8s

Good luck with your project.

 

all set to go... looking forward to tearing this down in the next several weeks!





quick question: what 5 speed manual trannys are available for the SBF? (and just to confirm, 302 and 351 are same bolt pattern, yes?)

 

Yes, 302 and 351W take the same bellhousing.

The Mazda 5 speed from the F-150s (and some F-250LDs) and the ZF5 from the F-250HDs & F-350s were the 5 speeds Ford used in these trucks. With more work others are possible too (I have an NV3550 behind the 302 in my Bronco).

 

thanks... i'm intrigued by this. so i'd be looking for a "parking brake assembly" from a >'98 F-450 or F-550?

guessing that doesn't come up too often on craigslist.

 

No, you want from a < '97 F-Superduty.

 

do i need to remove the injectors and fuel rails before pulling the lower intake manifold?

i've got it all stripped down and intake bolts/studs removed, but the manifold doesn't seem to want to budge. does it just need a good smack with a mallet, or do i need to remove injectors/rails?

 

Injectors don't hold the manifold at all. They can stay but they should be pulled and cleaned eventually. You can put a pry bar at the little square castings at the edge of the manifold where the injector bosses are and pry gently against the head. Just don't push it between the sealing faces. Or you can hit it with a rubber mallet from one end to the other till it loosens.